Shanghi Jack, SASS #53763 Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 I am getting gear together to start shooting Wild Bunch matches. In my accumulation of gun stuff I have 2 WW1 era 1911 holsters. The best is the standard design and has some light mildew on the leather and green vertigriss around all the brass gromets and rivets. The other is of the swivel design and has lost much of the outside smooth finish on the leather leaving it with the feel and appearance of swade. What is the best way to clean the first and bring it up to usable condition and is the second worth messing with. Thanks in advance for your input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cypress Sam, SASS #10915 Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 Saddle Soap and Brasso Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tascosa, SASS# 24838 Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 Jack I have found that olive oil is great for use on any leather. I have used it on my holsters for more years that I care to state! My rifle scabbard is always getting soaked with horse sweat and olive oil has kept is soft and pliable and doesnt hurt the stitching. An OLD saddle maker told me about olive oil when I was a kid. Always worked for me. Hope this helps. Tascosa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Utah Bob #35998 Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 Pecard makes the best quality leather care products. Be careful of saddle soap as it tends to dry out the leather, FYI the original swivel patter holster you have is quite valuable to collectors. I've seen them fetch $200+. You might want to think about a repro from Pacific Canvas and Leather Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trailrider #896 Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Howdy, Pard, Fiebing's Glycerine Saddle Soap to get rid of the mildew. Use as little water as possible, just enough to make a lather. Then wipe off with a damp cloth, rather than washing off the lather. When dry, apply Lexol Leather Conditioner, but DO NOT overdo it! Use BrassO for the vertigris on the brass fittings. If the leather is extremely dry and cracking, you may not be able to bring it back! NEVER use plain Neat's Foot Oil on a holster or leather belt. It will soften it, but ultimately destroy the fibers of the leather! I've been using Lexol for over thirty years, and it works fine. Ride easy, but stay alert! Godspeed to those still in harm's way in the defense of Freedom everywhere! God Bless America! Your Pard, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tennessee Stud, SASS# 43634 Life Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Howdy, Pard, Fiebing's Glycerine Saddle Soap to get rid of the mildew. Use as little water as possible, just enough to make a lather. Then wipe off with a damp cloth, rather than washing off the lather. When dry, apply Lexol Leather Conditioner, but DO NOT overdo it! Use BrassO for the vertigris on the brass fittings. If the leather is extremely dry and cracking, you may not be able to bring it back! NEVER use plain Neat's Foot Oil on a holster or leather belt. It will soften it, but ultimately destroy the fibers of the leather! I've been using Lexol for over thirty years, and it works fine. Ride easy, but stay alert! Godspeed to those still in harm's way in the defense of Freedom everywhere! God Bless America! Your Pard, Hey Tailrider.... hehehe (just joshin')... I heard that "100% neatsfoot oil" is OK... but that "neatsfoot oil compound" contains ingredients that destroy the stitchin'... Hope somebody jumps in here that can confirm or clarify this for folks like me. ts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowhand Bob, 24229 Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 I use neats foot oil and can promise that many others do also. I do not have access to my computor currently but should stil have a few links to official sites, such as museums etc, which actually list current recommended methods for preserving historic leather. Not really what we would normally think but to some degree neatsfoot oil is and has been accepted as a part of their medicine kit forever. Understand that they are not trying to rejuvinate their items, just preserve them, you can not bring them back after they have crossed over! There are some who say never to neats foot and there are also some who say the same for olive oil, just remember that that most opinions were based on half truths and misuse stories. I have one old cap-n-ball pistol holster that I figure I made some +or- thirty years ago and its storage and treatment has, at times, been terrible but it still cleans up to look good. It was never treated with anything but neats foot oil and is none the worse it. The real trick is hinted at by Trailrider, be extremely sparing in the amount and frequency of use. You can leterally love your nice leather to death! I have been using Ballistol on my personal gear for at least ten years now and though I would never recommend it, I can see no difference between its use for maintenance and any other oil product. Something tells me that if I could use it for a hundred years or so I might would start recommending it??? Extremely lightapplications for good leather, with lots of life, but if the leather has dried to bad it can not be brought back to a usable state, thats where museum type care comes in to preserve it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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