Getting started with my new 1858 Remingtons

[J.J. Helms]

Good afternoon gents! I finally have my two new Pietta 1858 Remington New Army revolvers in hand. Upon recommendation of another wire member, I have purchased mineral spirits for the initial cleaning. This was after purchasing a can of carburetor cleaner per one of the CAS primers. I was told the carb cleaner may be too tough on the bluing and to forgo that option...sounds good to me!

 

I've already spent enough money to cause my wife's eye to twitch and don't want to go purchase a set of gunsmithing screw drivers to take these apart (per the CAS primer instructions). I'd also like to use the cleaning products I currently have on hand (excluding the recently purchased mineral spirits). Can I conduct the initial cleaning without taking the grips off? Here's what I envision as my 'process':

 

1. taking the cylinders out and wiping everything really good with a rag doused in mineral spirits

2. scrubbing the bores and interior of each powder/ball chamber with patches doused in mineral spirits

3. drying everything really good

4. administering RemOil (Remington's teflon oil product I keep around all the time) on the outside and T/C's bore butter on the inside of the bores

5. all while avoiding the grip areas

 

Will this work? Again, I want to do it right and without purchasing more stuff (Ballistol, screw drivers, etc.)...so I can purchase other stuff!

 

Thanks for your thoughts!

 

J.J.

[Prairie Dawg, SASS #50329]

Take the grips off--it's only one screw.

& you'll want to put a little oil where the main spring contacts the hammer anyway.

You might want to remove the nipples, put a little bore butter (or anti-sieze) on the threads, and put 'em back in.

Other than that yer plan sounds good.

If you take off the brass trigger guard, you can douse the internals with mineral spirits & then oil.

By the way, I use carb cleaner to clean the BP fouling out of my '92--hose it in the action & down the mag tube until it runs clear. Never had any bluing problems.

--Dawg

[J.J. Helms]

Thanks for your thoughts Dawg!

 

I don't have a nipple wrench...guess I need to buy/order one!?!?!? If so, I have a $25 gift card to Cabelas...do they sell one you recommend. Or, do you know a trick around getting a nipple wrench altogether?

 

J.J.

[Cpt Dan Blodgett, SASS #75655]

Thanks for your thoughts Dawg!

 

I don't have a nipple wrench...guess I need to buy/order one!?!?!? If so, I have a $25 gift card to Cabelas...do they sell one you recommend. Or, do you know a trick around getting a nipple wrench altogether?

 

J.J.

 

I just ordered one on line, make sure you get the one for the remingtons. There are those that recommend treso nipples, they will run about 35 - 36 per pistol. I second the recommendation for bore butter or some kind of anti seize compound on the nipples.

 

When I ordered the treso nipples ordered the nipple wrench did not want to pay separate shipping.

 

Some guns stores care some black powder accessories. You could look locally.

[Hossshuer SASS#51416]

Been awhile since I been on here, Those Remmy's is great guns! Hunted n' Used 'em for mounted shooting with R & D conversion cyl's for over a year a few years back. Never had problem with 'em. Wish I never sold 'em! Don't baby them , Just Shoot 'em, Lots of fun either BP or that new powder that dont got no smoke. Enjoy them!

[Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283]

Howdy

 

Any new gun that I intend to dedicate completely to Black Powder I take completely apart and douse everything with whatever strong organic solvent I have on hand. I usually use lacquer thinner, but mineral spirits or paint thinner works too. They will not hurt the blue. The idea is you want to bring the metal to bare metal, than replace the original oil with something that will lubricate and protect while still being compatible with Black Powder. I do the same with used guns that have been shot with Smokeless if I intend to dedicate them to Black Powder. Just took apart a 130 year old S&W and gave it my treatment.

 

You don't have to spend a lot of time with swabs and Q-Tips. I fill a small jar with lacquer thinner and dunk the cylinder right in, after first removing the nipples. I do take the gun completely apart this first time and dunk all the internal parts in the thinner too. Wipe out the bore with a patch soaked in thinner and wipe down all the surfaces of the gun. Then I set everything out to dry on paper towels. A good thinner like lacquer thinner will evaporate very quickly. While I am at it, I remove any obvious burrs that should not be there. You don't have to go that far if you don't want to. Dry out all surfaces possible, particularly the nooks and crannies inside the chambers. Use some canned air to blow everything out. Use a Q-tip to put a very light coat of BP compatible oil inside the chambers and coat the nipple threads too. First time you shoot the gun, fire caps on empty chambers to dry out any oil still in the chambers.

 

You don't have to take your Remmie completely apart if you don't want to, but it is only one screw to remove the grips, and one screw to remove the trigger guard. Once you have the trigger guard off you can squirt some thinner into the guts, allow it to drip out, then follow with a good dousing of a good BP compatible oil. You don't want to get any solvent like paint thinner or lacquer thinner on your grips, so be sure to remove them.

 

I dunno about the Rem oil, I dunno how compatible it is with Black Powder. That's why I always use Ballistol to lube all my BP guns. Buy some, it is worth it.

[Slowhand Bob, 24229]

There are many things in the bp world that I will not profess to know so will limit my comments to what I have seen or done personally. I have owned eight Pietta Remingtons and ten spare Pietta cap and ball cylinders without ever having one bad nipple in the bunch. I used them regularly for about three years and the nipples did not fail and still looked good when the guns were sold but note, each nipple was only firing one time per match.

 

The night before using the guns I would put a few of drops of alcohol in each chamber and allow to run out of the nipple. After this I would wet a pipe cleaner with the alcohol and run it in and out of each nipple a time or two and the next morning I would inspect each nipple against a light to make sure it was open before heading to the range. Since I was firing on so many nipples I would not do the pop a cap that many others do but I never had a cap problem.

 

Never used the Bore Butter stuff since Crisco always worked so good and the cost was more attuned to my billfold. Same for store bought wads, just powder, ball and a dollop of Crisco on top. I am a fan of Ballistol and use it regular like but do know that black powder shooters got by fer hunnerts of years without it so go figure yore own snake oil.

 

Not a lot of things designed to work with Colt nipples and cylinders will work with Remingtons, so beware most cappers and nipple wrenches. I think it is the Ted Cash standard straight line capper that comes closest but many even feel the need to tune them for the Remington. Sometime back a pard showed pictures on here of his home made Remington capper and it looked like a neat idea, just remember to use wood, bone, antler, etc as a cap setter after you get it in place. If you ask around you will find someone who can give you information on making a nipple wrench made from a small socket that is supposed to be stronger than anything on the market for the really tight Remington nipples??

[J.J. Helms]

Howdy

 

Any new gun that I intend to dedicate completely to Black Powder I take completely apart and douse everything with whatever strong organic solvent I have on hand. I usually use lacquer thinner, but mineral spirits or paint thinner works too. They will not hurt the blue. The idea is you want to bring the metal to bare metal, than replace the original oil with something that will lubricate and protect while still being compatible with Black Powder. I do the same with used guns that have been shot with Smokeless if I intend to dedicate them to Black Powder. Just took apart a 130 year old S&W and gave it my treatment.

 

You don't have to spend a lot of time with swabs and Q-Tips. I fill a small jar with lacquer thinner and dunk the cylinder right in, after first removing the nipples. I do take the gun completely apart this first time and dunk all the internal parts in the thinner too. Wipe out the bore with a patch soaked in thinner and wipe down all the surfaces of the gun. Then I set everything out to dry on paper towels. A good thinner like lacquer thinner will evaporate very quickly. While I am at it, I remove any obvious burrs that should not be there. You don't have to go that far if you don't want to. Dry out all surfaces possible, particularly the nooks and crannies inside the chambers. Use some canned air to blow everything out. Use a Q-tip to put a very light coat of BP compatible oil inside the chambers and coat the nipple threads too. First time you shoot the gun, fire caps on empty chambers to dry out any oil still in the chambers.

 

You don't have to take your Remmie completely apart if you don't want to, but it is only one screw to remove the grips, and one screw to remove the trigger guard. Once you have the trigger guard off you can squirt some thinner into the guts, allow it to drip out, then follow with a good dousing of a good BP compatible oil. You don't want to get any solvent like paint thinner or lacquer thinner on your grips, so be sure to remove them.

 

I dunno about the Rem oil, I dunno how compatible it is with Black Powder. That's why I always use Ballistol to lube all my BP guns. Buy some, it is worth it.

 

Thanks for the detailed directions, advice, and suggestions one and all! Any recommendations on where (online) to order Ballistol, treso nipples, and a Remington-compatible nipple wrench? So much for getting out of this without spending more money!

 

J.J.

[J.J. Helms]

Oh yeah, now that I'm likely to go on another spending spree sure to make my wife cringe...which is better? Kirst Konverters or R & D conversion cylinders...

 

I may look into these on down the road and am not interested in cutting out a loading gate, etc. Consequently, the price of the Kirst Konverters is far more appealing!

 

Thanks again all!

 

J.J.

[Prairie Dawg, SASS #50329]

JJ:

It takes only 3 seconds to pop the cylinder out of a Remmie for loading & unloading.

No real inconvenience.

IMHO, a loading gate for a remmie is not necessary.

Only a huge convenience for Colt conversions.

 

While the cylinder is out you can wipe off the cylinder face & forcing cone areas.

I've owned many R & D conversion cylinders over the years & all have dropped in & functioned fine.

 

I recommend the Ted Cash racheting nipple wrench & straight line capper.from the possible shop.

possible shop

Product #18-1124

 

Ted Cash in-line capper # 18--60

 

Many folks open up the nipple recesses on Remmies with a dremel tool.

Makes 'em much easier to cap.

 

If you want 100% reliable ignition, use Treso nipples and Remmington #10 caps.

Put the caps on & seat with a wooden dowel.

The possible shop carries Treso nips too.

--Dawg

[Smithy]

Oh yeah, now that I'm likely to go on another spending spree sure to make my wife cringe...which is better? Kirst Konverters or R & D conversion cylinders...

 

I may look into these on down the road and am not interested in cutting out a loading gate, etc. Consequently, the price of the Kirst Konverters is far more appealing!

 

When starting SASS I had two Old Armies that I wanted to turn into 45 LC so I looked at length into the Kirst vs. the R&D conversion cylinders. Relying on Buffalo Arms, Fall Creek Suttelry, and a couple other sources I quickly found that matching the same Kirst product with a similar R&D one that costs were about equal. If I went for a full conversion in the Kirst line then the costs rose rapidly whereas R&D basically only had one model.

 

The R&D cylinder (made by Howell Old West Conversions) has essentially two pieces; The cylinder, taper bored like a regular revolver with a single alignment pin and an ignition plate housing six firing pins. My cylinder did not have safety notches milled into that plate, but I later had one notch milled 180 degrees from the alignment pin. Later production may have the safety notches? To load/unload the cylinder is removed and plate pulled off, empty shells removed and fresh cartridges loaded returning the plate and then the cylinder to the gun. Very simple and straightforward. There have been concerns about soft firing pins, but there are sources for after market replacements of hardened steel. I've not ran into that as a problem with mine.

 

The Kirst cylinder closest to the R&D above also is a two part affair. From what I've read at their sites, the cylinder is straight bored as R&D was first and patented the means by which they bored their cylinders. That may/may not have an impact on what you plan on doing. Their ignition plate (rather than being round and rotating with the cylinder like the R&D) is basically round but has a flat base that mates up with the frame to prevent its rotation and thus stays stationary. Because of this, by design, it has only one firing pin. Upgraded models of the Kirst are basically the same, but also have a loading gate on the ignition plate and if you pay extra on top of the cost of the cylinder you can buy an ejector rod assembly to go with it.

 

Prices that I noted as I was writing this had the basic models going for around $275.00 a piece. The loading gate up'd it about 15 bucks and the loading lever (depending on model) was 100 to 150 bucks additional. Hope this helps a bit. Smithy.

[Slowhand Bob, 24229]

Spending is up to you, it is easy to let fokes talk one into boy toys though. If it is like the Remingtons I had you can almost shoot them out of the box with a few 'round the house' support items. The only cartridge cylinders I have experience with are the Kirst, I have had four of the older versions. My favorite is the non fluted solid back and with a little luck you can still find them around (there is a guy). The early one is actually as fast as the ported versions and the fact that you pull and replace the cylinder between each loading also prevents much of the fouling buildup. If a conversion was the only desire I would not recommend conversion cylinders due to their cost but for swapping between c&b and bp cartridge shooting it is almost like having two separate guns. I also find the Cowboy 45 Special to be the optimal black powder round for these guns. Eventually you can save the cost of brass in cost of bp savings. You can also just about save the extra cost of APP in what you save on specialty bullets with fancy grease and lubes.

[Hossshuer SASS#51416]

I have used both and prefer the R&D conversion 's as they are quick to change ( See Pale Rider movie w/ Clint Eastwood) and mainly they will not jam with high primers like The other's will. Also the firing pins are easy to pull and repair. Musta had over 5000 rounds thru them.... Just my 2 cents...

[Hossshuer SASS#51416]

Also check out the SCORRS.org website , lots of great stuff on there and all will work -cutting down barrels, loads, heck, I even used brass frame revolvers for shooting just blanks and they never went out of time (yet anyway)

[J.J. Helms]

Thanks for the information on the racket wrench Dawg! Have you tried the Kirst Konverters?

 

J.J.

[J.J. Helms]

Thanks for all the info everyone! I must be confused on the Kirst Konverters. I thought you can purchase either the drop-in cylinder (about $170), the loading gate, the loading gate/cylinder combo, and/or ejector setup. I must've mistakenly thought I could get away with the cylinder at that price versus the R & D conversion at about $240. Am I thinking correctly now?

 

Maybe I just need to become proficient with cap 'n' ball without worrying about conversion cylinders! Anybody out there totally committed to cap 'n' ball without the other bells and whistles?

 

J.J.

[Slowhand Bob, 24229]

Kirst came out with a plain drop in style assembly first and later started offering lots more options. Problem was that when he wanted to sell the most expensive gated recoil shields he stopped producing the plain flat unported drop in version. I figure that the machining cost for his latest gated style plate runs well over double, possibly well over triple, and somebody is going to pay for that new and improved version, whether they want it or not! His original solid plate was the model for simplicity with its single firing pin design and flat base for indexing but alas, Im sure it was embarrassingly cheap and simple to have made also.

[Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283]

Howdy

 

Yeah, I know a few guys who are totally committed to Cap & Ball. Personally, I started shooting C&B back in 1968 with a brass framed Navy. I have never gotten good enough with a C&B that I still don't have the occasional cap that fails to fire or one that breaks up and pieces fall down inside the gun and jam it up. As far as I'm concerned, that is to be expected with C&B. So for CAS is concerned, I have always been a cartridge guy.

 

When I started CAS about ten years ago I already owned a EuroArms Remmie that I had bought about 1975 or so. So when I found out about conversion cylinders I was real interested. I had paid for the gun so long ago that I don't really remember what it cost. R&D cylinders were $200 at the time. It was like I was buying a new gun for $200 because I had amortized the original gun purchase so long ago. At the time, Kirst was offering the five shot version of their cylinder, but to make it work you had to cut a loading slot into the frame. There is an obscure part of Federal Law that states that if you make a permanent change to the frame of a C&B revolver so it will accept cartridges, you have converted it from a C&B non-firearm to a cartridge firearm. You have in effect become a firearm manufacturer. There is nothing wrong with this, you can do it without a license, but you own the gun forever. You cannot legally sell it. But if you use a conversion cylinder that does not require altering the frame, every time you put the percussion cylinder back in, the gun reverts to being a non-firearm C&B in the eyes of the Federal govt. I did not want to mess with the frame, so I went the R&D route.

 

Here is a photo of one of my R&D cylinders. When I bought it, it would not accept 45 Schofield rounds, the rims are slightly too wide in diameter. It would only fire 45 Colt rounds. I had a smith open up the counterbores ever so slightly so that they would accept Schofield rims, and while he was at it I had him cut the 'viewing windows' so that I could see the brass and would know which chamber was empty. I am pretty sure that R&D cylinders will now accept 45 Schofield rounds, and that they do come with 'viewing windows' now.

 

 

R&D Cylinder

 

Here is my old Remmie with the R&D cylinder in place.

 

Remmie with R&D cylinder

 

I wanted to be able to shoot Schofields in my Remmie because the grip shape is a little bit different than a Colt, and a full charge of Black Powder in a 45 Colt case with a 250 grain bullet is uncomfortable when fired in my Remmie. A 45 Schofield round with a 200 grain bullet is much more comfortable for me.

 

Another thing you will probably discover about the 1858 Remington is they tend to bind up quickly when fired with Black Powder. It is because of the cylinder design. Same thing happens with a conversion cylinder. With the R&D cylinder, since I have to pop the cylinder out to reload every time anyway, I bring a damp cloth to the loading table and wipe down the front of the cylinder every time I reload it. Keeps my Remmies running for a whole match with no problems.

 

When it comes around to cleaning time, a cylinder bored through for cartridges is easier to clean than a percussion cylinder. I drop the R&D cylinder into a mug of my favorite BP water based cleaning solvent to soak the entire thing. Then I run a bore brush through the chambers just like any other cartridge revolver. A little bit of scrubbing with a bronze bristle brush and the cap is clean too. With a C&B cylinder you cannot run a bore brush through it because the holes don't go all the way through. You can poke the brush in, but it does not clean as effectively if you cannot run it through. Plus, there are more nooks and crannies in a C&B chamber to hold fouling than a straight bored cartridge chamber. Plus you have to take off the nipples, clean them without loosing them down the drain, and wipe the chambers clean of all the solvent before oiling the chambers very lightly. Then, like I said earlier, you have to fire some caps to dry out the oil when it comes time for loading powder. With a cartridge cylinder, I just leave a light coating of oil in the chambers. Don't have to worry about any oil contaminating any powder down inside a cartridge.

 

Oh, I still felt the lure of C&B all these years and last year I finally broke down and bought a pair of Pietta 1860 Colt Army replicas, because I have always thought they were so pretty. I took them to a couple of matches, but I still have problems with caps, and C&B cylinders have not gotten any easier to clean.

 

So I am still pretty much a cartridge guy in CAS.

 

P.S. You can buy Ballistol from Midway. As for what they used for hundreds of years before Ballistol was invented, I suspect it may have been whale oil. You can't buy whale oil anymore.

[Prairie Dawg, SASS #50329]

Current R & D conversion cylinders will chamber 45 Schofields and have the little viewing windows that allow you to see if the chamber has brass in it.

 

--Dawg

[Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283]

Current R & D conversion cylinders will chamber 45 Schofields and have the little viewing windows that allow you to see if the chamber has brass in it.

 

I'll let you in on a little secret. Before I took my cylinder to the smith to open up the counterbores, I made up a CAD drawing of what I wanted. After opening up the counterbore diameters, the remaining metal where the windows are now would have been so thin it would have almost been tinfoil. So I told him to go ahead and cut it through. I suspect that when R&D changed the counterbore diameter to accept Schofield rims, they made the same decision.

[J.J. Helms]

Howdy

 

P.S. You can buy Ballistol from Midway. As for what they used for hundreds of years before Ballistol was invented, I suspect it may have been whale oil. You can't buy whale oil anymore.

 

Driftwood:

 

Got lucky...my wonderful wife gave me an online gift card to Amazon for Valentine's Day. A quick search and whadda ya know? Ballistol! While disappointed whale oil is not available through Amazon, I will happily give Ballistol a try. Of course, you've done a pretty sound job of scaring me with the pitfalls of cleaning a dirty cap 'n' ball revolver. All just after reading from lots of other folks about how easy it is to do. Back to that numbing sense of fear again! I wonder if anyone's already taken the alias 'Petrified Clyde'?

 

J.J.

 

P.S. - lots of great info from you and many others...I really appreciate it!

[Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283]

Of course, you've done a pretty sound job of scaring me with the pitfalls of cleaning a dirty cap 'n' ball revolver.

 

Don't let me discourage you. What do I know? I'm just a confirmed cartridge guy.

[J.J. Helms]

Don't let me discourage you. What do I know? I'm just a confirmed cartridge guy.

 

Oh, I'm just joshin' a little. I'm not too sceered...just waitin' for time to do the job right. With little 'uns, time's the biggest factor to be considered. I ordered a Black Powder revolver cleaning kit through Cabela's before Christmas. This, coupled with Murphy's Mix, mineral spirits, Ballistol, and time should be all I need. I can save my pennies and purchase the R & D conversion cylinders if it turns out I, too, am a 'confirmed cartridge guy'. Which leads to another question...or two...

 

Would shooting R & D conversion cylinders in 45LC turn out to be cheaper than cap 'n' ball shooting? What about holding out and purchasing (well down the road, of course) 1858 Remmies in 38 spl? I know these are available through Taylor's from time to time.

 

J.J.

[Wolfgang, SASS #53480]

Hi thur J.J. Lots of good advise already posted fur ya. . .

 

Be Careful . . . having one '58 Remington is pretty safe . . . having a pair of them is not so safe . . .

 

 

 

 

 

. . . when yur not looking . . . .

 

 

 

 

 

they will get together and mate . . .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

soon you will find that you have more, and more, AND MORE . . and

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

EVEN MORE OF THEM.

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

Would shooting R & D conversion cylinders in 45LC turn out to be cheaper than cap 'n' ball shooting?

 

No major difference except in the cost to purchase and replace old brass periodically. Mild loads in .45 Colt cases will get you ten or more loadings before mouth or side of case splits. New brass runs about 12-15 cents apiece. So, you are amortizing that at about 1.2 to 1.5 cents per round fired. Powder costs are same, if you don't switch over to smokeless (cough, cough). Cartridge primers are a little cheaper than caps. If you shoot round balls in C&B, those are a little cheaper than 180 grain bullets for .45 Colt. So, costs even out. Time and gun reliability are the two main reasons why most folks consider cartridge over C&B. You have more "posse time" and more reliable guns on the firing line with cartridge conversion cylinders. But, if that is what concerns you, you will have even more time and reliability just shooting a cartridge gun than a percussion gun with a conversion cylinder.

 

Asking this question (cheaper shooting cost) this early in your path shows that you have not yet found the motivation factors that are most important to you. Time to do a little more soul searching, or maybe a little more visiting at the SASS matches and discovering your Cowboy karma.

 

Good luck, GJ

[Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283]

Asking this question (cheaper shooting cost) this early in your path shows that you have not yet found the motivation factors that are most important to you. Time to do a little more soul searching, or maybe a little more visiting at the SASS matches and discovering your Cowboy karma.

 

Yes Grasshopper, nobody shoots Black Powder because it is cheaper and it sure as heck is not easier than shooting Smokeless. Go to some matches, see what you like, then stick with it.

 

P.S. If you ever spring for those conversion cylinders, you can shoot smokeless in them if you want to do it the easy way. Just keep your loads down on the mild side with Cowboy loading data.

[J.J. Helms]

Thanks Wolfgang, Garrison Joe, and Driftwood Johnson for your thoughts and comments!

 

In part, my many questions can be attributed to my annoyingly inquisitive nature. Don't worry, my kids have the same 'ability' and I'm receiving sufficient payback for this character flaw. But, I agree I still am very early on in the process of 'finding my way'. I've always liked the looks of cap 'n' ball revolvers and am particularly fond of the 1858 Remington New Army. My appreciation for the revolver's look and feel only heightened when the first one arrived and I held it in my hand. I'm hoping the same magic is found through shooting the revolvers as they were intended. If not, I'll know soon enough and can try the conversion cylinders.

 

One thing is for sure at this moment...I like the looks of black powder revolvers, open top conversions, and the like far more than the 1873 SA revolvers. I don't know why exactly, but I do. I hope to be able to stick with this 'class' of firearms, have fun, and be semi-competitive. We'll see...

 

In the meantime, please keep feedin' my head with your wisdom, opinions, and anecdotes!

 

J.J.

[J.J. Helms]

 

EVEN MORE OF THEM.

 

Whoa! If I show my wife that pic, maybe she'll not think my recent firearms purchases to be as outrageous! Is there a 'Remington's Anonymous' located in your area of the country? Might be worth checking out...

 

J.J.

[J.J. Helms]

Time and gun reliability are the two main reasons why most folks consider cartridge over C&B. You have more "posse time" and more reliable guns on the firing line with cartridge conversion cylinders. But, if that is what concerns you, you will have even more time and reliability just shooting a cartridge gun than a percussion gun with a conversion cylinder.

 

Good luck, GJ

 

I really appreciate this statement (and the rest too)! It may have been Driftwood who mentioned loading several cylinders the night before a match using a Tower of Power press. I read about that idea somewhere and apologize if I'm crediting the wrong individual. Anyway, that could be a way to shoot C&B while maintaining posse time. It sounds like I'll find out soon enough. I haven't even been to my first match, so I have a lot to learn beyond just the firearms 'dynamics'. Thanks for your thoughts!

 

J.J.

[Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283]

Nope, it wuzn't me. All my C&B revolvers only have one cylinder each. I don't mind taking the extra time to load them at each stage, what I don't like is when they malfunction.

[Cpt Dan Blodgett, SASS #75655]

I really appreciate this statement (and the rest too)! It may have been Driftwood who mentioned loading several cylinders the night before a match using a Tower of Power press. I read about that idea somewhere and apologize if I'm crediting the wrong individual. Anyway, that could be a way to shoot C&B while maintaining posse time. It sounds like I'll find out soon enough. I haven't even been to my first match, so I have a lot to learn beyond just the firearms 'dynamics'. Thanks for your thoughts!

 

J.J.

That can get expensive really quick figure about 70 bucks per cylinder and an additional 35 -36 for the Tresos. I would recommend taking the time you need to load properly and don't lollygag around. Work extra had on posse duties on final stage of the day when you do not need to reload after you shoot.

[J.J. Helms]

Nope, it wuzn't me. All my C&B revolvers only have one cylinder each. I don't mind taking the extra time to load them at each stage, what I don't like is when they malfunction.

 

Oops...I've read so much on the wire and other places, my apologies for leading in the wrong direction. I see no problem taking the extra time you mentioned as well. I did, however, go ahead and purchase two extra cylinders along the way. Thought it couldn't hurt...

 

J.J.

[J.J. Helms]

That can get expensive really quick figure about 70 bucks per cylinder and an additional 35 -36 for the Tresos. I would recommend taking the time you need to load properly and don't lollygag around. Work extra had on posse duties on final stage of the day when you do not need to reload after you shoot.

 

Sounds like great advice to me. Thanks...I'll take it!

 

J.J.

[J.J. Helms]

Dawg & Driftwood:

 

You both (and possibly others) mentioned taking the nipples out for the initial cleaning of my Remmies. Even though I am home today and feeling quite lousy, I'd like to give these boys the first cleaning and get 'em ready for a little shooting. Unfortunately, I failed to order the recommended nipple wrench in time. Is there anything wrong with dunking cylinder + nipples into mineral spirits with the intentions of driving everything as thoroughly as possible afterward? I'm guessing this will be okay provided I oil sufficiently with Ballistol and pop a few caps on each nipple. I'm thinking I can shoot it the way it is for a bit until the wrench comes in and then redo the mineral spirits cleaning process at that time. Let me know...hope to hear from you soon...thanks again for all the help!

 

J.J.

[Slowhand Bob, 24229]

I am not normally a big do-it-yourself guy but there have been a few on the WIRE who chime in on their Remington inventions. This group seems to be sitting this one out but there are some neat little do-dads they have invented for the Remmys. Almost anyone can make a few of the small-to -medium gun screw driver bits from cheap WalMart bit sets. Two other neat ideas were the adaptation of of small socket to a nipple wrench and a nipple capping tool. I saw several posters talk about making the socket nipple wrench several years before a commercial version came out and cost could be zero if you happen to have the right size socket available. Another guy simply placed a small brass rod inside a primer pick-up tube to create an excellent tool for placing and seating each cap on the nipple and this is something you need to think about! I will not get into it here but there are several inherent dangers to capping revolver nipples so BE SURE you understand the process and the safe way to perform it without losing hand parts! I have also seen two home made cylinder loading presses that equaled or exceeded anything commercially made (though they were a bit large and heavy for portability). I always recommend looking to SCORRS or CAS City for some creative individuals with neat money saving ideas you might copy and look to SASS for those with knowledge on where to find/buy the nicest and most expensive toys available and I'm one of the latter.