Three Foot Johnson Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 A decade back, I thought I liked 24" barrels, but over the years I've found I prefer the shorter tubes. So... I've got two 24" 1873 .44-40's - what's the most cost effective way of getting a pair of 20"ers? Sell 'em and buy 20"ers? Rebarrel? Pay to have the barrels & mag tubes cut? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokey Shayne Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 I was considering this same thing myself not long ago. After a little checking around, I found someone who would cut my barrel and reinstall the sights for around $100. I felt that would have been my best option, but then decided to change calibers, so that rifle was sold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabez Cowboy,SASS # 50129 Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 See if you can work out a trade ,,,,,,, Two pards up here did that and both are happy ...... It was deemed that one gun being in better condition was worth a case of beer "To Boot" ,,,,,,,,,, so,,,, the trade was made and all the pards sat around the fire and drank the beer .... Both Pards have been great friends ever since ,,,,,, and have started to share rides to several shoots ... Cut the Barrels ,,,,,,, I see I work too cheap !!! Jabez Cowboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fast Enuff Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 "Pay to have the barrels & mag tubes cut?" If you like the guns and they work exactly the way you want, absolutely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Woodrow Cahill, SASS # 54363 Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 I'd trim 'em down. By the time you figure in the cost of buying new ones, then doing any action work on them to get them smoothed out, you'd be deep in the hole. Barrel cutting isn't all that complicated. Even with a minimum of tools the home 'smith can do it in about 2 or 3 hours, and that's if you work slow and take coffee breaks. Makes for a good Saturday project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 I'd trim 'em down. By the time you figure in the cost of buying new ones, then doing any action work on them to get them smoothed out, you'd be deep in the hole. Barrel cutting isn't all that complicated. Even with a minimum of tools the home 'smith can do it in about 2 or 3 hours, and that's if you work slow and take coffee breaks. Makes for a good Saturday project. +1 A Bit more involved than a shotgun bobbing especially when it comes to the front sight dovetail (without a mill or access to one), but it can be done and as stated is a fun project with little chance for screw up. Other than cosmetics the main concern is the barrel crown and Brownells sells gear to dummy proof that stage of the operation for pretty cheap. Best of luck to you and happy short barrel shooting. Smithy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabez Cowboy,SASS # 50129 Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 A good Crown is very importantto the accuracy of a barrel .... Good luck if you choose to do it yourself ... Jabez Cowboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Three Foot Johnson Posted April 15, 2011 Author Share Posted April 15, 2011 Cutting the barrels and mag tubes presents no problem - I've taken machinist courses and worked in a machine shop for many years, but retired from that about ten years back. I've got a decent Jet lathe, brass jaws, tooling, etc., but I don't have a mill or a dovetail jig to re-cut the sight and mag tube dovetails. I've eyeballed them before on a couple of cheap rimfire rifles and they came out OK... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Woodrow Cahill, SASS # 54363 Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 Nothing to it J-Bar. Done it few myself, and it sounds like you've got 99% of everything you need. First barrel cut - no need to mention keeping everything square. Dovetails - It's helpful to first level the rifle in a vise, and periodically check the level of the cut to keep everything square. Two slots cut with a fine tooth hacksaw to a depth just shy of the height of the lug you'll be installing, set apart at the distance between the flats of the top of the lug. Using the edge of a file, remove the material between the slots. The only tool you'll probably need is a dovetail file to make the undercuts. It has a safe edge so you won't deepen the slot. Brownells and Midway both carry them. Make the undercuts, and every few passes check the fit of the lug. You'll know when it's right. Crown - a 1/2" abrasive ball in a hand cranked drill works just fine. Keep it well oiled, and make a few turns. A digital caliper is handy to make sure the chamfer is even all the way around. Take your time, measuring frequently. It's easy to stay within + or - .001" Brownells Oxpho Blue works best at touching up the shaved metal areas. I've redone a Sharps and an 1895 Marlin this way, as well as the barrel on a revolver. I have to say the accuracy of the Sharps improved over the factory crown job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cypress Sam, SASS #10915 Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 Beware! The "dovetail" for the magazine furrel is not a dovetail! It is cut on a radius so that when the magazine hanger (furrel) is put in place, it is rotated 90 degrees to line up with the bore. If you try to drive the magazine hanger out like it was a dovetail, you'll screw it up royally. You can cut off the barrel to 21 inches and leave the hanger in place, which is much easier. If you want a 20" barrel or shorter, it's best to have someone do it who knows how. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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