Red Rider Rudy Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 Howdy all, any one able to use this? could not get primers to seat? New to reloading. Have a lot of this from paper punching! R.R.R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Boy Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 Red, here's a post on another Board ... Not sure about the S&B 9x19 brass but I recently picked up some once-fired S&B 357 mag brass. I haven't shot the reloads yet but I had an issue with reloading them. The primer pocket opening was not chamfered at all. I ended up using a deburring tool to knock the sharp edge off. I had never had to do that with any type of brass before. Sort of a pain in the rear, but I'm low on 357 mag brass. http://smith-wessonforum.com/reloading/95512-sellier-bellot-9x19-brass-question.html Might want to measure the diameter of the primer pocket and the primer you plan to use - tight pocket or not Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOUTH-PACIFIC,SASS #59402 Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 i for military uset's been my knowledge that brass with crimped primer pockets was basicly for long term storage where a lot of movements might be envolved a swedge remover works ok haven't had any problems have a dillon swedger I>E. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Chief Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 Have used S%B for reloads in my 380 and have had no problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COAL CAR KID, SASS #15921 Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 I have noticed that their 45 ACP brass has tight primer pockets; takes a little more effort to seat, no real problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 I've hit a fair amount of S&B brass in .45 auto recently. It definitely has a very tight primer pocket. Also, they use a red primer sealer at the factory. So, when I spot that red sealer, I deprime, then use a primer pocket reamer/uniforming tool that cuts a fair amount of brass out of the pocket and puts the chamfer on the edge of the pocket. After that, S&B loads nicely. If I don't, about 50% of the time I cannot seat a Federal primer all the way down to flush without damaging the primer and using more than normal pressure on my Dillon 550 press. Good luck, GJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Rider Rudy Posted March 20, 2011 Author Share Posted March 20, 2011 Thanks everyone for the replys. That was the problume i was having the primer was be smashed before starting in to the pocket. This is .38 special brass. R.R.R. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackson Rose, SASS #45478 Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 Thanks everyone for the replys. That was the problume i was having the primer was be smashed before starting in to the pocket. This is .38 special brass. R.R.R. Hi Rudy, I had the same problem with tight primer pockets. A deburring tool did not help that much. A dillon pocket swager might be the ticket. If you figure it out let me know, I have a few hundred I'll give you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jefro, SASS#69420 Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 I threw away all my S&B brass, not worth the trouble. Jefro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deacon Will Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 I run them through my 1050 DILLON without problems. Yes they can be 'tight', but the 1050 handles them well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marauder SASS #13056 Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 S&B generally makes good stuff, bu with what is mentioned, I'm wondering if the shells were loaded with military spec's where they slightly crimp the primer pocket after sizing to better seal the loaded shell. Generally not necessary, but you know how the military (government) wants to go the extra mile. IF that is the case, a reamer may do it, but you are removing a fair amount of brass. The swager is the recommended solution. Once done, the brass should work well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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