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FeatherLite load on Mec


Buckshot Frank

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I'm getting ready to purchase equipment and components to be able to reload shotshells. I only have one match worth of FeatherLites left, so I figure that I have three weeks to get everything up and running. There are alot of Mec 600's available on ebay, but I might buy a new one; haven't quite decided yet. On one hand, a used one will likely work just as well as a new one. On the other hand, I will probably use the press the rest of my life so the extra cash for a new one will be insignificant in the long run. Anyways, whichever way I go (new or used), I will need to purchase a 7/8 oz shot bar and a new powder bushing. I already have a recipe for a Featherlite clone using Clays:

 

Win AA hull

Claybuster Lightning wad

7/8 oz shot

** gr of Clays

 

How accurate is the Mec bushing chart? I don't want to have to buy three different bushings and use trial and error until I find the correct one. Can someone that is using a similar recipe (using Clays) please confirm what powder bushing that they are using? If this violates the board's policy of posting specific load data, please PM me instead. Thanks.

 

Oh yeah- Are there any "must have" accessories for the Mec 600?

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I can't speak to the "must have" accessories, cuz I've only been reloading shotgun for a couple of months (on a old MEC 650), but the bushings I bought to replicate the Low Recoil/Low Noise WinLites measured out to be +/- .1 grn from the chart using the WinLite Powder. I checked them with my scales before loading the first round.

 

Of course, Clays is a bit more "flaky" than the WinLite powder, so you may have some variance there. The only reason I say that is I've had issues with it (and other "flaky" powders like Unique) in the past. Nothing to get upset over, but they meter differently than the finer stuff. In SG, however, even a +/- of .2 grns isn't going to blow up the SG....especially at light loads.

 

I normally use another powder in my pistols/rifle cartridges, but have had to use Clays in that capacity until my shipment arrives. In that powder measure, I get +/- .1 grns from my target load. YMMV.

 

Chick

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Frank, I have a MEC 600 for 12 ga black powder and a MEC Sizemaster for 20 ga. I bought both of them used and like the Sizemaster better. The sizing die is a collet that sizes the shell all the way to the base.

 

Both of mine came with an automatic primer feed but that might be an extra option. If you get a new one, make sure that you have the auto primer feed.

 

As far as the powder bushing, I'd go with the lighter load. If you are using one that's on the chart, it will work fine.

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No need to buy a new Mec 600 JR when lots of lightly used ones abound at estate sales and on eBay.

 

1) Mec's charts are usually pretty good. But, powder density varies a little by atmospheric conditions, and from lot to lot. If you assume you can get by with just one bushing, you are probably mistaken. Most loaders keep several bushings available to swap after they check weigh their load and find they don't get the desired weight. However, CAS shooting is not so precise nor at such a high pressure level that a little "slop" in the powder weight will affect you.

 

2) The BEST accessory for a Mec 600 JR is the adjustable powder and shot bar. I don't have to worry about bushings, I just use that adjusting bar. Gets me as close as I need to be to any shot or powder weight.

 

Next best accessory, if you shoot double barrels that don't always shuck fired shells easily, is a Mec collet type case head sizer (Super Sizer). Squeezes those brass case heads back down to minimum size to load and unload quickly and reliably. 97s don't need it, usually. The standard sizing ring on the 600's sizing/decapping die will resize the base a little, but the SuperSizer collet gets all the base and produces a smaller finished OD.

 

Next best accessory after that is a factory-crimp finishing die. I use one from an RCBS mini-grand press to slightly round the leading edge of the loaded, crimped shell. Mecs usually leave a very sharp edge to the front of the crimp. Factory shells are slightly rounded. This die puts the rounded edge on, for more reliable chambering of the shell.

 

Good luck, GJ

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Does the Mec Sizemaster press perform the same function as the Super Sizer, just on the press? If so, it sounds like a used Sizemaster might be a better deal than a new 600. I shoot a double, so this and the factory crimp are probably good features to have.

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IMO, A Universal Charge Bar is very handy. Been using it on two of my MEC. You can adjust your powder charge and shot charge, you're good to go. IMO, never used the bushings, too much of a hazzle. Don't want to have too many bushing just laying around and not being used. So I opted for the adjustable Universal Charge Bar.

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Does the Mec Sizemaster press perform the same function as the Super Sizer, just on the press? If so, it sounds like a used Sizemaster might be a better deal than a new 600. I shoot a double, so this and the factory crimp are probably good features to have.

Buckshot..

I bought the MEC sizemaster just for the very reasoning you are taking it into consideration.. It resizes the brass.. I also shoot a SxS

I (just like you're thinking) went ahead and bought a new one.. like you said.. will last me a lifetime..

The drop of the lead bushing from MEC has done fine...

The powder drop that was recommended.. didn't drop enough powder..

I'm a fanatic.. If I'm gonna remake Featherlites.. I want them to be Feahterlites..

I had to drill out the powder drop hole til I got the grains I wanted..

Wasn't a big deal... put a little bit bigger bit in my drill press... drilled down so far.. Measure the drop... I ended up drilling all the way through the bushing except for maybe the last 1/8".. Your mileage may vary..

Rance <_<

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Hey Buckshot,

I started w/ a Mec 600 jr before moving up to the MEC GRABBER! The 600 jr will serve you for many years. You may want to start w/the #26 powder bushing then work up as needed when using Clays and or Red Dot ( they shoot/meter real similar). I have a set of bushings that go up to #31 and that seems to cover all of my cowboy shotgun needs from knock downs to home protection!!

As for the MEC GRABBER, learning how to use it took a while for me but it finally took and loading w/ it is great

Please email me for more info!

 

Kindest regards,

 

CBA

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New MEC Jr's come with a #29, 30 & 32 bushing. I use a 30 for my light loads with Clays. The Sizemaster is the MEC single-stage to use if you are concerned about base sizing. I've never had any problems with bases (reload STS's).

 

I went from a Jr to a Grabber to a 9000 Hydraulic back to a JR when I stopped reloading for trap. The only problem machine was a used Grabber which was a big-big problem child (a real PIA). My recommendation is to always buy a new MEC progressive or have a used one reconditioned by MEC before using it. The Jr's are no problem as they are so simple.

 

If you ever decide to load real AA Featherlites, get the adjustible bar as they use funky measurements such as 26 grams of shot.

 

One final consideration, the powder charge depends upon which primer is used. The loading data provided by the powder manufacturer must be followed exactly.

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How accurate is the Mec bushing chart? I don't want to have to buy three different bushings and use trial and error until I find the correct one.

 

Howdy

 

You haven't been reloading for very long, have you? Let me get this straight, you are willing to spend the money on a new MEC, but you don't want to spend a few bucks on a few bushings?

 

I have been loading shotgun for a long time, on a couple of MEC Jrs, and a MEC 9000. One of the things you learn when you reload for a while is there is always some trial and error involved. The MEC bushing chart is reasonably accurate, but it is not exact. Not everybody will get the exact same powder charge out of the same bushing because how full the bushings get is partially dependent on how hard you throw the lever. Throwing the lever harder makes the press vibrate more, which allows the powder to pack more densely in the bushing. No matter what the bushing chart says, it is never exact. When I first started reloading shotgun a bazillion years ago, I put in the recommended bushing, then threw a few charges. Then I weighed them. Guess what?? The charge was not the same as what the chart said. I wound up using a bushing one size smaller (or larger, I don't really remember now), in order to get the charge I wanted.

 

You will always have to experiment a bit. Here's how it works. You look up your recipe, and it says to use XY hull with ABC wad and DEF primer with 13.7 grains of Whiz Bang for 7/8 ounces of shot. So you go to the handy dandy chart and you discover that one bushing says it will throw 13.5 grains of Whiz Bang and the next size will throw 13.9 grains. The bushings seldom throw the exact amount that you want. So right of the bat, you have to make a choice. So you try each bushing, and you discover low and behold that on your press, the way you operate it, one bushing actually throws 13.6 grains of Whiz Bang and the other one throws 14.0 grains. The practical shooter will select the bushing that actually throws 13.6 grains, because that is as close as he is going to get with standard bushings.

 

But you need to have a spread of them, so you can determine which one is going to work best for your needs.

 

In the photography world we used to call this bracketing. The light meter told you what the ideal setting was, but so you didn't have to make too many trips to the dark room, you shot one exposure one F stop under and another one F stop over what the light meter said. That way you covered your bases. Buying a few bushings covers your bases. What if you eventually discover, gee, I think I need a little bit more powder, these wimpy loads are not putting down the knockdowns. Or maybe you want to try a different powder. You will have a few bushings to try.

 

Spend the money, buy a few bushings. And be prepared to do a little bit of trial and error.

 

As for the MEC Jr and sizing, I never understand why folks say it does not size the brass. No, it does not have the same type of sizer that the more expensive presses use, but it still resizes the brass on every single hull when you pop out the primer. I have loaded shells on my MEC Jr for about a half dozen different shotguns, pumps, semi-autos, and SXS. I never had a problem with any of my MEC Jr shells not fitting in any of my shotguns.

 

The MEC Jr is a fine little machine. It is slow, but it cranks out fine ammo all by itself and does not need any extra dodads.

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The amount of powder dropped can change as the powder level in the hopper drops. The downward pressure changes as the weight of the powder pushing down changes. The charge can also change due to how hard you work the press due to the vibrations.

 

You can eliminate most of this by getting yourself one extra item.

 

MULTI-SCALE POWDER BAFFLE part # 087-PBIB

This item keeps the downward weight of the powder in the hopper from increasing the charge thrown.

 

Here's an image of one with pricing.

087-PBIB baffle

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As usual, Mister Johnson has hit the nail on the head. My Mec Jr. was bought for $20 at a gun show enough years ago that I've loaded about 2000 rounds on it since, and I only load shotshells during the winter. I use an adjustable charge bar for loading my Pyrodex loads for my double, and a fixed charge bar and bushing for the smokeless loads I've been loading for my son's 97. Buy cheap, get a few bushings that bracket the charge you think you want according to the MEC chart, then load a few and shoot 'em until you get the recoil you're after...

 

As far as sizing goes, the shells I load on my antique MEC Jr. drop right out of my double, no problem...

 

No need to buy new when there are so many of them a whole lot cheaper on eBay...

 

'Course you know what they say, opinions are like belly buttons, most folks have 'em, and you get what you pay for... :)

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Frank, As has already been stated, the Sizemaster does the same job as the Super Sizer. It just does it at the decapping station. The powder bushings are fairly cheap and available locally (At Bass Pro Shops and Gander Mountain) so you don't have to worry too much about getting the wrong one. I don't have one but the adjustable powder & shot bar sounds like a good investment.

 

By the way, our mutual friend, Arcadia Outlaw, loads on a Sizemaster.

 

With you loading for two, you will probably be looking for a progressive loader in a year or so anyway.

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Frank, As has already been stated, the Sizemaster does the same job as the Super Sizer. It just does it at the decapping station. The powder bushings are fairly cheap and available locally (At Bass Pro Shops and Gander Mountain) so you don't have to worry too much about getting the wrong one. I don't have one but the adjustable powder & shot bar sounds like a good investment.

 

By the way, our mutual friend, Arcadia Outlaw, loads on a Sizemaster.

 

With you loading for two, you will probably be looking for a progressive loader in a year or so anyway.

 

 

I think the sizemaster is fine even for two folks,unless your practicing alot,I use a #26 bushing,I would probaly get a 25,26,27 bushings,the machines come with three anyway.

 

 

regards AO

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I highly recommend the Multi-Scale charge bar and powder baffle. I use a MEC 600Jr and have not had extraction issues with my Stoeger. The extractors push the hulls beyond the point where the 600Jr does not resize the hull.

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There's absolutely nothing wrong with a MEC 600 Jr. press. Yes it indeed does resize the hulls, just uses a sizing ring instead of the collet, but will do just fine on reloading for a SXS or a 97. They don't come with a primer feed, so you have to add that.

 

The Sizemaster has the collet resizer, AND comes with a primer feed. This is arguably the finest single stage press on the market, at least in most peoples thinking.

 

If you are going to reload with the Winchester Superlite powder, then I will firmly discourage you from buying an adjustable bar. The standard MEC bar will do far better. Just buy a range of bushings for the powder you will be using, and you will be good to go. I also advise using a PC Powder Baffle on this press. The baffle will serve several purposes, but stopping powder migration out of the charge bar is very important when using any Ball Powder. The red plastic PC Powder Baffle will do this with the greatest of ease. They cost less than the one by Multi Charge and work far better.

 

Load rate on either press, assuming both have primer feeds, can easily reach about 8 boxes per hour, with a little practice. 6 boxes per hour is a snap. That's all the production you need for CAS shooting, even with 2 or 3 persons shooting.

 

RBK

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It did not look like anyone answered your question. The sizing sytem on the Sizemaster is the same set up as the Supersizer. It works very well.

 

The Mec charts are a guide only and you really need to weigh the powder on a scale. Be sure and weigh the charge with the same number of up and down motions on the press handle that you will be doing during the reloading cycle. It is not unusual for the powder drop on each shell to be the sixth or seventh time the handle has been since the last powder drop. This can cause a much different powder drop that if you just drop powder on every handle stroke like the Mec progressive machines. Years ago Hornady/Paciffic had different charts for their progressive machines and the single stage machines. I wish you luck in getting just the right drop in buying just one bushing.

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Howdy

 

Let me get this straight, you are willing to spend the money on a new MEC, but you don't want to spend a few bucks on a few bushings?

 

 

As sad as this may sound, that is about right. I don't mind spending money on nice things, but that $3 spent on an unused bushing will piss me off everytime I see it :).

 

I guess that I didn't figure that the powder charge for a light CAS shotgun load would be critical enough to need multiple bushings. It's not like I'll be running a ladder test to develop a load for a benchrest rifle. I just need it to throw some lead out of the barrel without beating my wife's shoulder up too much. I will probably break down and buy 2-3 bushings though, just in case. Either that or just buy the adjustable charge bar and be done with it.

 

I'm currently leaning towards the Sizemaster. The main reason being that the automatic primer feed and large shot bottle are accessories that I would likely add to the 600 anyways. The cost of those two items pretty much pay for the price difference between the 600 and the Sizemaster. The collet sizer, whether needed or not, is basically free.

 

Thanks for all of the advice guys. I think that I have enough info to get going. Now I just need to find a good source for cheap shot.

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Now I just need to find a good source for cheap shot.

Use the time machine at the top of the page. Set it for 1962 and go get some $5 a bag shot. Get me some too. :)

 

Cheapest is usually reclaimed trap range shot. Visit a local trap and skeet club and see what help they can be.

 

Good luck, GJ

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Update:

 

I ended up purchasing a used Mec Sizemaster on ebay. It comes with the #25, 26, and 27 bushings, so I should be good there. I'll just have to purchase a 7/8 charge bar and maybe some miscellaneous parts to freshen the press up. Are there any common wear parts that should be inspected/replaced?

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I'll share a tip about what I learned with my MEC. It is a Sizemaster but this issue could probably happen with a MEC, Jr. or other presses. Out of the box it worked fine. After a while, though, I started getting loads with a ridge around the middle. I had not changed any settings beforehand. I read the manual and starting making adjustments but then the crimp got out of whack.

 

I called a friend who had a MEC and after fiddling a bit I found the problem. The lock nut on the underside of the crimp depth adjustment had come loose and the setting started to "wander". If you are a new MEC user like I was, once you have the crimp is set right make sure the lock nut is snugged up tight.

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