2 Wheeled Guncart C/G? - Pics added

[Wagon Box Willy]

Howdy Pards,

 

I'm going to through together a gun cart this week if time permits. Since I'm a newbie I plan on this being a simple version and after I'm in the sport a while I can design one that's right for me.

Here's a pic of a cart that I will base my design off of this Simple gun cart

 

I plan to have the base be a rectangular box, likely using cherry planed to 3/4x6 (got a thousand bf of the stuff) and using simple half blind dovetails for the joints. The box will likely extend beyond the wheels to the rear to accommodate another ammo style box. I'll make the boxes with finger joints to make them look authentic. I want removable boxes so that lifting it into the bed is easier.

 

So my question is where do you guys like the C/G or in this case pivot point on these two wheeled carts? Do you like all the weight in front of the wheels or say a 3:1 ratio for and aft? Which way makes it easier to push/pull?

 

I picked up some 12" plastic spoke w/bearing wheels from Walmart yesterday for 18 bucks each. I could also go grab two more and make it a 4 wheeled cart if that really makes more sense.

 

Thoughts?

 

Thanks

-Willy

[Buckshot Frank]

The cart that I built is similar to the one in the picture. It has a removeable ammo box up front and wheels all the way in the back. When the ammo box is full, the center of gravity is way forward which made it tough to move. I ended up modifying the handles from one like is shown in the picture (shopping cart style) to something more like plow handles. They give a lot more leverage to tilt the cart and also make it easier to control since your hands are wider. This also allowed me to add a small shelf between the handles to hold shotgun shells. Since you need to refill your shotgun belt after every stage, you don't want to have to bend down to get into the ammo box everytime. The plow handles also make convenient hanging hooks for gun belts, coolers, etc.

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

For your first attempt at a gun cart, it is best to try to copy something that you have seen work well. Center of Gravity needs to be well forward of the axle. The guns will be slightly tipped backwards, that's maybe 15 pounds very close to the axle, and that is an element lots of folks forget. They build a cart that tends to be marginally stable and can even be blown over toward the back of the cart.

 

Consider ease of picking it up to load in a truck bed (or how it will break down or fold if it will be carried in side a vehicle). Consider a storage box up at the top of the handle to hold small things you need all the time (one set of ammo boxes, eyes, ears, pen, loading strip, etc). A flat lid on that storage box allows you to work at filling your loading strip (or even cap a C&B revolver) while standing, not having to bend over your main box down low.

 

Make the leg at the front of the cart stout (one leg is better than 2). You will be sitting on the cart, maybe standing on it, slamming the front legs down onto the ground, etc. Make sure they won't snap off or into parts if you let the cart drop forward while still moving.

 

12 inch wheels are pretty small when pushing a 50 pound cart over rocky or uneven or muddy ground. 18 to 20 inchers are lots better. If you venture out into the West, solid rubber or foam filled tires are lots longer lasting than inflated ones.

 

4 wheel carts are usually more work to maneuver and end up heavier. Suggested only if you are a gadget-head who needs tons of gear with you.

 

Good luck, GJ

[August West, SASS #45079]

One of the saddest sights in CAS is a cart that's tipped over and spilled guns all over the ground. A forward CG is necessary for preventing said occurrence.

[Grizzly Dave]

Here are a few pictures of my cart.

 

pic one

 

pic two

 

I built it for 5 guns, but soon after went back and modified it so that the middle slot could hold a tube for an umbrella, very nice to have on hot summer days.

[Grizzly Dave]

oh, one other thing, mock up your design and test it before glue or screws to make sure your long guns are properly supported and you shotgun will rest open.

[Loophole LaRue, SASS #51438]

Willy:

 

After seeing quite a few heavy, wooden carts being slogged through sand and loose soil, I decided to start with a lighter weight cart. Not having welding equipment, I opted for a shortcut - a tubular welding cart from Northern Tools.

 

Added a low front box, divided to receive the butts of my Henry and shotgun, a cooler, and the end of an umbrella (removable as a unit by removing two wingnuts on the rear); a mahohany shelf about 1/2 way up on the front, to receive the barrels and the top of the unbrella pole; a mahogany shelf on the rear, at waist height, for ammo handling and gun work; and a swiveling box on the rear, below the shelf, for ammo (this was a metal tool tray, to which I added a mahogany lid.

 

The wheels and tires are big - about 20". Empty or full, the cart is stable on four feet below the box (part of the original cart), and swivels backward with the touch of a finger. It's the easiest moving cart I've ever seen, and very well balanced.

 

I'm content.

 

http://loophole.smugmug.com/Guncarts/SASS-Equipment/16029758_YHfDh#1202825504_9eAPB-M-LB

 

http://loophole.smugmug.com/Guncarts/SASS-Equipment/16029758_YHfDh#1202825499_VaDYc-S-LB

 

http://loophole.smugmug.com/Guncarts/SASS-Equipment/16029758_YHfDh#1202825522_N33NV-M-LB

 

http://loophole.smugmug.com/Guncarts/SASS-Equipment/16029758_YHfDh#1202825527_ZvYWC-S-LB

 

LL

[Butch McGie, SASS#71758]

My next cart will have 18 -20" solid wheels. Held on with a pin. U might consider using a single front leg instead of two - then it will sit without torqing the frame. U might consider using thinner wood - maybe resaw it to 1/4 or 3/8 - at most 1/2". U could make the box over lap the frame rather than sit inside it - giving more room to carry stuff.

Any weight u can save, u will appreciate later on. U can put the long guns about 1/2" apart in the rack and maybe carry 5 or 6 if u need to. Make a hole for a 1/4" brass squib rod, and something to fit an umbrella on. A cup holder is nice.

[Lone Dog, SASS #20401]

You do NOT want those front peg legs on it. Sooner or later they will detach no matter how or how well they are supposedly secured.

 

There are ways to build a cart without the front legs.

[The Shoer 27979]

You do NOT want those front peg legs on it. Sooner or later they will detach no matter how or how well they are supposedly secured.

 

There are ways to build a cart without the front legs.

 

 

Please enlighten us

[Adirondack Jack, SASS #53440]

Better ONE leg in front than two. Two wheels plus one leg is a three-legged stool, which is always stable, even when the ground is uneven. Make the axle as close to the back as possible (think of your cart like what it is, a glorified "hand truck", and keep the geometry more or less the same as a hand truck.) Ya want more or less neutral balance when tipped back to push or pull it.

 

Oh, the most important part of the design is the eraser on the pencil. Take away as much wood as ya can and still have it strong enough.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v54/adirondack_jack/IMG_0542_1.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v54/adirondack_jack/IMG_0540.jpg

 

Now this is fancier than it has to be, with the bucket for an ammo box/seat/cooler, but the reason for the pics is to demonstrate the open, airy, super lightweight "ladder" design, 1X3 nominal maple rails and poplar battons, done with biscuit joints. Note how wide the wheels are set and how narrow the four gun "chassis" is, (it won't tip over).....

[Smithy]

Lone Dog, SASS #20401, on 09 May 2011 - 05:24 PM, said:

You do NOT want those front peg legs on it. Sooner or later they will detach no matter how or how well they are supposedly secured.

 

There are ways to build a cart without the front legs.

 

 

 

Please enlighten us

 

Not quite sure what he meant or how, but my cart and the series of carts that it was spawned from are built without need for a front leg post(s). I think that it makes for a sturdier cart especially if you plan on using the main cart box also as a seat (because I weigh 250 +or-) and I alone could tear a cart up quick by sitting on it. The inventor of my cart has unfortunately passed away and his survivors don't plan on keeping the business up, but are selling existing inventory out till it's gone. Some businesses have bought chunks of inventory to sell. One such business is UniqueTek and they list the Little Sky here http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1295 You can see in the picture how the box comes right to the ground without a peg yet when tilted back the wheels take over at a very little tilt. On this design, the box is not removable but I'm sure that you folk could design a version where you could have a removable box very easily. Also, up by the handle is another smaller box. This is where I keep my shotgun ammo and a loading strip. Smithy.

[Jefro, SASS#69420]

Gatslinger has a simple plan.

http://www.gateslinger.com/guncart/guncart.htm

 

Also Rolan Kraps has some nice ones, you can download the plans for $6.25. I built the Ultra Light 3 Gun and a 5 gun version of the Rough Rider, also added a back tray on the Rough Rider. I like these plans cause they are easy to fold and load. I use fabric Igloo coolers for my ammo boxes to reduce weight and carry a folding chair. It's well worth it to go ahead and build the Rough Rider, plenty of room for guns and an umbrella. Good Luck

http://stores.lulu.com/Rolan_Kraps

 

 

Jefro Relax-Enjoy

[Griff]

Ahhh... the simple joys of a pair of large saddle bags: Nothing to assemble or disassemble to fit in the car; no "forest of carts" blocking access to the stage; carry everything right up to the loading table; no extraneous trips to & fro weaving amongst haphazardly parked carts (think Wal-Mart on those semi-monthly federal "paydays"); and... a huge plus, since you have a long gun in each hand, saddlebags slung over one shoulder, you just walk up to the loading table, politely say, "...excuse me, I've just got to set these down..." and cut in line!

[ChuteTheMall]

 

Now this is fancier than it has to be, with the bucket for an ammo box/seat/cooler....

 

 

My apologies, Jack, I thought that was a honey bucket.

 

Won't happen again, now that I know what those blue rooms are for.

 

[Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283]

Howdy Willy

 

A few comments.

 

Use the biggest wheels you can find. It's no fun when you are pushing a two wheeled cart and your wheels encounter an obstacle you didn't see, like a medium sized rock or a rut across the path. The wheel will stop dead and the cart will rotate to the upright position and then stop dead, and you will crash into it. Trust me on this. The bigger the wheels, the better they will negotiate uneven ground without stopping, and 12" is kind of small. My wheels are 16" and it happens to me all the time. Check out the Spoked Never Go Flat wheels halfway down the page at Mc Master Carr. Mine are the 16" ones with the zinc plated spokes. To tell you the truth if I was going to build my cart again, I would go with the 20" wheels.

 

Wheels

I used a 1/2" piece of aluminum rod across he cart as an axle. I put drilled a hole in each end for a cotter pin to keep the wheels on, and put great big flat washers between the cart and the wheels, so the wheels are not turning against the wood. The idea was I would pop the wheels off to store the cart, but in fact I never do. Anyway, don't cheap out on wheels, use the biggest ones you can find.

 

Regarding pushing or pulling, it is always easier to push a cart than to pull it. Pushing it you will find its natural balance point as you are pushing it, so you will not be supporting the weight of the cart. But if you reach an obstacle, well, you wind up crashing into the cart. Pulling the cart, this will not happen, you can drag the cart over any obstacle. But when you are pulling the cart it is tough to keep it at its natural balance point and you wind up carrying a lot of the weight yourself. I always push mine, except up steep hills.

 

It's nice to show off your wood working skills with a cart, all my joints are dovetailed. But more important, at least in This Cowboy's Humble Opinion, is the selection of wood regarding weight. I used to make my living as a woodworker, so I put a lot of effort into my cart. I chose white ash because it is one of my favorite woods, and not as expensive as some other hardwoods. It weighs about 10% less than oak, usually. Next cart I am going to build out of balsa wood, or pine, maybe poplar. Most hardwoods are just too darn heavy for a cart. After you put four guns, ammo, and other sundries into you cart, it starts getting real heavy. I have also seen some real nice carts made out of 1/2" baltic birch. They are nice and light weight. I would consider baltic birch if I was going to make another cart.

 

I know you are going to be shooting Black Powder, so you will want some extra storage space on your cart, for cleaning solutions, and rags, as well as other stuff you may need. I carry a full length cleaning rod on my cart, as well as various screw drivers, and a few other tools. I have driven a lot of squibs out of barrels of beginning reloaders with a set of brass rods and a ball pein hammer that I always keep in my cart.

 

Depending on how you transport your cart, you may or may not want to make it breakdown. I stuff my cart into the back seat of my Subaru, so the upper portion separates from the wheeled portion with some knurled screws and T nuts. I have two boxes that also lift off, one at the top for ammo and one at the bottom for all kinds of supplies, and to sit on. So basically my cart breaks down into four pieces.

 

One last thing. It's good to have a cart that carries four long guns. Two for you and maybe two for a friend. I remember a long time ago I saw some guys unloading a huge cart out of their truck. It must have carried ten long guns. I never saw that monster again.

 

P.S. A lot of us in these parts have rigged our carts for big garden umbrellas. Real nice on a hot, humid summer day, or to hide under on a rainy day. But beware, an umbrella will make the cart susceptible to tipping over on a breezy day if you are not watching it. Ask me how I know about this sometime.

[Wagon Box Willy]

So I'm still waitin' on the guns (awaiting a shipment from Italy) so the cart isn't finished.

 

It's real simple and should do me until I find out what I want. I got 20" wheels backordered from Northern Tool so the cart us just posed on those 12" ones.

 

New Gun Cart

 

I made the ammo box with some split wood so it would not look like a piece of furniture. I used some cherry planed down to 1/2" thick for the box.

 

Ammo Box

 

The cherry is very dry so it actually doesn't weigh much.

 

 

Willy

[Allie Mo, SASS No. 25217]

Please enlighten us

Hey Shoer,

 

One of the cutest gun carts I've seen had two horse shoes screwed to the front of the box and used as feet when the cart was upright.

 

Bet ya know where to get some.

 

Regards,

 

Allie Mo

[Allie Mo, SASS No. 25217]

Better ONE leg in front than two. Two wheels plus one leg is a three-legged stool, which is always stable, even when the ground is uneven. Make the axle as close to the back as possible (think of your cart like what it is, a glorified "hand truck", and keep the geometry more or less the same as a hand truck.) Ya want more or less neutral balance when tipped back to push or pull it.

 

Oh, the most important part of the design is the eraser on the pencil. Take away as much wood as ya can and still have it strong enough.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v54/adirondack_jack/IMG_0542_1.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v54/adirondack_jack/IMG_0540.jpg

 

Now this is fancier than it has to be, with the bucket for an ammo box/seat/cooler, but the reason for the pics is to demonstrate the open, airy, super lightweight "ladder" design, 1X3 nominal maple rails and poplar battons, done with biscuit joints. Note how wide the wheels are set and how narrow the four gun "chassis" is, (it won't tip over).....

AJ,

 

That is really neat!

 

Regards,

 

AM

[Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283]

Howdy Willy

 

Nice work. You might want to bread board that box lid so it doesn't warp the first time you shoot a match in the rain.

 

I see you are using some knurled knobs to connect the base to the top. Good feature. You also realized you only need two knobs. I used four, but these days I only actually use two of them. Live and learn.

 

I'll post some photos of my cart when I get a chance.

[Wagon Box Willy]

Howdy Willy

 

Nice work. You might want to bread board that box lid so it doesn't warp the first time you shoot a match in the rain.

 

Thanks, I was thinking of something simple like cleats on the top....similar to the Winchester ammo boxes

 

I see you are using some knurled knobs to connect the base to the top. Good feature. You also realized you only need two knobs. I used four, but these days I only actually use two of them. Live and learn.

 

Yea, those knobs are Rockler quick release style...I'm going to get some of the regular knobs as they're shorter.

 

I'll post some photos of my cart when I get a chance.

Lookin' forward to it.

 

I've been working so much these last 4 or 5 years I hadn't been in my workshop to do actual woodworking in like forever. Took me 2 hours to first, find the instructions, and then remember how to use my Leigh DT jig

 

-Willy

[Mean Matt McCord, SASS #24683]

Willy:

 

After seeing quite a few heavy, wooden carts being slogged through sand and loose soil, I decided to start with a lighter weight cart. Not having welding equipment, I opted for a shortcut - a tubular welding cart from Northern Tools.

 

Added a low front box, divided to receive the butts of my Henry and shotgun, a cooler, and the end of an umbrella (removable as a unit by removing two wingnuts on the rear); a mahohany shelf about 1/2 way up on the front, to receive the barrels and the top of the unbrella pole; a mahogany shelf on the rear, at waist height, for ammo handling and gun work; and a swiveling box on the rear, below the shelf, for ammo (this was a metal tool tray, to which I added a mahogany lid.

 

The wheels and tires are big - about 20". Empty or full, the cart is stable on four feet below the box (part of the original cart), and swivels backward with the touch of a finger. It's the easiest moving cart I've ever seen, and very well balanced.

 

I'm content.

 

http://loophole.smugmug.com/Guncarts/SASS-Equipment/16029758_YHfDh#1202825504_9eAPB-M-LB

 

http://loophole.smugmug.com/Guncarts/SASS-Equipment/16029758_YHfDh#1202825499_VaDYc-S-LB

 

http://loophole.smugmug.com/Guncarts/SASS-Equipment/16029758_YHfDh#1202825522_N33NV-M-LB

 

http://loophole.smugmug.com/Guncarts/SASS-Equipment/16029758_YHfDh#1202825527_ZvYWC-S-LB

 

LL

 

LL, we did the same thing. My pard Gunn Walker found a welding cart at a yard sale for $10. Not counting the ammo box on it, we have less than $40 tied up in the whole thing. Best idea he ever had.

[Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283]

Howdy Willy

 

As promised, here are a few photos of my cart.

 

The cart is made of 3/4" white ash. The two boxes are made from 1/2" white ash. Like I said earlier, if I wuz gonna make it again I would probably go with pine or baltic birch plywood to save on weight.

 

The white pipe in the middle of the cart is the bottom to the beach umbrella that I often use in summer for hot sunny days or rainy days. As I mentioned earlier, a lot of us use umbrellas like this in the summer, they come in very handy. The brass coat hooks are real handy for hanging my empties bag. Those are the 16" wheels, but like I said, if I wuz going to build a replacement today I would probably go with 20" wheels for the uneven ground. If you look carefully you can also see the full length cleaning rod.

 

cart

 

Saguaro Jack made up a whole lot of name plates for a bunch of us a few years ago. The clip on the back of the ammo box came from a cheap clipboard. It is great for keeping scenarios handy.

 

cart

 

My cart was a work in progress for a few years, with new features cobbled on as time went by. The reinforcement bar on front of the keeper bar was needed when I had to almost cut through the bar to make clearance for the umbrella. You can see the mount that I made up out of a piece of 3/4" baltic birch too.

 

front detail

 

I bought these brackets from McMaster Carr for attaching the rear ammo box to the cart. They make it real quick and simple to pop the box on when I am running late for the safety meeting, which happens a lot.

 

brackets

 

Here is a detail shot of the front box. The shallow tray sits inside on a couple of cleats glued to the inside of the box. This is the second or third front box I made for the cart, each one got bigger. This one is 14 1/4" wide X 9 1/4" deep X 13 1/4" tall. It is tall enough to make a comfortable seat, and has room for all kinds of stuff inside. I finished it with a bazillion coats of outdoor spar varnish.

 

front box detail

[Loophole LaRue, SASS #51438]

Looking at the photos of all of these great carts (clink, clink for all you masters of tools and craftsmanship!!!), it suddenly struck me why my cart rocks back into an easy to push attitude so readily. The axle (and hence the pivot point for the load)is NOT mounted below the cart - it's about 10" up the back of the cart. Instead of having to overcome the entire weight of the cart and load, half of the cart weight is a pendulum, and the other half is helping to pull backwards. If I was building a new cart, I'd try to find large diameter wheels and duplicate that arrangement....

 

LL

[Aunt Jen]

I like my center of gravity to be a few inches ahead of the axle when the cart is loaded with all guns and ammo, and also when it's empty, e.g., in all flight conditions.

 

I think it is more important it be stable and not fall over on uneven ground (for safety) than it is to trail so nicely when rolling, though that is important, too.

 

FWIW, I made my first cart, also, and it worked well for about ten years. Best part of that, was that I made it to fit in the back of my Camaro at the time, so building your own has perks.

 

Aunt Jen

 

Howdy Pards,

 

I'm going to through together a gun cart this week if time permits. Since I'm a newbie I plan on this being a simple version and after I'm in the sport a while I can design one that's right for me.

Here's a pic of a cart that I will base my design off of this Simple gun cart

 

I plan to have the base be a rectangular box, likely using cherry planed to 3/4x6 (got a thousand bf of the stuff) and using simple half blind dovetails for the joints. The box will likely extend beyond the wheels to the rear to accommodate another ammo style box. I'll make the boxes with finger joints to make them look authentic. I want removable boxes so that lifting it into the bed is easier.

 

So my question is where do you guys like the C/G or in this case pivot point on these two wheeled carts? Do you like all the weight in front of the wheels or say a 3:1 ratio for and aft? Which way makes it easier to push/pull?

 

I picked up some 12" plastic spoke w/bearing wheels from Walmart yesterday for 18 bucks each. I could also go grab two more and make it a 4 wheeled cart if that really makes more sense.

 

Thoughts?

 

Thanks

-Willy

[Wagon Box Willy]

Howdy Willy

 

As promised, here are a few photos of my cart. . . . . .

Howdy,

 

Thanks for the pics and the cart looks great. I will steal a few ideas from you ifin you don't mind. I cancelled my 20" plastic spoke wheels because they were backordered and pneumatic and instead ordered some 20" metal spoke wheels with solid tires which are unfortunately heavier but I didn't want to worry about flats. They arrive Tue next week so when I get back in town for the weekend I'll get them attached. Of course none of this is worth a dang without the guns so I gotta give Mr. Rezac a call next week to check on the status.

 

Again, thanks.

 

Willy

[Wagon Box Willy]

Howdy,

 

Pretty much finished the cart. I used 20" solid tire wheels which are a bit heavy but it all comes apart so I can load it into my truck easily.

 

Driftwood, was too lazy to modify the box top for breadboard ends so I just installed cleats on the bottom of it. If it warps I'll make a new breadboard end top.

 

Still don't have any long guns so the final few little finishing touches will have to wait till then.

 

Willy

 

Cart pic 2

 

Cart pic 3

[Oklahomabound]

Here are the pics of our 2 wheel gun cart:

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb162/Oklahomabound_phota/100_3062.jpg

 

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb162/Oklahomabound_phota/100_3060-1.jpg

 

...all joints are pinned so it can easily completely disassemble if needed...

[Gunner Gatlin, SASS 10274L]

Very nice Wagon Box Willy!!

 

GG ~

[Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283]

Willy

 

I'll bet with those big wheels and the raised axle that baby will be real easy to power over the ruts.

[Krazy Kajun]

Howdy,

 

Pretty much finished the cart. I used 20" solid tire wheels which are a bit heavy but it all comes apart so I can load it into my truck easily.

 

Driftwood, was too lazy to modify the box top for breadboard ends so I just installed cleats on the bottom of it. If it warps I'll make a new breadboard end top.

 

Still don't have any long guns so the final few little finishing touches will have to wait till then.

 

Willy

 

Cart pic 2

 

Cart pic 3

 

Looks good. I looked real close and saw those pocket screws. Man I gotta get me one of them pocket screw thingamabobs to make those joints, that looks great!! Good job.

[Wagon Box Willy]

Looks good. I looked real close and saw those pocket screws. Man I gotta get me one of them pocket screw thingamabobs to make those joints, that looks great!! Good job.

Thanks. I only used the pocket screws on those cross braces and to attach the frame bottom, the rest is either through dovetails or box joints.

 

The pocket screw joints are very fast, very strong and great especially if you build things out of sheet goods. I made a bunch of melamine shelving and storage units for my grandkids and they went together fast. I cut the pieces and made all the pockets at my house then loaded the cut panels and shelves into my truck to bring to their house and put the "kit" together there. I don't like to use them for "fine" furniture but for everything else they are pretty good and the kits are pretty inexpensive.

 

Willy

[Noz]

For those that say they are happy with their guncarts-I say poo and scoff in your general direction. Everyone I know has "improvements" they want to make and will start a new cart at the drop of a hat.

I'm on #4 and am just waiting for the urge to go to #5.

[Adirondack Jack, SASS #53440]

Thanks. I only used the pocket screws on those cross braces and to attach the frame bottom, the rest is either through dovetails or box joints.

 

The pocket screw joints are very fast, very strong and great especially if you build things out of sheet goods. I made a bunch of melamine shelving and storage units for my grandkids and they went together fast. I cut the pieces and made all the pockets at my house then loaded the cut panels and shelves into my truck to bring to their house and put the "kit" together there. I don't like to use them for "fine" furniture but for everything else they are pretty good and the kits are pretty inexpensive.

 

Willy

 

 

Lowes has a couple of KREG screw kits. They are the cat's meow for putting stuff together exactly where ya want it. A couple of clamps and a block of wood or two to hold stuff, drill and screw together, done and done.

[Blackey Cole]

As the post is fairly long I didn't read the whole thing but as one who built a cart that didn't work out I would recommend coping know good models. Once you get the frame built you can personalize the cart from there. The was a Georgia Cowboy that made several carts and had the plans on line for download until someone started selling his plans online somewhere. Look up the Cherokee Cowboys SASS club go to their website and see if the plans are still there. Somewhere I composed several plans for all types of carts including the ones mentioned above plus some others that I found on the web. If you do not find a plan for the type you want pm me and I will try and find those plan and send you a few to choose from.