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Questions about installation of Short Stroke Kit in 73 Winchester


WEEDY SASS#653

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OK, I'll start by sayin' I didn't need to do it but I wanted too.

 

After years of absolutey no trouble with a Uberti 1873 Rifle with only an action job I decided to do a little upgrade for the new year.

I purchased a bunch of new parts from PGW. Slix-Springs, Firing Pin and Extention as well as his Short Stroke kit. Also bought some new Hardened screws (lever and sideplate) from VTI.

I read the instructions (Gee what a concept) and just got done with the install. Only thing I had to touch is the end of one of the Slix-Springs and the block of the other where the loading gate swings. No other adjustments were nesessary....could this be right? There are areas the instructions tell you to look and none of these were needed??

 

I'm going to contact PGW on Monday with these same questions but I thought I'd ask here because he's most likely closed for the Holiday.

 

Sure feels like others rifles I've handled so I must have done it right. Can't wait to give it a go at the range.

 

Looking for comments from those who have done the same themselves.

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I did almost the same as you with my Uberti '73 (.45Colt) last yr. Had a small problem with the timing of the carrier, but once I learned what the problem was it was easily fixed. If yours feels smoth & cycles your ammo flawlessly, I say you are "home & dry".

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Sure, if you CAREFULLY followed the instructions, the short stroke kits sometimes go in with little or no adjustment.

 

Be especially certain that the bolt is fully retracted back into the frame, including the cartridge holding tab on the bottom edge of the bolt, BEFORE the carrier rises far enough for a rising cartridge rim to slap that tab. When you have too-fast rise on the carrier, you break that tab (much expense) when you start cycling the gun quickly.

 

Check ejection of shells, too, to see if you have good results there. Watch that the carrier block never catches the bolt up close to the front of the bolt, where the bolt swells out to full diameter, as the bolt moves back during the start of extraction and ejection stroke.

 

Check that your lever is able to stay open when placed in a vertical rack.

 

Check that your lever is held shut when you carry it closed and horizontal.

 

Good luck with it, and congrats! GJ

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As others have pointed out they often work fine empty, but you won't know if the carrier timing is correct until you cycle some rounds through it. Point the muzzle up at an angle so the round in the carrier slides all the way to the rear of the carrier. Then slowly cycle the lever and watch how the bolt retracts and the carrier comes up. If the rim of the round rising in the carrier hits the little tab at the bottom of the bolt it will break sooner or later.

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Weedy, I don't know how two old goats like us can get so gamey, but I just bought a rifle that has a short stroke kit in it already. I shot it yesterday for the first time and now proclaim that it is my main match rifle. WOW! We are gonna be fast now, nothing holding us back and we are running out of excuses. :D:unsure:;)

 

 

 

See ya soon pard

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Weedy, I don't know how two old goats like us can get so gamey, but I just bought a rifle that has a short stroke kit in it already. I shot it yesterday for the first time and now proclaim that it is my main match rifle. WOW! We are gonna be fast now, nothing holding us back and we are running out of excuses. :wacko::ph34r::blush:

 

 

 

See ya soon pard

 

Sooner the better Pard!

 

Excuses, We don't need no stinkin excuses!

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Cycled it empty Larsen. I don't dare load it in town here at the house in case something isn't just right.

Is there something I should look for?

 

What others have said. Only way to check proper timing is with DUMMY ammunition. Cycling the empty rifle won't tell you what you need to know. (up and down timing, feeding from magazine, ejection. Round on the carrier rising up should not contact the extension on the bottom of the bolt, etc.

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