GunClick Rick Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Is there a combination to it?Took them off my Uberti Dakotas,put them back on,same panels,seems like the hammers snag now.Screws to tight? Nice to have the wire runnin smooth Thank You! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Fill 'Em 67797 Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 If you had both guns apart at the same time, you may have put the gripframe on the wrong gun. If it's not that, loosen the screws a little, then see if the hammer cocks without binding. You may just need to shift the frame a little. Then tighten them back down. I like to tighten the screws evenly, give one a few turns, then go to another screw. If you tighten down one side tight first, it might be warping the frame a little, causing the hammer to rub the side of the gripframe. Also, the screws don't need to be as tight as you can get them, just snug them down good, don't put the gorilla hand to it. The mark of a good gunsmith is that, when you're done, the gun looks like it's never been touched. No scrapes or scratches, no boogered up screw heads. I'm still working on that myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowhand Bob, 24229 Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Rick, I have had this happen with several of my Ubertis and my first instinct was to blame it on the screw tension of the grip panels BUT. I do not think this can be the only answer as sometimes they have to be left with zero torque to fix the bind. If the grip frame was removed/loosened it may have also reseated a bit differently??? Sometimes a second disassembly/reassembly will fix it. As Doc said, this can show up really big time when grips and grip frames get swapped about. I have noticed that some of my Ubertis actually have the serial numbers, or last 3 digits, written inside grip panels and when they do not I put it there myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunClick Rick Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 Sounds logical,i'll redo and see what i get ,thanks fellers for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Bullweed Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 I start all five of the screws and then shift around to tighten them evenly. Also, the two screws on the bottom/back of the triggerguard are usually different lengths one my Uberti's. Make sure to put the long one in the correct place. The longer screw on mine adds tension to the loading gate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brasspounder, SASS #9076 Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 When taking any gun apart, it is a good idea to make sure all the screws go back in the exact location they came from. I made a small wood block for my single action Colt-style revolvers. I put blind holes in it to hold the screws as follows as they are removed from the revolver: Backstrap left backstrap right backstrap bottom (now the backstrap and grips can be taken off) Mainspring (set the mainstpring aside) trigger guard left trigger guard right trigger guard front (trigger guard can be removed) bolt/trigger spring trigger screw (remove trigger) bolt screw (remove bolt) Hammer screw (now the hammer and the hand can be removed) The bolt/trigger spring can be put under it's screw in the block as can the trigger proper and the bolt to keep track of these items. Then on re-assembly, the screws and these parts can be returned to the frame in the same and proper order as they were removed. Also, the block keeps the little buggers from rolling off the table and getting lost on the floor. I hate to crawl around with a flashlight looking for small lost parts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.