Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172 Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 I got a chip of wood out of my rifle stock. I am "fixin" to glue it back on the stock. Anybody got any suggestions on what kind of glue to use, epoxy, wood glue, super glue or what. Others have recommended devcon epoxy. Just thought I would ask the experts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizzly Dave Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 I keep my chips in a bag in the cupboard and eat them with dip, so sorry, can't help much. How big a chip are you talkin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J. Mark Flint #31954 LIFE Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 If the parts fit together very well then use wood glue. I am not being a smart ass. Clean the area with a damp cloth. Make sure the chip fits perfectly, apply a thin coat to the stock of an outdoor rated wood glue, press the chip firmly in place and this is the most important part . . . remove the chip . . . and then replace it, clamp it, and allow it to dry. Removing the chip will break any air bubbles trapped between the parts and allow the best possible joint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172 Posted June 7, 2011 Author Share Posted June 7, 2011 If the parts fit together very well then use wood glue. I am not being a smart ass. Clean the area with a damp cloth. Make sure the chip fits perfectly, apply a thin coat to the stock of an outdoor rated wood glue, press the chip firmly in place and this is the most important part . . . remove the chip . . . and then replace it, clamp it, and allow it to dry. Removing the chip will break any air bubbles trapped between the parts and allow the best possible joint. The chip is about the size of a quarter. It has the little tip that fits into the receiver. The two pieces match and I am thinking that perhaps wood glue is the answer. I have some carpenter's glue downstairs, but I was reading about the Gorilla wood glue. It is touted as being the strongest in the bunch. Thanks for the quick reply J Mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizzly Dave Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 I agree with J. Mark on the exterior rates wood glue, something like titebond III is what I'd use for a tight fitting repair like that. Regular gorilla glue will expand IIRC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Buckshot, SASS #2901 Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 Don't use gorilla glue!!!!!! It foams up and ozzes out of the joint and is very difficult to get off of finish. I work with about a half dozen differant glues all the time. Good quality wood glue the yellow stuff that as J Mark pointed out should be outdoor rated. My personal choice would be Tite Bond II. Ned Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickasaw Bill SASS #70001 Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 BMC J Mark told you the right way to do it . If you do not have a good tight fitting clamp , you can use black (electricans) tape to hold the chip in place , if you wrap it real tight . Let the glue set up for at least 18 hours while clamped , I will let them set for 24 to 36 hrs before I unclamp them . CB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizzly Dave Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 I've been trying to clean up my shop and am finding clamps I'd forgotten I had. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Utah Bob #35998 Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 Gorilla Glue is good for many things but this ain't one of em. Use the wood glue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Shoer 27979 Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 If the parts fit together very well then use wood glue. I am not being a smart ass. Clean the area with a damp cloth. Make sure the chip fits perfectly, apply a thin coat to the stock of an outdoor rated wood glue, press the chip firmly in place and this is the most important part . . . remove the chip . . . and then replace it, clamp it, and allow it to dry. Removing the chip will break any air bubbles trapped between the parts and allow the best possible joint. Do it this way although I will say I have always removed the piece I am gluing like Mark says never knew it was for air bubble, guess you learn something new everyday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172 Posted June 7, 2011 Author Share Posted June 7, 2011 Well, I used the Tite Bond II and rubber bands and wood pieces. I will let it set for 24 hours and see what I have. Thanks for your helpful instructions. Full report on job when it is complete. I did get a lot of ooze when I put the two pieces together. I removed the chip and then repositioned it. wiped up the ooze with a wet q tip and took the piece of wood and rubberband and made it fast. See the results in the morning. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Buckshot, SASS #2901 Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 Goog Job! Take a look at it in case it oozzez a little more! Ned Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172 Posted June 7, 2011 Author Share Posted June 7, 2011 Will do, Ned. Thanks Dang purdy piece of wood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boss Hoss Fly #63711 Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 Funny you shud ask! I just happen to have a Ithica I had to glue back togeather- CORSE IT HAPPENED IN SHIPPIN? Used Elmers Carpenter yella glue like i have for many years--Gotta clamp the peices sumhow tho to really be rite- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172 Posted June 7, 2011 Author Share Posted June 7, 2011 Funny you shud ask! I just happen to have a Ithica I had to glue back togeather- CORSE IT HAPPENED IN SHIPPIN? Used Elmers Carpenter yella glue like i have for many years--Gotta clamp the peices sumhow tho to really be rite- Park yer car on it. Thas what I did? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardpan Curmudgeon SASS #8967 Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 For future reference, consider using CA - Cyanoacrylate. This is the stuff RC aircraft modellers use to assemble wooden frames for radio-controlled flyin' machines. Readily available in all hobby shops. Comes in various thicknesses and setting rates - some as quick as a few seconds. Creates a bond stronger than the parent material, colorless, not readily affected by weather (most "white wood glues" are water soluble), and resists most oils. By the way, not to be confused with the supermarket "Krazy Glue." Not the same stuff... KG generally doesn't work well with wood. I've done a few stock repairs with CA that are pretty much invisible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172 Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 Well, I thank you all for your help. I just took the wraps off the project and it looks purdy dang good. Looks like I might have to touch it up with a file when it is really dry. Or perhaps some fine sandpaper. Got a small ridge line of less than a 1/64 inch. Going to let it dry and cure until tomorrow and then reassemble. Might just put another coat of wax on the wood, now that I got it apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boss Hoss Fly #63711 Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 Park yer car on it. Thas what I did? I only got a 3/4 ton truck--- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckshot Frank Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 Don't use gorilla glue!!!!!! It foams up and ozzes out of the joint and is very difficult to get off of finish. I work with about a half dozen differant glues all the time. Good quality wood glue the yellow stuff that as J Mark pointed out should be outdoor rated. My personal choice would be Tite Bond II. Ned I actually use gorilla glue to fix stock cracks because I know that it will expand to get deep into the crack. You just have to clamp it hard and let it dry before trying to clean it. Then use a razor blade to remove the excess glue. I wouldn't use it to fix a chip though. Regular wood glue would be better. Glue the chip in place and rub saw dust into the seems around the chip while the glue is wet. The saw dust and glue combo will fill in the cracks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172 Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 Well, I took a lookysee this morning and the piece seems to be tight and aside from the small ridge line that I will address later today, I am ready to reassemble. I will give a report on that later in the morning. Right now I have an important task. I need to sit and watch the rain fall with Captain Jack, and finish my morning cuppajoe. Dang that is goooood stuff this morning. I really appreciate your advice and help. Thanks again. A round on Badger's tab, Barkeep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172 Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 Well, the stock is mounted back on the rifle. Looks real good. I put some wax on the stock and it shines like a new aluminum dollar. I also mounted the scope on my new (to me) bolt action .22. All I need to do now is to disassemble the bolt and give it a good cleaning, reassemble and bore site the scope. Then send some fouling rounds down range. I'M GOOD TO GO. DRINKS FOR THE HOUSE. Put em on Grizz's tab. He said it was ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Old Man Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 I knew there had to be a catch to BMC settin up the house with drinks. Almost missed the fine print at the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J. Mark Flint #31954 LIFE Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 Cyanoacrylate sets up damn near instantly and on good clean wood it will make a nice strong bond. If you don't get it right though, a follow up repair becomes much more difficult. Also after repairing with CA a refinish of the wood may show the repair as the repaired area will not absorb stain. It works well enough, but I prefer the old tried and true methods. YMMV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172 Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 Cyanoacrylate sets up damn near instantly and on good clean wood it will make a nice strong bond. If you don't get it right though, a follow up repair becomes much more difficult. Also after repairing with CA a refinish of the wood may show the repair as the repaired area will not absorb stain. It works well enough, but I prefer the old tried and true methods. YMMV Your suggestion worked very well, thank you very much, Mr. Flint. That pesky ridge line never even came into play. A real nice piece of walnut and I did not want to have issues with it. Thanks again for your sage advice. What else did you expect GOM? Badger is a weasel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Okie Sawbones, SASS #77381 Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 I could have saved you a lot of trouble. You could have brought it to me and I would have knocked a silver dollar sized chunk out of it, then you wouldn't be worrying about the small chip. Hey, what are friends for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizzly Dave Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 Bout the only thing I use CA on is things on the lathe or really wild grain to stabilize them, but as J Mark said, there's no staining after that so do the whole things, polish and maybe wax is about all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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