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Slicking Up A TTN Hammered Coachgun


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I have been using a slicked up Stoeger Coach for some time now, but I went and made the leap to an exposed hammer TTN Coachgun.

Aside from the usual polishing out the chambers for easy "shucking the hulls", what else can be done to slick up the TTN.

 

I would imagine lightening up the hammers and the opening lever, but I don't want to mess something up. Can anyone recommend a source for instructions to do this work or a Smith that is familiar with the 1878 TTN.

 

Thanks in advance,

BWD

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While you are having the gunsmith work on a TTN, you will WANT to have the spurs dulled or removed from the top surface of the hammers. These fangs will shred your hands as you start trying to make the gun run fast.

 

And you will probably want a slight bit of "coning" done to the breech, to remove the sharp edges that make it slow to load rounds. Some folks really like almost a complete funnel that removes most of the ledge that provides headspace for a shotgun shell. I would rather just smooth the sharp edges and not take the chance of developing excessive headspace either right from the gunsmith, or a year down the road.

 

Some folks don't like the smooth steel buttplate. You can easily cover it with a butt cover that has roughed leather on the butt plate surface. Gun sticks to your shoulder for a faster reload.

 

And, as noted, lighten the hammer springs and the opening lever spring and hone moving parts in the action where they have rough surfaces that interfere with speedy operation.

 

If your thumb is short or weak, you are now allowed to have the opening lever bent a little bit to the left to gain slight speed advantage. The gunsmith will be able to find the rule in the new Shooters Handbook that specifies exactly how far the lever can be reshaped.

 

Good luck, GJ

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Mine did not need ary a thing. I did get rid of the slicers off the tops of the hammers. Man I love that gun. It will probably out-live me but just in case I've got another one still in the box, as I cannot bear the thought of being without one.

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I've been happy with mine right out of the box, but then again I'm not fast.

 

Do check the screws that hold the latch in the fore end now and then, they can work loose and cause the gun to fall apart when closing at a big match.

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When cleaning mine after a match this weekend, I found the nut that holds one of the hammers on had worked itself loose to the point that it was just hanging on by a thread. Literally.

 

Tightened it up and added a drop of nail polish to keep it on there. The other one seemed ok.

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When cleaning mine after a match this weekend, I found the nut that holds one of the hammers on had worked itself loose to the point that it was just hanging on by a thread. Literally.

 

Tightened it up and added a drop of nail polish to keep it on there. The other one seemed ok.

 

Those hammer nuts, AND the caps retaining the firing pins, both have to be checked on my TTN. But I don't pay a gunsmith to do that.

 

Good luck, GJ

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Current manufacture TTN/Cimarron hammer doubles have relatively light main springs out of the box. Along with a nice big Brass Doorknob at the end of the barres. I do not recommend "funneling" or "Coning" the breach of the barrels. DO REMOVE the tasty little meat slicers on the tops of the hammers. Cut the stock to fit and add a recoil pad. I DO recommend breaking the edge at the breach end of the barrels for a smoother reload. Polish the chambers.

That's about it.

 

Coffinmaker

 

PS: Hopefully Cimarron will get the container full of guns shipped from China before we all grow old (older??).

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