Buckshot Frank Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 I'm about to place an order with Longhunter to get a lighter latch spring for my Stoeger since my wife still has a hard time opening it even after slicking it up. Since the spring is only $5 and shipping is a flat $5 rate, I might as well order some more items. They also carry the lighter hammer and trigger springs for the Vaqueros. Not having shot in my first match yet, I'm not sure what a lighter hammer and trigger would do for me. If it were a target gun, I'd certainly want a lighter trigger pull. In dry firing, I don't really notice the trigger pull though. I do sometimes shortstroke the hammer when trying to go fast (dry firing). Would the lighter hammer spring help this? I planned on shooting in a couple of matches first before deciding to spruce them up, but I'm placing an order anyways and the springs don't cost much. What's everybody's opinion on lighter hammer and trigger springs for the NMVs? Longhunter also carries a reloading strap that I'm thinking about ordering. Worthwhile, or not really necessary? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marauder SASS #13056 Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 The reloading strap can be very useful to help keep you organized for a stage. Some like the original hammer springs while others prefer the lighter springs. If your gun is a 45, the increased power base pin latch spring can help with many guns. Some don't need it, but a few will need them. If you like to experiment, the springs can be something fun to experiment with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Fill 'Em 67797 Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 When I first got my NMVs the hammers felt like they cocked easier than my OMVs with lightened springs. After shooting them for about a year I went ahead and got lighter springs. Now they feel really smooth. I'd say go ahead and get them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kulshan 20262 Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 Last week I helped a pard put the Wolff springs and Super Blackhawk hammers in his New Vaqueros. They felt good. We are going to shoot them this afternoon. My pard wants them to be easy for his wife who plans on starting next spring, she will get to try them this PM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Widder, SASS #59054 Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 If your gona be talkin with LH, he'll take the time to tell you any Pros/Cons on those hammer springs and such. He has an honest reputation and a stand up feller. Best regards ..........Widder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snakebite Dust SASS 75484 Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 I would get the pistol spring kits mostly for the stronger base pin spring. Cant tell you how many times I have seen someone shootin a ruger and think they have a high primer when the cylinder wont turn and it turns out the base pin has moved forward and caused the cylinder to bind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Saint Eagle, SASS # 64903 Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 I've used the lighter Ruger springs and it helps some on cocking the hammers, I've not changed the trigger springs because I don't like too light a trigger pull. I also prefer loading blocks to loading strips, the cartridges sit up for easy access when the the leather cover is pivoted out of the way and the block is set on the table. Also as Snakebite says the extra power base pin spring is a big plus. http://designzbyyoubellbuckle.blogspot.com...laser-work.html Just my opinion. Randy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubious Don #56333 Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 Factory old model vaquero springs are 23#, the new vaqueros are 17#. The lightest one Wolff makes for the new V is 14#. The springs for old and new are not interchangeable; the New V are shorter due to the internal lock. I install the extra power base pin springs as a matter of course. Trigger springs also come in different weights. Changing the hammer spring will make a little sifference but the bigger difference comes from the trigger spring. Both are relatively to change so you can tinker and see what works best for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abe E.S. Corpus SASS #87667 Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 I borrowed a pard's stock NMVs for afew matches before buying a pair from Longhunter which of course has the spring set installed. I wouldn't call them necessary but worth having. I used cloth bags to carry ammo to the loading table and later ordered a loading strip. I really find it helpful to have it, one less thing to distract me when getting ready to shoot. I might eventually pick up at least one more. I've not tried a loading block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Bullweed Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 Before you bu a loading block, you can cut a plastic cartridge tray that comes in store-bought ammo down to four rows of five. Slap of leather strap on it to fit over your belt and call it 'cowboy'. After you buy a loading block, this can be your spare. I like my Stoger 'as is'. It also serves as a home-defense gun. Shooting it will smooth things out. This is the one gun that you need four to six dry-fire snap-caps for. The practice of loading/unloading and the smoothing of the action doing this will justify these snap caps. The best things about drop-in springs is that you can remove them if you do not like them. Go to a match and talk to experienced Vaquero shooters. If they are like the cowboys that I shoot with, they will load up their Vaqueros and let you try them after the match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubious Don #56333 Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 Another thing about light springs; you find all the places in the innards that have burrs or tight spots! Reduce the hammer spring you MAY find the plunger on the hammer doesn't quite ride over the bolt like it should and the hammer doesn't go all the way down. Or you find that with a lighter trigger spring the trigger doesn't go all the way forward on its own. Sometimes drop in parts...ain't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poppy Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 For Christmas i got 6 reloading straps (one for each stage) and It was really nice to just grab and go and not fuss with a bag/box/whatever. On the light springs, I say wait and maybe shoot a pards gun first and compare Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithy Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 Longhunter also carries a reloading strap that I'm thinking about ordering. Worthwhile, or not really necessary? I used Triple K straps since they were inexpensive enough at the time, but I also bought six, one for each stage for no more boxes. It sure makes for an easy shoot and I would suggest getting as many as you can up to six. On the springs, don't get anything less than a seventeen pound hammer spring unless you want to venture off into misfires with some loads/primers. Seventeen pounds is pretty much your minimum weight to assure positive ignition on all your loads, but still check them out after the spring swap. For my Rugers I went with the Brownells Marshal spring kit that had three springs in it. A reduced seventeen pound hammer spring, a reduced trigger spring and a beefed up base pin spring (a sure need). Maybe you can get all of those from Long Hunter? or Piece out the missing ones from Brownells, but I feel they are all needed for a proper tune up. Best of luck to you and happy shooting. Smithy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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