F. Greysmoke ,#12093 Posted December 12, 2010 Share Posted December 12, 2010 Hey pards, I noticed a gap between the metal and wood on the back end (recoil sheild?) on my muzzleloading shotgun which is starting the tang to crack/chip the wood around it on the stock. So, what stuff can I use to fill the gap between metal/wood? Bear in mind the recoil shield pushes against this wood gap area when the gun is fired. It needs to be something that I can get at Walmart, Lowes, or Home Depot. Thanks for the help! Greysmoke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackson Rose, SASS #45478 Posted December 12, 2010 Share Posted December 12, 2010 Acraglass from Brownell's. You can order it on line. It was designed to glass bed gun stocks and cures hard. Anything you get from Lowe's or Home Depot will not work as well. Also, Acraglass can be stained to match your stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas John Ringo, SASS #10138 Posted December 12, 2010 Share Posted December 12, 2010 JB Weld Also relieve the area behind/touching the tang. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wild Ben Raymond, SASS 23108, Posted December 12, 2010 Share Posted December 12, 2010 JB Weld I was thinking the same, might be a cheap way to go. that JB Weld is tough stuff. WBR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt Dan Blodgett, SASS #75655 Posted December 12, 2010 Share Posted December 12, 2010 Johnsons paste wax on the metal parts work good as a release agent. Most of the bedding done by one other than myself on my guns is done with bisonite http://www.championshooters.com/store/manu...nufacturerid=18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Fill 'Em 67797 Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 Acraglass would be my first choice, but if you want something you can get locally I've used the general purpose 5 minute epoxy from Wal-Mart. It sticks well to the wood and is not noticable when you're done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Dastardly SASS #45219 Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 Acraglass would be my 1st choice. Whatever you use, get a good release agent or you will never be able to get that gun apart again. DD-DLoS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellowhouse Sam # 25171 Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 Acraglass! I use PAM cooking spray as a release agent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas John Ringo, SASS #10138 Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 From Post #1: It needs to be something that I can get at Walmart, Lowes, or Home Depot. I don't think you can get Acraglass from Walmart, Lowes, or Home Depot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 If you can see an open gap and are cracking the wood, most likely the butt stock is fitting loosely against the metal of the receiver. Here's your chance to fix this before you end up really damaging the stock. JB Weld will never look anything like the wood of the stock. If you don't care about that, then it's certainly strong enough to work for rebedding the stock to the receiver. However, if you DO care about the looks, then Acraglass from Brownell's is a better solution. To get a permanent repair here will require some work. First, degrease both the stock and the receiver where they meet. If you have an "old time" muzzleloader, the bedding surface where they meet can be very complicated and irregular. Second, you need a good release agent on the metal or the epoxy (which is what JB Weld and Acraglass is) will permanently bond the wood to the receiver. The Brownell's kit for the gel type of Acraglass (easier to keep in place than the thinner version of Acraglass) has a good release agent that you dab on thinly with a q-tip. Apply the Acraglass to the wood and snug the stock to it. After it hardens, if the release agent was in the right spots, the stock and receiver come apart with a few taps of a rubber or plastic mallet. (Acraglass or other stock repair epoxy really is the best product to use for this, even if it DOES require ordering and waiting a few days. Acraglass is much more able to penetrate into fine cracks in the stock and stop further damage to the stock; the steel-embedded epoxies like JB Weld are much less able to do that.) I've got shotgun stocks fixed with Acraglass that are now thirty years under repair, and no sign of failure. Good luck, GJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Woodrow Cahill, SASS # 54363 Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 Acraglas from Brownells or some cheap goo from a big-box retailer ... You can do it right or do it right now. In the long term you'd be ahead to use the product designed for the job. Check around at some of your local gunshops. The better-equipped ones might just have it as on the shelf item, and can offer advice and tips on using it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F. Greysmoke ,#12093 Posted December 13, 2010 Author Share Posted December 13, 2010 Thanks for all the help pards. I'm gonna use JB weld. Now my question is what can I use as a releasing agent with JB weld?? Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 PAM spray cooking oil, vaseline, (used) heavy motor oil, wheel bearing grease, etc. I'd go with a thin coat of vaseline or bearing grease myself, as the lighter oils can rub off while you are positioning the stock. After you set the stock, tighten the stock retaining screws or bolts a little until you squeeze the extra epoxy out and are sure you have metal to wood contact at least at some point. For a really complicated bearing surface between wood and metal, I have had to do a double-bedding on some guns, to avoid the dreaded disaster of getting the epoxy locked around the metal so tightly that I can't remove the stock without taking a chunk of wood out. Examine your particular stock design and make sure you don't "keystone" in the metal where it won't come off the stock. Double bedding would be to bed the flat bearing surfaces first, let it harden up well, then bed the "cosmetic" areas around the outside, visible parts of the gap. To speed up hardening, you can stick the parts under a desk lamp with a 100 or 150 watt incandescent bulb to keep ti warm while hardening. Just don't melt your release agent, though! Good luck, GJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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