Grizzly Dave Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 I've looked over Marauder's page, and the hobby gunsmiths pages on "tuning" a Baikal. I have a new USSG/Baikal 12 ga hammerless coming in later this week, and while I'm not sure I want to tackle doing everything to "tune" it myself, I would like to disable the auto safety. My question is, for those who have done it, is this a task that can be done easily by someone with no gunsmithing experience but a fair mechanical apptitude? I found the thread over on CAS city showing pics of how to disable a Stoeger auto safety, anyone have pics of doing a Baikal? Thanks Grizz edit to fix readability problems, my fingers don't always sync with my brain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 I've looked over Marauder's page, and the hobby gunsmiths pages on "tuning" a Baikal. I have a new USSG/Baikal 12 ga hammerless coming in later this week, and while I'm not sure I want to tackle doing everything to "tune" it myself, I would like to disable the auto safety. My question is, for those who have done it, is this a task that can be done easily by someone with no gunsmithing experience but a fair mechanical apptitude? I found the thread over on CAS city showing pics of how to disable a Stoeger auto safety, anyone have pics of doing a Baikal? Thanks Grizz edit to fix readability problems, my fingers don't always sync with my brain. Easy. You take off the butt stock, cut thru or remove the bar that runs between the safety engagement (slider) button and the opening lever mechanism. There will be lots of other work to be done on the Baikal to get it to "easy shooting" shape. I'd hand it off to a gunsmith from the get-go and get the cocking levers retimed, the hinge retimed, the opening lever spring lightened and if you like it that way the triggers swapped. Will save lots of futtsing around if you have never done these before. But, if you like the tinkering, it's a simple S/G to learn on. Cocking levers from Papa Dave help a lot the first time you do one. Nate Kiowa Jones is a pro on these. Several others can do them, too. Good luck, GJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizzly Dave Posted March 2, 2011 Author Share Posted March 2, 2011 Thanks GJ for the reply. I imagine I'll get it tuned by a smith sooner or later (as funds become available), or maybe even have a go at it myself. But I thought I'd like to shoot it a bit first, and the auto safety would be a royal pain. I just didn't want to get in over my head and have to take a box of parts to the 'smith How is the bar that auto engages the safety held in place? I'm sure it's obvious once I get in there, but since it won't be here until tomorrow at the earliest, all I can do is think on it right now. Thanks Grizz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 How is the bar that auto engages the safety held in place? I'm sure it's obvious once I get in there, but since it won't be here until tomorrow at the earliest, all I can do is think on it right now. Thanks Grizz Probably easier for you to look at it than for me to explain it without pictures or a parts diagram at hand. It's really a shame that the importer does not provide a good parts diagram and disassembly instructions on line for this gun. Good luck, GJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adirondack Jack, SASS #53440 Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 Thanks GJ for the reply. I imagine I'll get it tuned by a smith sooner or later (as funds become available), or maybe even have a go at it myself. But I thought I'd like to shoot it a bit first, and the auto safety would be a royal pain. I just didn't want to get in over my head and have to take a box of parts to the 'smith How is the bar that auto engages the safety held in place? I'm sure it's obvious once I get in there, but since it won't be here until tomorrow at the earliest, all I can do is think on it right now. Thanks Grizz Without looking, what I remember is there is a flat steel bar with a small round pin through it that operates the auto-safety. I didn't want to take things apart any more than needed, but I found I could snip off that round pin and leave the rest intact, and the auto safety could no longer engage. The manual safety is not altered in any way. All I had to do is take the lock out of the stock (there is a straight screw deep in the buttstock hole that will take a large screwdriver to reach and turn) to expose the mechanism. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colorado Coffinmaker Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 Plus, once open the gun will want to close about half way and make a reload a royal pain. After you open the gun and shuck the fired cases, push the opening lever to the LEFT and it will hold the barrels open. Coffinmaker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wyandot Jim Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 Call Gunslinger at 972-617-6511. He can make that ole double do a dance. I have been shooting one for about 4 years now. WJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wyandot Jim Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 Plus, once open the gun will want to close about half way and make a reload a royal pain. After you open the gun and shuck the fired cases, push the opening lever to the LEFT and it will hold the barrels open. Coffinmaker If ya let Gunslinger work on it it will not do that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunslinger SASS 10706 Life Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 Griz, dont remove the bar (connecting bar). That needs to be there to keep from damaging the locking bar. Cut and remove the small pin that the connecting bar pushes against. That will make the safety a manual only safety. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wyandot Jim Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 Griz, dont remove the bar (connecting bar). That needs to be there to keep from damaging the locking bar. Cut and remove the small pin that the connecting bar pushes against. That will make the safety a manual only safety. Hey Guntosser , I hope you don't mind me giving out your phone # I figure these guys need your help. Thanks, Wj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anvil Al #59168 Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 Griz, dont remove the bar (connecting bar). That needs to be there to keep from damaging the locking bar. Cut and remove the small pin that the connecting bar pushes against. That will make the safety a manual only safety. Yep. Once you see it. It is easy to take care of. Just cut the pin and make it a manual safety. Oh ya. +1 on Gunslingers work on these guns. He has done two for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizzly Dave Posted March 3, 2011 Author Share Posted March 3, 2011 cut the pin, got it. Thanks Gunslinger, and I will keep you in mind, just kinda cash poor right now and wanted a new toy even if it runs slow, I run slow too, so it won't be a major handicap Looks like my FFL will get it via UPS on Friday, so I should at least be able to play with it this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Null N. Void Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 The money spent on getting it tuned is well worth it. I've had 2 of these, and I love them, just not right out of the box. I went to my first shoot with the first, and it would not stay open and the safety was a pain. Needless to say, I had to hold it open to get the shells out and that was SLOW. It went to a cowboy gunsmith that day. When I got it back the next week, it was smooth, opened nicely and ejected fine! That was 3 years ago and it's functioned much better than the shooter! I've never had a problem with it, it's a tank! Buffalo Slim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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