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Um...how do you pull the cylinder out on a breaktop, such as an S&W-type?


Tucson Jim

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Title says it all really...on a typical late-19th-century breaktop like the S&W Schofield, how do you pull the cylinder?

 

I ask because I'm working on the 10 year anniversary update to the "Revolver Checkout" procedure, and I realized oops, I don't know squat about those critters :).

 

Thanks!

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Well, it depends on the model but, generally, you loosen/remove one or two screws that fasten the top part of the latch to the frame. On my Russian, there's a thumbscrew on top of the frame that needs to be removed.

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Howdy

 

It depends on what you mean by 'typical'. There were several different styles of latches used on S&W top breaks.

 

No screw needed to be removed on many breaktop Smiths. With the spring loaded latch typical of many of the later Smiths, there was a small nub protruding from the bottom of the latch that retained the cylinder, and there was an interrupted thread on the cylinder arbor. With this style you simply opened the latch and swung the barrel all the way down. Then you held the latch open against the spring with your thumb while rotating the cylinder counter-clockwise and gently putting upward force on it. Much simpler to do than it sounds. The cylinder would unscrew and come off the arbor.

 

Reverse the procedure to replace the cylinder.

 

The Safety Hammerless models (lemon squeezeers) had several different latch styles. With the early models you either held the barrel catch depressed, or pushed down on the front of the cylinder hook. The late models had the simple latch that you raised. Then you unscrewed the cylinder as previously described.

 

Can't help you with the Russians or Schofields, don't have one.

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On the Performance Center 2000 Scholfields, you remove the rear sight screws and slide out the rear sight. The cylinder will then slide off of the base pin/cylinder. I believe it is the same on the original Scholfields.

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OK. Well that gives me a good starting point - look for some kind of spring-loaded latch near the rear sight and/or rear latch assembly, and if you don't find it something may need to be unscrewed in that general area. Ask the gun's current owner :). But that at least narrows it down some. Thanks gents!

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look for some kind of spring-loaded latch near the rear sight and/or rear latch assembly, and if you don't find it something may need to be unscrewed in that general area.

 

Howdy Again

 

The latch I am talking about is the same latch that allows you to break the gun open. Very common on many S&W top breaks. I have an Iver Johnson that works the same way too.

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If its a schofield just take out the rear sight rear screw, loosen the rear sights front screw, the rear sight should pivot up and the cylinder should just slide out tho the rear, to put it back together just reverse directions. If you get stuck just pm me I have 2 schofields one original and one reproduction. here is a good web site http://www.gunreports.com/special_reports/handguns/Smith-Wesson-Schofield-Revolvers150-1.html

Rafe :FlagAm:

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If its a schofield just take out the rear sight rear screw, loosen the rear sights front screw, the rear sight should pivot up and the cylinder should just slide out tho the rear, to put it back together just reverse directions.

 

I initially did that on my PC2000 Schofield and it slightly bent the edge of the frame in front of the sight producing a sharp protrusion that I had to stone away. After that, I just completely remove the sight.

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Howdy

 

It depends on what you mean by 'typical'. There were several different styles of latches used on S&W top breaks.

 

No screw needed to be removed on many breaktop Smiths. With the spring loaded latch typical of many of the later Smiths, there was a small nub protruding from the bottom of the latch that retained the cylinder, and there was an interrupted thread on the cylinder arbor. With this style you simply opened the latch and swung the barrel all the way down. Then you held the latch open against the spring with your thumb while rotating the cylinder counter-clockwise and gently putting upward force on it. Much simpler to do than it sounds. The cylinder would unscrew and come off the arbor.

 

Reverse the procedure to replace the cylinder.

 

The Safety Hammerless models (lemon squeezeers) had several different latch styles. With the early models you either held the barrel catch depressed, or pushed down on the front of the cylinder hook. The late models had the simple latch that you raised. Then you unscrewed the cylinder as previously described.

 

Can't help you with the Russians or Schofields, don't have one.

My 4th model .38 works as Driftwood describes, except once the latch is raised all the way, it stays there until you snap it back down.

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