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Problem w/ new '73- Help!


Buckshot Frank

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OK- I just got my new Uberti 1873 carbine (stock, no mods) home and began to play with it. I tried running some Azoom snap caps throught it (both .357 and .38) and it will not eject properly. The extractor pulls the case out of the chamber, the bolt returns all the way back, then the elevator comes up. The case tilts up but gets stuck between the elevator and extractor. The extractor won't release the rim of the case, and the elevator won't go up anymore. This is my first lever action rifle, so I'm not sure what the problem is. Is this a common problem, or do I just have to cycle it harder? I haven't really yanked on it because I don't want to break anything. Any suggestions?

 

Here's a picture of what is happening in case that I didn't describe the issue well: http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y273/ruotolof/DSCF0050.jpg

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Two things come to mind.

 

1. The elevator is the ejector. After the case is extracted, the elevator hits the case to pop it up and out.

 

2. The plastic snap caps may be to soft and the extractor is digging in to the plastic.

 

Try making up a few dummy rounds with your brass.

 

Or try putting one spent case in through the top in to the chamber. Close the action and let the hammer down. Now lever the rifle and see if it extracts and pops off the receiver.

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1. The elevator is the ejector. After the case is extracted, the elevator hits the case to pop it up and out.

This is what lead me to believe that I'm just not working it hard enough for the elevator to slam the case off of the extractor. I'm worried about breaking something though.

 

2. The plastic snap caps may be to soft and the extractor is digging in to the plastic.

The snap caps are actually aluminum.

 

Try making up a few dummy rounds with your brass.

I thought about trying this, but I don't have any bullets yet, just brass.

 

Or try putting one spent case in through the top in to the chamber. Close the action and let the hammer down. Now lever the rifle and see if it extracts and pops off the receiver.

Tried this one. It will actually ejects the brass sometimes. I thought that the problem was related to the snap caps until I got a piece of brass stuck too.

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Next item to understand and check.

 

Look at your brass. The extraction groove at the base is not the same on all brass.

Winchester seems to have the thinnest and shallowest groove.

Starline seems to have the widest and deepest groove.

 

Starline allows more extractor grip on the brass.

 

And throwing the lever a little harder will help.

 

Keep the rifle level...not tilted to one side to the other.

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Hang in there Frank. The bad part about Uberti’s is they aren’t the most consistent guns around and you can have issues even with new ones……the good part is there is a TON of folks that know them inside and out and it’s probably a minor issue so do get to upset….yet. Unfortunately I’m a shade tree gunsmith and I have to look it over first hand to see the problem but there are folks here that will be able to help you for sure…..just be patient and keep checking the thread. I know this isn’t want you want to hear but worse case take it to a match and there will probably be 5 people there that can fix it for you. Don’t get discouraged it’s probably something very minor.

 

TTT for the new shooter

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Buckshot,

 

With the bolt all the way back but the brass carrier still down slip an empty brass case into the chamber and close the action. Work the action vigorously.

 

If the problem goes away it could be the snap caps have slightly over sized rims.

 

If the problem persists look where the case rim contacts the brass carrier when it "locks up" and clearance this area of the carrier. It will probably be on the back side of the curve that transitions from the lower level to the upper level. While you are there knock off the back corner of this higher level at the inner most point. This will allow you to load one "over the top" at speed if necessary.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Smoke

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Friend I don't want to dishartin ye but a 73 from Italy that hasn't been to a CB gunsmith 40% of tha time will not function. If it wasn't that it wuld be sumptin else.

 

 

RRR

 

 

I disagree. I have rarely seen a Uberti '73 or '66 that would not function "out of the box." And I also have rarely seen ANY model of gun that wouldn't function BETTER with the attention of a skilled smith.

 

Pop that lever open smartly.

 

Buena suerte, and welcome to the sport!

eGG

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I disagree. I have rarely seen a Uberti '73 or '66 that would not function "out of the box." And I also have rarely seen ANY model of gun that wouldn't function BETTER with the attention of a skilled smith.

 

Pop that lever open smartly.

 

Buena suerte, and welcome to the sport!

eGG

Guess they send tha better ones to Colorado, Guess your mil may vary

 

 

RRR

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Thanks guys- problem fixed. Actually, it wasn't really a problem afterall; I just was just babying it too much :FlagAm: . Working the lever vigorously resulted in launching snap caps almost through the ceiling!

 

It does have the loading issue that I have read about how to fix on another site. The last round loaded needs to be straightened by hand (or a painful finger) or it will jam the carrier. I'll fix it after my first match on Sunday.

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Thanks guys- problem fixed. Actually, it wasn't really a problem afterall; I just was just babying it too much :FlagAm: . Working the lever vigorously resulted in launching snap caps almost through the ceiling!

 

It does have the loading issue that I have read about how to fix on another site. The last round loaded needs to be straightened by hand (or a painful finger) or it will jam the carrier. I'll fix it after my first match on Sunday.

 

Babying a cowboy gun, that's funny right there.....

 

Not trying to be a a_hole, it's just that I neve thought I would throw a $1500.00 dollar rifle down on plywood while running to pick up another gun. We do get kinda rough on the equipment sometime....

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Do not use A-Zoom's in your 73. They will do damage to the top extractor.

 

A-Zooms are very hard T-6 aluminum, much harder than brass.

 

I have two sets of A-Zooms in 44-40. I bought them for my Uberti Bisleys. Tried them in my 73 Carbine one set works the other set preforms as you describe. I measured the base rim thickness. One set is larger than the other.

They are not produced consistant from batch to batch. Also they are on the short side, and not a standard length.

 

You can use them if you want, however you run the risk of damaging the Bolt extractors. They can put un-do stress on some very close fitting parts.

 

I find the same thing with 12 Ga. A-Zooms in my 97, Rim thickness, and hard to eject. I use them in my SXS's as snap caps.

 

You them with caution, Pards.

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Never use a snap cap or dummy round with lead bullet in it, it puts a lot of uneccessary stress on your extractor. If you want to test how the rifle ejects, use an empty case. Using a dummy round with lead bullet puts weight on the front and the rim will stay hook on the extractor claw and while the carrier is coming up, is exerting upward pressure trying to eject the round and will force your extractor to bend upward and possibly breaking your extractor. Use dummy round or snap cap to check how your rifle will chamber a round, for extraction or for checking carrier/lifter timing, but not ejection. In some cases, the extractor claw is slightly long and very sharp and it has a tendency to bite down on the brass and it makes it difficult to eject and needs to be addressed by a gunsmith. If not sure, have a gunsmith look at it. Hope this help.

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I forget where I got this tip, but it works well. If you want to use an AZoom snap cap for dry fire practice in your rifle, just file part of the rim off of it, so the extractor will not pull it out each time you work the lever. I filed the rim off about 1/2 way around. Then put the filed rim facing up in the chamber. You get the added benefit that you don't have to chase snap caps around the room. And send it to a good Cowboy gunsmith to make it work like a dream. Good Luck! :blink::lol::lol::P

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Glad it’s working……but let me warn you don’t even touch a 73 at the match that has had a good action job….because yours will feel like a different gun. It doesn’t surprise me you were not working the lever hard enough because form the factory those guns tight and not very CAS friendly. But RRR was right a good gunsmith can take away all that chunkiness and fix all the little issues that Uberti will let slide out the door while the quality control guy is asleep (and he sleeps a lot).

 

If you do pick up one you will find yourself diggin’ in the sofa cushions for extra change because the difference is immense. IMO getting one “slicked” up isn’t much and pays great dividends and you don’t need the short stroke etc right off the bat which is what drives the cost up…..but getting the “normal” action job is priceless for CAS and isn’t much at all.

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I have yet to see a Single "Uberti" 66 that would not function right out of the box, could they use a little hand-fittin and polishing ,,,, Yes...

But all have run when fead properly assembled ammo ....

 

And I have seen just one new from the box "Uberti" 73 that failed to function straight out of the box (.357) the chap opped to have me do a basic fix and smoothing ($100) and used it at a shoot two days later ....

 

 

Jabez Cowboy

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Thanks guys- problem fixed. Actually, it wasn't really a problem afterall; I just was just babying it too much :blink: . Working the lever vigorously resulted in launching snap caps almost through the ceiling!

 

It does have the loading issue that I have read about how to fix on another site. The last round loaded needs to be straightened by hand (or a painful finger) or it will jam the carrier. I'll fix it after my first match on Sunday.

LOL ><LOL > this is the problem most of the times ( babying )

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Friend I don't want to dishartin ye but a 73 from Italy that hasn't been to a CB gunsmith 40% of tha time will not function. If it wasn't that it wuld be sumptin else.

 

 

RRR

 

 

I agree,out of the box they function but not very well and especially for what were doin.

 

 

 

Good Luck AO

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Ya can't baby a new cowboy gun, it will grow up to be a wimp!

 

I have an original 87 Winchester in 10ga. Whenever I let somebody try it who has not ever fired a 87, I always tell them to work the action like they have a pair. Most times, they soft stroke it and the shell doesn't eject clean, and I laugh every time. I usually have to tell them again to work the action VIGOROUSLY! It sure likes being handled rough!

 

Have fun with that repeater! You will be very careful and the first scratch on the stock will hurt you like a cut across your face. After you get over that first scratch, you will be a bit more relaxed. :unsure:

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Such a huge difference in a '73 straight out of the box and one that has been slicked up...

For the last 6 years I have been shooting a Marlin that you have to be rough with for it to work.

The only '73s I had tried were all slicked up.... extra sensitive even...race ready.

 

When I got my new '73 it was horrible.... as far from slick as it could get and not be called broken.

It's at Cody's getting an action job right now. I am so excited to get to try it out.

 

I hope to see my times improve.

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Ya can't baby a new cowboy gun, it will grow up to be a wimp!

 

I have an original 87 Winchester in 10ga. Whenever I let somebody try it who has not ever fired a 87, I always tell them to work the action like they have a pair. Most times, they soft stroke it and the shell doesn't eject clean, and I laugh every time. I usually have to tell them again to work the action VIGOROUSLY! It sure likes being handled rough!

 

Have fun with that repeater! You will be very careful and the first scratch on the stock will hurt you like a cut across your face. After you get over that first scratch, you will be a bit more relaxed. :unsure:

 

Yeah- I'm usually not such a wimp about a new gun, but I had read about someone breaking the cartriage guide off repeatedly after the install of a short stroke kit so I was being careful. I'm also not really one to worry too much about how my guns look. I usually prefer the well-used look, but putting the first ding on this stock is going to hurt: http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y273/ruotolof/DSCF0053.jpg

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A short stroke kit MUST be adjusted for timing before any brass is run through vigorously, as the bolt does not get back out of the way quick enough. The rear of the carrier will touch the "guide" on the bolt, and next the strike the rim of the lifting cartridge. the shortstroke links shorten the lever stroke and the new lifter arm raises the carrier faster/sooner so the parts can collide. Adjusting the timing is necessary by delaying the lift.

 

A new out of the box rifle will generally not have a timing problem, and if you got the rifle from a smith who sells them tuned and stroked, you won't have a problem. A short stroke kit from Pioneer or C&I will include instructions on setting the timing, should you elect to do it yourself.

 

A shortstroked gun also ejects more strongly because of the increased carrier speed.

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That is a beautiful stock!

 

+1

 

Now hold it over a wooden park bench and drop it so you can get that first scratch out of the way.!! :blush:

 

Just funnin with ya!

 

Regards

 

:blink:

 

Gateway Kid

 

(who loves beautiful guns but has major scratches and dings on ALL his CAS guns) :unsure:

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Butt Covers help save the finish on good lookin furniture like that!

 

You can go to folks like Kirkpatrick, who crank em out by the thousands (and they are good) http://www.kirkpatrickleather.com/product/h_bc.htm

OR

you can get a CUSTOM CRAFTED butt cover from Noah Gonnatellya http://oldfortparkerpatriots.com/new_page_46.htm

 

I have 2 Kirkpatrick covers and one Noah made. They all do the same thing, but I think it's nice to patronize "the little guy".

If you want, you can email him at leatherclassics (AT) yahoo (dot) com .

 

FWIW..YMMV, but you might keep that pretty furniture pretty a little longer with a leather cover.

 

SOso

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