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Re-timing the hinge on a SXS?


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OK.... I bought an almost new Stoger that works good, shoots good, locks up tight, but has the problem Nate is describing in this quote...

"Caution

A word of caution from Nate Kiowa Jones, a noted gunsmith on cowboy guns.

Changing or modifying the cockers or reducing the hammer springs so the gun will open wider/easier without retiming the hinge area can lead to the forarm hanger on the bottom of the barrels to be damaged on these SXS's. This is happening with the Stoegers and the Baikals. Some have had this hanger/lug crack and break off. I was shown a Baikal here recently that had the under-rib were the lug attaches, come un-soldered and was buckled, as well.

What happens when the cockers and/or reducing the hammer springs alone are done is, the hook tries to roll off the hinge pin forcing the fore-iron hard into the hanger/lug when the gun is slammed open. The heavy hammersprings dampen this effect.

 

To avoid these problems, the hinge area needs to be retimed so it will open wider but the hammers go to full cock later in the opening so that when they are at full cocked the gun will still be open enough to easily load. This gun can be made to open wide, stay open without having this problem but it is more involved than just reducing springs."....unquote.

 

What I'm seeing happen is that when ya watch the barrels open slowly, it's obvious that the forearm is getting stressed enough to move fore 'n aft at the end of the downward barrel-travel. So yeah, if this aint fixed, sooner or later either the dern hanger is going to break off the barrels, or the forearm metal is going to get ripped out of the wood.....or both.

My question is.....what means "retiming the hinge area"? The only hinge I see is the barrel attachment cross-pin that's pressed through the reciever, and beings how any fooling around with it would negatively effect lock-up, my common sense says that aint the part that Nate is talking about.

I'd call Nate and ask but what with his bad knee, being sick and staying so busy......I hate to bother the guy.

 

Help?

 

DGW

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I agree, Doc.

Thing is though, this one was "slicked up" by the previous owner's brother.....and we all know that the first thing most of these guys usualy do is start altering all the springs....hence the over-stressed forearm problem which Nate was talking about.

My particular shotgun aint been used enough to to have any damage done(yet), I just don't want it breaking later.

 

Thanks.

 

DGW

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Guest Cinch, SASS#29433

Dampen (cushion) the hinge by lengthening the cocking levers or add a coil to your spring length. You should be able to get the gun to open/cock easy without dropping to the forearm hanger. You will like the way it lights primers that way too...

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Dampen (cushion) the hinge by lengthening the cocking levers or add a coil to your spring length. You should be able to get the gun to open/cock easy without dropping to the forearm hanger. You will like the way it lights primers that way too...

 

Yeah, I hear ya....You're suggestion makes sense. Somewhere in my foggy brain, there was this little voice that was telling me that addressing the real problem is a better way to go about this anyway. Now, the trial 'n error of finding the right springs starts.

 

Thanks.

 

DGW

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Ok Cinch,I took your suggestion and ran with it. It was a bit of a proccess though, so just in case what I found may help someone else, I thought I'd post a follow-up here;

 

Looked over the Brownells' web site....nothing there.

Called Brownells...they refered me to Stoeger.

Called Stoeger....they refered me to Mann & Sons(800-357-2911).

The nice lady at Mann's knew exactly what (hammer)springs I need to put this thing back to spec. so's it quits crashing against the forearm hanger. She also says that Man & Sons usualy has every stinkin' part there is for these Stoeger coach guns. As a bonus, they do same-day shipping and take debit cards/credit cards over the phone. Wow, too easy, huh?

 

Thanks again for the help.

 

DGW

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