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1895 Marlin Question

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I've been doing some work on my '95. Longer mag tube to increase the capacity from 4 to 7, radiusing the edges on the frame and lever to smooth them out and permit easier closing, but now have a question for the more knowledgeable.


On the closing stroke, the lever meets some resistance on the last 1/4" or so. At the same time I've noticed a little jiggle in the firing pin where it protrudes out the end of the bolt, and there's a distinct hard *click* when it finally gets home. In looking at a picture of a stripped Marlin ... http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=11865/g..._Big_Loop_Lever ... on the 5th picture down ... it appears that the locking lever may be the culprit.


Is there any way to smooth this out without compromising the locking action?


Thanx in advance.

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Does it still have a two-piece firing pin? If so, what you are feeling is the lever pushing up that small, rear section of the firing pin. Switch to a one-piece pin, you can get them from Longhunter Shooting Supply.


There is also a detent plunger in the lever itself to help keep it closed. The spring behind that pin is usually pretty stout. Lightening it will help smooth out the action. The one-piece firing pin and spring kit is also available from Longhunter. The spring kit also has a lighter hammer spring which helps, too.

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to help you understand where this little gremlin is located and just how much of resistance it is causeing, do this little test.


REMOVE the plunger from the lever and put the lever back on the rifle. . Then, with GUN EMPTY, work your lever to see if all or most of that resistance has been eliminated. If so, then that particular part is your main gremlin, so to speak.


As mentioned by Doc, you might also be getting 'some' resistance feel if you still use the factory firing pin mechanism. I agree with Doc, get the LH 1-piece pin and spring kit.


Now, as for fine tuning your lever plunger, a few elementary 'tweaks' will help.

1st: use the LH spring in his kit OR, find an appropriately sized ink pin spring and cut it accordingly to have enough power to help keep your lever closed when your mag is full.


2nd: polish the outsides of that plunger to help it push in/out without drag.


3rd: polish the hole it sits in just enough to ensure there are no burrs, especially the sharp edge of the hole entrance. Sometimes, this entrance can be sharp and can hinder that plunger from pushing in/out smoothly.


NOW, if you have all that perfected, here is another little item you might have to deal with.

The strength of your mag spring, especially when your mag is full, can exert enough 'pushing pressure' on the area of the lever thats inside the gun that it can cause your lever to pop open, even if you have good set up on that lever plunger.


your mag tube spring can give total reliablility when its only about 2.5" longer than the mag tube. Start with about 3" and see how it works.


After getting everything else set to my satisfaction, I've even cut my mag tube springs even shorter and find them totally reliable. If its a new spring, leave 3" until it sets.


There is one other item which can cause some resistance on that last 1/4" of closing. Its the little button that sticks down behind the trigger that the lever has to push upwards in closing before the trigger can be pulled. Alot of folks call it the Trigger Safety button.


Anyhow, if this button is OVERLY stiff or if there is a burr on it (and sometimes, even grit), it can cause that last 1/4" of closing alittle stiff and can be very noticable. In some cases, this little trigger safety button can have enough downward pushing strength that it can cause the lever to pop open automatically.........UNLESS your lever plunger and mag tube spring have been set correctly.


Hope some of this helps.


If you have any questions, feel free to holler back or call me. I'll be around the house most of the day.






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Not having the one-piece firing pin handy I thought I would try the lever plunger mod first. Removed the lever and drifted out the pin that holds the plunger, and kept my thumb over it as the pin cleared. I fully expected it to try and launch itself across the shop, as most spring activated objects tend to do. Not this time.


It just sat there in the hole. Thinking it may have be a keyway mount, I pushed it in and tried turning it to find the release point. Nothing. Spun all the way around and refused to come out. Not being one to force things, as forced things tend to break and then become really expensive, I put it all back together.


Any ideas?

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Did you remove the pin completely or leave it still in one side? Take the pin all the way out. If the plunger still won't come out grasp it with some pliers and it should come out. You're not gonna hurt anything, all that's there is the plunger and the spring. There must be some burrs by the pin holes that's holding it in.


On re-assembly make sure the plunger is correctly positioned. There is a flat spot on the plunger that faces toward the little pin.

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Yep.....force it out......BUT GENTLY.


Put you safety glasses on first.


I've dealt with the same problem before because tolerances were tight combined with unnoticable crud. And sometimes, a dern burr exist. thats why I polish the hole, entrance the hole and the plunger.


I just used tweezers to grasp it and pull it out.


Holler back and keep us informed.




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