Bart Solo Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 I recently bought a Chinese 97 clone for Wild Bunch shooting. Pulling it up to my shoulder the stock seems long to me. The gun has a thick pad. I think it would shoulder fine without thick pad. It seems to me my alternatives are to replace the thick pad with a thin pad or a simple butt plate, or to cut off the stock about an inch and reinstall the current pad. What would you do to fit a 97 stock? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckshot Frank Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Remove the pad. Cut the stock to your desired length (factoring in the buttpad). You might want to cut at a slight angle, reducing the positive toe and making it point better for ground targets. Grind the pad to the new contour and reinstall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Widder, SASS #59054 Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Bart, On ALL my 97's, I've shortened the stock (cut it) to my preferred length with a thick pad attached. Well, I didn't actually do the work.....I had who knew what they were doing take care of it for me. ..........Widder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabez Cowboy,SASS # 50129 Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 With a SAW !!! Jabez Cowboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kulshan 20262 Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 With a SAW !!! Jabez Cowboy And a belt sander. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jefro, SASS#69420 Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 With a SAW !!! Jabez Cowboy Ta Daaaa!! Jefro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD Trampas, SASS # 55781 Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 I would remove the butt pad and see if that is the length you want, if it is, get a different butt pad or plate, I wouldn't go cutting it if you have never did it before, you could come up shorter than you want and then have to buy a new butt stock which aren't cheap, Brownells sell a lace up pad that you could check into after taking the butt pad off Just warning you, I would hate to have start sawing if you haven't did it before, you might have somebody in the club that is more experience and has did that, JMHO All for now JD Trampas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bart Solo Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 I have a saw and a belt sander. I think I will start by removing the pad. If that is enough I will buy a buttplate from Brownells (I think they are about 15 bucks.) If it is more I might just take a chance on using the saw. I haven't cut a stock before, but this is something I want to learn how to do. I only have about $300 in the gun and how much could a replacement stock be if I screw up. As to the need for a pad, I don't intend to shoot anything more than featherlites. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckshot Frank Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 I have a saw and a belt sander. I think I will start by removing the pad. If that is enough I will buy a buttplate from Brownells (I think they are about $15 bucks.) If it is more I might just take a chance on using the saw. I haven't cut a stock before, but this is something I want to learn how to do. I only have about $300 in the gun and how much could a replacement stock be if I screw up. As to the need for a pad, I don't intend to shoot anything more than featherlites. It is good that you have a belt sander, beacuse you will need it to reprofile the buttpad which is really the hardest part of the job. When you cut the stock, place masking tape around the stock where you will cut. Also start cutting on the bottom just enough to cut through the grain on the surface, then make your cut from the top. Both of these steps will help prevent chipping. There is a good video on Midway USA website on how to do this, but it really is pretty strightforward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Creeker, SASS #43022 Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 I have a saw and a belt sander. I think I will start by removing the pad. If that is enough I will buy a buttplate from Brownells (I think they are about 15 bucks.) If it is more I might just take a chance on using the saw. I haven't cut a stock before, but this is something I want to learn how to do. I only have about $300 in the gun and how much could a replacement stock be if I screw up. As to the need for a pad, I don't intend to shoot anything more than featherlites. Thank you - some would have you think that cutting wood is brain surgery. And like some said - you may want to change the angle a little bit , but as long as you follow the original design, you will be fine. Find the length you like - I don't run a pad, and I usually take about 1 to 1 1/2 inches off the length on my 97's. Mark your line - consistent with the existing length (i.e. if it is an inch shorter at the top, it is an inch shorter at the bottom). Use a sharp blade and cut that puppy. Sand the edges smooth, so it doesn't splinter on you later. And if it is ugly when you're done, a slip on cover or pad will cover up anything you did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabez Cowboy,SASS # 50129 Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Use 1 1/2 inch masking tape and place it so as to cut through the center of the tape ..... Two layers works best ... Jabez Cowboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madd Mike #8595 Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 I cut mine on my power miter box I change the degree the opposite (about 7 - 12 degrees ta be eggact) of what the factory does or make it a true 90 degrees it fits my body shape better, as I hold my long gun Stock real high (up to my face) I aint never seen a persons shoulder match the angel the factory but, mileage always varies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabez Cowboy,SASS # 50129 Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Madd Mike I lean mine even futher,,,,,,, comes from years of shooting Skeet and hunting ..... Jabez Cowboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madd Mike #8595 Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Madd Mike I lean mine even futher,,,,,,, comes from years of shooting Skeet and hunting ..... Jabez Cowboy usually when I tell folks that I do the opposite of the factory with my ----cut angle they then look at me like I was madd er sumthing yikes someone agrees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 I think I will start by removing the pad. If that is enough I will buy a buttplate from Brownells (I think they are about 15 bucks.) ... As to the need for a pad, I don't intend to shoot anything more than featherlites. Bart, if you buy something from Brownell's, I'd suggest it be a very thin rubber recoil pad, not a hard plastic butt-plate. Here's an example: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=26445/a...BASE_RECOIL_PAD Several reasons why: * the hard butt-plates are usually designed to have the pattern look right on a factory stock that has not been cut. As you cut a stock, the area of the butt shrinks (stocks taper) By the time you grind some hard butt-plates to match the stock profile, the pattern does not look very good. * hard butt-plates slide on the shoulder. I don't really care if the recoil gets reduced, but a thin, soft recoil pad "sticks" to your shoulder as you are reloading, helping keep the butt up on your shoulder. It's really much faster. * hard butt-plates slide on wood or metal surfaces; recoil pads don't. May be the difference between a MSV or not when you stage that shotgun vertically at a big match. Ouch. * hard plastic plates are prone to breaking when a gun lands butt first, something CAS guns may well do. Then you get the unpleasant job of finishing a match with a partial butt plate or having to pop screws out and shoot with no plate at all. So, I just get a 1/2 inch thick recoil pad that is a grind to fit design, with a light rib or basket-weave or stipple pattern - not a trap pad with hiking-boot type lugs on it. I like how that turns out much better. Good luck, GJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabez Cowboy,SASS # 50129 Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Mike ; Take a good look at the cut-angle on a fine british double rifle ....... I finished restocking a .470 nitro-express, switching it from left to right handed, and working up loads to regulate it for 80 yards .... The cut-angle matches my shotguns ....... The new stock wears a leather wrapped recoil pad .... Jabez Cowboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buck D. Law, SASS #62183 Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Video - Installing a Recoil Pad - Part 1 Video - Installing a Recoil Pad - Part 2 Here's a few more videos if you want to take a look. Here is the LimbSaver Grind-To-Fit recoil pad I use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckshot Frank Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 About the angle to cut, on my Stoeger I made the cut at a 90 degree angle to the comb. Since the comb drops down as it goes back, this gave me a nice negative toe and it was easy to cut. Even though I gave you the "proper" directions above, I just threw the stock on my power miter saw and hacked about 3/4" off . Like Creeker said, it's not brain surgery... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate Kiowa Jones #6765 Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 It seems the optimum length for what we do with these guns is not the crook of the elbow to the trigger method, That is a good method for skeet and other games where the gun is already mounted and you don't have to work the action. Doesn't work well for what we do. What I've found for both the rifle and the shotgun, and particularly for the ladies is the stock should be just long enough to allow the thumb of the trigger hand to be no closer than an 1" but not more than 3" from the shooters nose. Generally, if the stock is longer the crook of the elbow will be extended beyond 90%. This is very important for the ladies and youths because they generally don't have the upper body strength that men do. When you see that new shooter leaning way back struggling to hold the gun up that is usually the reason why, the stock is just too long. Also the stocks on most of the CAS SXS guns are designed for aerial targets. When you point them toward the ground like we do the positive toe of those stocks tends to dig into your shoulder when you fire. This will eventually cause the shooter to let the stock move down on shoulder which brings the front end up. Shot goes high. For the rifles it's not needed but for the shotguns bes I like cut them so the pad is about 5 degrees negative. That helps take some of the felt recoil away shooting at our ground targets plus it helps keep the gun to the shoulder went loading. Here’s a good example of how well it works for the Youths. This young lady was 11 years old when this picture was taken. This first pic is her with one of the youth size Henry 22’s and as you can see she is struggling to hold it up and could barely work the lever. LOUISANA STAR'S RIFLE Here she is with a 12ga Baikal SXS that is cut to about 10”LOP with a mercury recoil reducer and good pad at about 5 degrees. Her stance isn’t that great but she is definitely in more control of the gun. Notice the angle of the elbow. We eventually cut the Rifle stock for her, too. LOUISANA STAR'S Shotgun Here’s another example of the short 5 degree stock. All though it's not a SXS it works even better for this is the clone of the Winchester 1887 leveraction shotgun. The shortened stock helps with the 87 really long lever throw. STOCK VERSION BEFORE THE CUT AFTER THE CUT AND PAD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Windshadow Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 About 20 years ago I built a single shot 50-90 on a Martini action with Badger barrel and I used one of these http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=24689/P...STEEL_BUTTPLATE I checkered it inside the steel and I think in the end it was prettiest gun I ever built up; wish I had never sold it the plate I used was stunning in color case hardening as was the action and lever etc the barrel I browned.... but look at what the darn things sell for now in the white!!! Cheers Windy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lefty Wheeler Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Howdy: Pitch is as important as length. The net has many articles on this (http://www.shootingusa.com/PRO_TIPS/USAMU2-2/usamu2-2.html) like this one. You can experiment with washers to shim the top or bottom of your existing pad before you cut the stock and determine of you want the angle changed. You will get a better fit with the proper angle. And remember it is easier to take another 1/4" off than it is to add. Lefty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Woodrow Cahill, SASS # 54363 Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 I'm not a big fan of the soft rubber recoil pads. In my experience they grab and hang up on your clothes which can interfere with getting a good mount in a hurry. In dismounting it from your shoulder to reload they also pose the same problem. The grooved / stippled / checkered hard plates seem to work better in a speed game. I found one that was perfect in the odd parts bin of a vendor at a gun show for $1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 In dismounting it from your shoulder to reload they also pose the same problem. If you are taking the shotgun down off your shoulder to load, you are not as fast as you can be with your slowest gun of the match. GJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Woodrow Cahill, SASS # 54363 Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 I haven't yet mastered the Deuce method Joe. I'm of the "lower it, open it, shuck 'em and fumble" school of shotgunnery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate Kiowa Jones #6765 Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 I haven't yet mastered the Deuce method Joe. I'm of the "lower it, open it, shuck 'em and fumble" school of shotgunnery. Then you need to get that sticky rubber pad on it to help hold it to your shoulder while you load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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