Shynee Graves, SASS #19,614 Posted January 11, 2011 Posted January 11, 2011 I am sure this has been answered before, but please excuse this pad-wan learner's question. I have a brass framed .36 Navy Colt clone I purchased in 1971-72. What is the correct load required for BP/substitute. Thank you in advance oh wise ones.
Gunner Gatlin, SASS 10274L Posted January 11, 2011 Posted January 11, 2011 I would use 15 gr.Carlos Yup - fffg Goex should be nice for it. GG ~
J-BAR #18287 Posted January 12, 2011 Posted January 12, 2011 15 will be a very mild load. 18 or 21 grains will speak with more authority, if you are facing handgun knockdowns. However, if you still have factory nipples, rather than Treso nipples, the larger powder charges may cause some cap fragments to come backwards off the nipple. These can fall down into the works between the hammer and the frame, causing headaches. So, as in so many other things, it's a trade-off. My 1851 can't tell much difference between ffg and fffg...not a big deal. Just don't use fffg. That's for flintlocks.
Abilene Slim SASS 81783 Posted January 12, 2011 Posted January 12, 2011 15 will be a very mild load. 18 or 21 grains will speak with more authority, if you are facing handgun knockdowns. However, if you still have factory nipples, rather than Treso nipples, the larger powder charges may cause some cap fragments to come backwards off the nipple. These can fall down into the works between the hammer and the frame, causing headaches. So, as in so many other things, it's a trade-off. My 1851 can't tell much difference between ffg and fffg...not a big deal. Just don't use fffg. That's for flintlocks. J-Bar is one of the true soot lords and is treat to watch with his front stuffers, whether he's shooting or just handling his equipment. I think his reference for flintlocks requires an extra "f" and should read ffffg, which is extra fine. Look forward to seeing you when the weather cooperates J-Bar!
Tuco Forsyth #72674 Posted January 12, 2011 Posted January 12, 2011 Load them cylinders up to 3/8" from the top with your favorite BP, poke a .375 ball to where the cylinder will spin and cap with a #10 Remington. There you go.
Brasspounder, SASS #9076 Posted January 12, 2011 Posted January 12, 2011 15-20 grains ffg BP or an equivalent volume load of substitute such as Pyrodex RS or Pyrodex Select (NOT 777!) under a .375 soft lead round ball would be about right. Repeated overcharging will cause a brass framed pistol to loosen up prematurely. Fffg BP would probably be OK too, but I have found that PISTOL grade Pyrodex is easy to overcompress and shoots pretty squirrelly if you do squeeze it a bit too tightly. I don't care for it in percussion pistols since it is difficult to compress it evenly from chamber to chamber when loading. FFg BP and Pyrodex RS or Select have no such tendency, and work just fine.
Three Foot Johnson Posted January 12, 2011 Posted January 12, 2011 I've found that even full loads usually don't give me enough oomph to knock the plates over, so I use just enough to give me a full stroke of the ram when seating the ball - about 12-13 grains. I use FF or FFF KiK, cuz it's cheap.
Brasspounder, SASS #9076 Posted January 12, 2011 Posted January 12, 2011 SASS Wire Vet Group: Members -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Joined: 12/5/08 From: Anthony KS 67003 Member No.: 44,332 SASS# 82248 NCOWS #3148 Powder Creek Cowboys (Life) Need more Umph? 777 The OP mentioned the subject revolver was a brass framed version. So I wouldn't.
Iron Pony Posted January 12, 2011 Posted January 12, 2011 Sometimes with cap and ball revolvers point of impact matching point of aim is one of the most important considerations. I trimmed a measure spout on my flask for the 1860s so these two matched, well at least they were close. The load is lighter then max by a couple grains but it shoots where you point it for all our CAS type ranges.
Rye Miles #13621 Posted January 12, 2011 Posted January 12, 2011 Aren't ya supposed to put some grease on the front of the cylinders to avoid chain firing?? I do and it only takes a couple of seconds. I use real black though maybe there's a difference?
Noz Posted January 12, 2011 Posted January 12, 2011 Aren't ya supposed to put some grease on the front of the cylinders to avoid chain firing?? I do and it only takes a couple of seconds. I use real black though maybe there's a difference? Sam'l Colt didn't advocate either grease or wads in his belt pistols. That said, i use wads instead of grease with good results.
Iron Pony Posted January 12, 2011 Posted January 12, 2011 Rye I've never seen or experienced a chain fire but recall some of the cap and ball cowboys in AZ did some testing and found the most likely route would be from the nipple not the mouth of cylinder. A tight fitting ball should preclude the possibility of a spark getting to powder while a cap falling off might allow for the "blowback" to reach that flash hole. There was a webpage that showed the process and results, one of the wire pards may have a link for it.
Fairshake Posted January 12, 2011 Posted January 12, 2011 Do yourself a big favor for the fun catagory and use the "REAL BP" A good load of FFF will give you the oomph for those KD's and also the fire and sparks that the sub shooters don't have. As was posted by another pard you might want to change those nipples out for tresso's as they will do a much better job. I also install my nipples with some anti seize to make taking them out for cleaning much easier. "WELCOME TO THE DARK SIDE"
Fingers McGee Posted January 12, 2011 Posted January 12, 2011 For brass framed .36s, I would steer away from using T7 and limit myself to 15-20 grains of ffg or fffg BP. Properly adjusted KDs will go down with 20 grains. Second choice would be same quantity of Pinacle (if you can find any), and in a pinch would use APP or (eeeechh) Pyrodex. Fingers (Show Me MO smoke) McGee
J-BAR #18287 Posted January 12, 2011 Posted January 12, 2011 J-Bar is one of the true soot lords and is treat to watch with his front stuffers, whether he's shooting or just handling his equipment. I think his reference for flintlocks requires an extra "f" and should read ffffg, which is extra fine. Look forward to seeing you when the weather cooperates J-Bar! Thanks for the kind words and for catching my typo!! I know you are going as stir crazy with the weather up there as we are down here.
Madd Mike #8595 Posted January 12, 2011 Posted January 12, 2011 my funnel says 30 grains it weights a tadd bit less on the scale dont go below that is my personal opinion why? do I say that you may have sound counters, and a 36 ball dont make any noise on some targets!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! mileage will always varie,,,,,but have fun it actually takes more powder to move a small object in some cases
Shynee Graves, SASS #19,614 Posted January 12, 2011 Author Posted January 12, 2011 Many thanks oh great and mighty soot warriors for your councel. My your powder be always dry, your caps function flawless, and the wind be in your favor! I will offer up incense at the Hickok Shrine in your honors! Live long and prosper. S.G.
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