Sagerider Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Any tips on removing oil that has seeped into a stock prior to starting sanding. At present, there is so much oil and grime in the neck end of the stock, sandpaper grip clogs immediaetly upon sanding. Did some initial oil and grime removal with lacquer thinner but far more is needed. Anyone ever soaked a stock in lacquer thinner or acetone for a reasonable period of time to aid in oil removal? Thanks in advance for the tips. Idaho Sagerider Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diego Kid #4631 Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Any tips on removing oil that has seeped into a stock prior to starting sanding. At present, there is so much oil and grime in the neck end of the stock, sandpaper grip clogs immediaetly upon sanding. Did some initial oil and grime removal with lacquer thinner but far more is needed. Anyone ever soaked a stock in lacquer thinner or acetone for a reasonable period of time to aid in oil removal? Thanks in advance for the tips. Idaho Sagerider Lacquer thinner works just fine....I do this for a living.....used it on numerous stocks of all types....use a container that can be sealed if possible to avoid the vapors and evaporation. Diego Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Bullweed Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Brownells has a powder that is designed to remove oil stains from wood, especially walnut. I do not remember the name of the product, but my gunsmith recommended it for a similar project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Whiting, or Calcium Carbonate CaCO3, is used to remove gun (petroleum) oils from oil-soaked wood before applying bedding. To use it, mix it into a paste with an organic solvent like Denatured alcohol (anhydrous), acetone, MEK (Methyl Ethel Ketone), Carb cleaner, Dry Gas, or Mineral Spirits. Put the paste on the affected areas and let dry. Warming the wood first with a light bulb or hair dryer will speed things up. Deeply oil soaked wood may require more than one application. If the first application turns deep brown, do another. Whiting paste will also remove wood finishing oils, and the solvent you mix with it may remove hard finishes as well, like Tung Oil, Polyurethane or epoxy, as is commonly used in commercial wood stocks. So, be careful with it. With petroleum and natural oils removed, the epoxy resin will adhere better to the wood stock and make for a better job. Just let the wood air-out first to evaporate the solvent before applying your epoxy. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1133/Product/OLD_FASHIONED_WHITING Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyrus Cassidy #45437 Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 ^^^I used Whitning mixed with Methyl Ethyl Ketone as Hedley suggested and it worked fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricochet Roy, SASS #71853 Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 All very good recommended tips. +1. Ricochet Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Any tips on removing oil that has seeped into a stock prior to starting sanding. Sagerider - If you are sanding to remove the old finish on the stock, you are removing wood! Try to avoid ANY sanding on a finished stock. Especially around the surfaces where you match wood to metal. Reducing the wood below the surface of the metal is a sure sign of an amateur job of stock refinishing. Use a solvent finish remover, such as CitriStrip, and minimal use of fine steel wool or fine nylon abrasive pads. Very fine sanding to dewhisker after you have removed existing finish you can get away with, but go lightly! Good luck, GJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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