Rev Lyin Kerrdawg SASS # 57116 Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 I just finished my Reloading & Leather shop out back. I did not have time to get the underground in before I had both knees replaced. I use a construction extension cord for lights & extras. What do you all use for heat in yours. I will probably use a dual air & heat unit when finished. But for now ??????????. I'm COLD. You got any safe recommendations. Something I haven't thought of maybe . Kat is afraid I will blow myself up. Only because she said it would cost to much to replace ME, you know carpenter, plumber,electrician,yardman, all around worker bee!!!!!!!!!!1. Rev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooky Joe, SASS #24061 Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 My shop is a small (10 x 10) shed with np windows. Cold weather I use an oil-filled electric radiator. Turn it on about 30-45 minutes before I go in. Keeps it warm enough in the mornings and evenings. Afternoons weather usually warm enough to use nothing. Have a small air-conditioner for warm weather use. Keeps it cool enough to use even in the mid-summer desert heat. Of course, living in the Sotheast Arizona desert helps a bit also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seldom Seen #16162 Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Before you go electric how big of circuit breaker do you have? I have a oil filled radiator which trips a 15A breaker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blastmaster Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Oh, you said safe... Well that leaves that idea out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LawMan Mark, SASS #57095L Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 My reloading room is a 12x12 room in one corner of my 28x44 shop. I have a breaker box in the main shop, running off of a 100 amp breaker in my house. I heat the reloading room with primarily a 120 volt electric heater. When temps are at freezing or above, that heater will get it toasty warm in the reloading room in about 10 minutes. If it's significantly below freezing, I have a Mr. Heater Buddy heater I can fire up for a few minutes to help knock the chill off. For cooling, I have a 5,000 BTU, 120 volt window air conditioner. I NEVER leave any heat unattended in my entire shop, and specifically not in the reloading room. If I leave, it gets turned off, unplugged, and shut down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowhand Bob, 24229 Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Rev, it is two separate rooms for me, the leather shop is in a 40x30 outside building that is divided into two 20x30 rooms and each has a two way 220v wall mounted heat/AC unit. Most of my work is done on one side and this division of space really helps with the power consumption. I actually anticipated this early on and insulated the interior divider wall. My reloading/gun room is simply a small 9x18 room that is serviced by a small wall mounted 110v combination AC/Dehumidifier and a separate small area heater. The electric heater is of the oil filled style that looks like the old time radiant heaters and was picked because several friends said these were the most efficient and safe type of small space heater???? I have had no complaints except for the time my dehumidifier kicked off and did not come back on in the gun room, amazing how much rust can form in a short time without protection! I now use the Golden Rods for backup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rippin kid Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 I have a wood stove but it is a long ways from the bench. My shop is 40' x 48' and the stove and bench are 40' apart. The gas in the old Farmalls leaks are more of a worry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adirondack Jack, SASS #53440 Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 When I put my 12X16 shop together, (Started with a wooden shed, insulated and sheet rocked, 1/4 of the space walled off, so 12X12 to heat) I tried a small propane furnace out of a travel trailer. It cost a durn fortune because the design is terribly inefficient. Sooooo, I thought real hard about wood heat. Most wood stoves are no durn good in such a small space because they require a lot of clearance around em and the surfaces get super durn hot. That woulda used up most of my shop in wasted space for a safety zone. Sooooo I figured out what I needed was a close clearance (low temp surfaces) stove, or more correctly, masonary heater, and I went about designing one. wood-fired heater It's little, the firebox only 8" wide, 12" tall, and 18" deep, giving the stove a 21X24" footprint, but with integral heat exchanger, and weighing about 1000 lbs (does not sit on the wood floor, it is on a slab under the floor and a couple of courses of solid blocks to bring it up to floor level. The floor is cut away with 1" clearance all around, covered by the leftover tiles from another job), the bricks soak up and give back a lot of heat over a long time. I reclaimed that walled off part of the shop, so I'm heating 12X16 area, about 14 hours a day, every day, and it uses about a cord ($200) of hardwood all winter, even here in NY. The sides and back never get so hot ya can't lay a hand on em, so stuff nearby is not in danger. The front does get HOT, but that's good, as it is the source of quick heat when ya first fire it up. The only metal in it is the door and hinges. The rest is firebrick lined red brick. Smokepipe goes out through a false chimney built into the stud wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 For a remote out building, and for temporary use until you can find better weather to do something permanent, I'd use a portable propane-fired catalytic heater and keep a window cracked open, as I would not run a steady 15 or 20 amp electric heater load on an extension cord. Cheaper and no tripping hazard either. Good luck, GJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mustang Gregg Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Wood-burning furnace. MG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oklahomabound Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Hey Rev! My shop is is 18' x 30', insulated; and my reloading equipment is along 6' or so of one wall. I use a 120v oil filled radiator type adjacent to my work space--no flame or glowing hot surface; and on the other end of the shop away from reloading area is the 240v electric heater. Next spring is the installation of the real heating and cooling equipment.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizzly Dave Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Right now I'm loading in my wood shop. When I built that I was worried about any sparks igniting sawdust. I have a sealed combustion chamber natural gas wall furnace. It works well to heat the 24 x 24 space. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeenriver SASS #38681 Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 My loading shed is 7&1/2 ft by 8 ft. Compact but room for me to do one job at a time. I heat it with a $15.00 small electric ceramic heater from Big Lots that's been heating it for 3 years now. Got a thermostat on it and is never turned off, just comes on when needed and runs on pennies a day. Actialy, I could probibly mostly heat it just from the overhead lightd in it, little building is brighter inside than a sunny day whwn the lits are on. I run if off the kid's electrisity so don't really care how much I use, and I like comfort. I can set on a bar stool and nearly reach everything in it, LOL. Greeenriver Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuckaroo #13080 Regulator Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Rev, I use my attached garage (24X24) as my workshop, reloading and my laser business. I use to use a kerosene heater but the odor was too much, and it was hot in the summer. My laser equipment recommends not using it when it is 90 or more. In the summer here that happens a lot. So, I had a small heat pump installed. It is the type that has an outdoor unit and inside it has a unit that hangs on the wall. Keeps the garage cool in summer and warm (not hot) in the winter. Has a remote control and is quiet as a mouse. There is no open flame so it is safe for any vapors I create. Roo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allie Mo, SASS No. 25217 Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Hi Rev, Hubby has a big shop. It would hold three cars if it had more doors and wasn't full of "important stuff." He heats it with a wood burning stove. The stove came out of the house we tore down. We've got lots of wood (never will need to buy any). That keeps it toasty and you can't beat the price of free wood. Regardsm Allie Mo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE CALHOUN COUNTY BA Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 My shop is a small (10 x 10) shed with np windows. Cold weather I use an oil-filled electric radiator. Turn it on about 30-45 minutes before I go in. Keeps it warm enough in the mornings and evenings. Afternoons weather usually warm enough to use nothing. Have a small air-conditioner for warm weather use. Keeps it cool enough to use even in the mid-summer desert heat. Of course, living in the Sotheast Arizona desert helps a bit also. + 1 CCBA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother King, SASS #69031 Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 I heat my 2 car garage with two of the Fostoria Infrared units suspended from the ceiling and plugged into a 30 amp box. They are instant heat. I have a parts cleaner, various and sundry solvents, etc. powder, primers etc. in the garage/shop and a full Harley mechanics shop. (I'm too cheap to pay the 'technicians' at the dealership) Here's the link: FOSTORIA INFRARED I'm sure that one would heat the space you need so fast that you'll be shocked. The good thing is that since they're instant heat you don't have to wait for the room to heat up. Just go load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Creek Sam, SASS# 78004 Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 I'm considering radiant floor heat when I build mine. Hot water pipes in the floor. Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerylKemp Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 howdy Rev my reloading room is a 10x10 with insulated floor,walls and ceiling I use a oil filled radiator in winter and a 5000btu window unit in summer the entire reloading room is ran on a 30 amp breaker from the breaker box in the barn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Quigley SASS #32802 Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 My reloading room is about 8' x 6' walled off section of my 24 x 24 garage and I use a little ceramic heater with a thermostat. Need to insulate it but have to many other projects ahead of it. AC might get put ahead of all the projects if this summer turns out as hot as last summer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col. Nathan C. Riddles, SASS # 7462 Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 My shop is a 14'x25' building, with two windows in the front & one in each end. There are none on the back wall. There is a small AC/Heater combo unit in the back wall about 6' above the floor, similar to those seen in some motel rooms. It keeps the building warm in the winter & cool in the summer. The building is a prefab building and the walls are insulated & paneled. It's also wired for phone & cable but I haven't hooked that up. I have a cordless phone out there & wireless intercom between the building & house so if my wife needs to talk to me she can w/o coming out to the shop. Watching TV while reloading can be extremely dangerous to your health. So no cable out there. The building is about 40' from the house so I took my lap top out there to see if the wifi would work. It does so I can even look up reloading data on the net if I need or want to. Just wish it had a bathroom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Bullweed Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 Load faster!!! A small electric heater would probably best safest. Do not have it on the loading table due to grounding issues. I load in a 5'x12' outdoor-accessed closet where the water heater is located. This room tends to be warm enough with me in it generating body heat on my single-stage presses. These gi-normous shops have got me jealous. Guess that I am not serious enough yet to build a Taj Ma-load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rev Lyin Kerrdawg SASS # 57116 Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share Posted January 20, 2011 Sorry guys, I hate to start a post & can't get back to be apart untill now. Work work work. Ok I have posted some pictures of my little Shop Buildings. My Loading & leather Shop is 18'x26'. Building with hitching post. It is insulated. Those were some great post on heating. I think I will pick up one of those radiator type for now. I have a 5000 btu a/c in the window. I'm going to run my U/G in a pipe on top of the ground for now. I have a 125 amp panel . I will hard wire the building this spring when I can get around better. I'm a Supervisor for the electric utility here in Ok. Was a Journeyman lineman for 30yrs utill I got hurt. Thanks for all the great info. ricks loading shop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rube Burrows Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 I thought about reloading in my storage shed but was worried about the adverse climate changes effecting the powder and such. So.......does it? I mean my workshop is a raised 16x20 building. Its not insulated yet....but will be one day. I would not heat and cool it at all times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rev Lyin Kerrdawg SASS # 57116 Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share Posted January 20, 2011 Rube, I keep all my powder & primers in the gun room in the house in different safes. I take out what I need & then put back. Rev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE CALHOUN COUNTY BA Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Sorry guys, I hate to start a post & can't get back to be apart untill now. Work work work. Ok I have posted some pictures of my little Shop Buildings. My Loading & leather Shop is 18'x26'. Building with hitching post. It is insulated. Those were some great post on heating. I think I will pick up one of those radiator type for now. I have a 5000 btu a/c in the window. I'm going to run my U/G in a pipe on top of the ground for now. I have a 125 amp panel . I will hard wire the building this spring when I can get around better. I'm a Supervisor for the electric utility here in Ok. Was a Journeyman lineman for 30yrs utill I got hurt. Thanks for all the great info. ricks loading shop Thats to neat and not cluttered up to be real! I have some powder 50 years old, Reloader #7 11 15 and 21 that has seen all kinds of temps and still goes bang and is real accurate. CCBA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rev Lyin Kerrdawg SASS # 57116 Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share Posted January 20, 2011 Calhoun County, Sorry,But I'm really really really OCD Rev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 My shop is 8' by 12', over insulated and only has two windows that are 2' by 2' so I don't loose much heat through them. I have a 50 amp supply to the shop. The weather is pretty mild so I've never really needed much additional heat, but when I do a small 15 amp electric heater is more than enough to do the job. Smithy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adirondack Jack, SASS #53440 Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Just a thought. Once upon a time, I had some work to do in a very cold, very lrge garage with maybe a 50 amp service. What I managed to do in order to provide TEMPORARY, SUFFICIENT heat for the actual work space I needed was to procure two small heaters, each 15 amps, and a couple of large appliance cardboard boxes. I used the boxes to create 4' high "walls", closing in the actual work space. The heaters and my tools and the motorcycle I was working on were inside the small space, helping limit the cold drafts from the rest of the building that come in to replace the heated air that rises close to the heaters. it helped immensely on the short run, even if it was a clunky, inconvenient way to go. I suggest ya do something like that or 50 amps of electric heat is not gonna cut it in that size a space, and will be darned expensive, and yer still gonna be cold. Better to heat a "nest" around your work bench...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adirondack Jack, SASS #53440 Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Calhoun County, Sorry,But I'm really really really OCD Rev Great little museum ya got there Me, I get all kinda good ideas on how my shop should look, then I get working on 6 or 8 projects at a time, bring home or save "treasures" etc, and pretty soon it looks like Fred Sandford's carport..... But it is MY mess, I know where everything is, and if it was all spiffy like your shop, I wouldn't feel at home Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rev Lyin Kerrdawg SASS # 57116 Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share Posted January 20, 2011 Jack thats a great Idea , By using an old canvas strung between the walls dividing the shop I could cut my heating area & keep more of it where I'm At. Thanks Rev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rio Brazos Kid Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 My shop is built across the end of my Garage. It's 10 X 24 feet, and fairly well insulated. I use an 8,000 BTU A/C unit in the summer, and a small 110 volt ceramic heater in the winter. I do use a propane heater, (17,000 BTU Coleman), to knock the chill off the shop initally, takes about 15 minutes. Then turn it off and the ceramic heater does the job from there. The ceramic heater has it's own blower, so it circulates the heat very well. RBK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G. P. Cobb Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Lowes: a couple of 2000 Watt heaters, you might be surprised they can run on 15A breaker; 220 is the key here. If the cememt isn't run, consider Peks(sp) pipe in the floor for heated. They say this is cheap and efficent. Good luck. p.s. you can just kick the baseboard 220 heaters against the studs and temp wire them hot, internal heat limiter; shut off at the breaker box when not in use, thermostate later. I wire mine with a single 14-2 wire per unit. If you need two then use the 12-2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adirondack Jack, SASS #53440 Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 It's gonna vary a LOT with how cold it is outside, do ya have snow on the roof or banked against the building, etc. Right now we got a good bit of snow on the roof and enough around the edges so no air moves under the wooden shop floor, there is no wind, and it's 28 degrees. I'm about to crack open a door, as the shop is too hot, even though the fire is about played out in the hot brick stove. Last week, before the last snow, it was -5 degrees and a 25 mph wind. I ran a hot fire until 2AM or later and my feet were cold, so I [put down a 1/2" dense foam mat to stand on..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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