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Rossi 92 problem


Muleshoe Bill SASS #67022

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My little used Rossi 92 in 45 LC and I went out this morning to attempt to see if I corrected a feeding problem. When I try to work the lever fast (read here fire, lever, fire lever as fast as I can) the case edge (where the crimp between lead and brass occurs) clips the 12 oclock chamber lip and causes a mometary jam which is corrected by letting off on the lever a bit and then closing the lever slightly slower. I cleaning the gun and polished the chamber a bit, gave the shell lifter a bit of a slicking, the extractor is ground per Nate's video and!!!! Nope it still does it. I am almost to the point of chamfering the chamber entrance where the case wall catches the chamber entrance. Any ideas before I go to work with the jeweler file?

Thanks

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I too am intersted in the correct answer. While I am not a master reloader, I have at least one or more 92's that don't feed properly. That said on my ammo or new, makes no difference. One of them as been to Nate as well. I have several others that I have done per DVD and work fine. Those are: .44 Mag and .44-40 to be the best. It seems like the 45LC is the worst of the lot.

 

Awaiting the answers, Cobb

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Breaking the edge on the chamber mouth will help, although I'd stay away from using a file. Ideally you just want to put a slight radius on it, not bevel it. A piece of 800 or 1000 emery cloth on the tip of your index finger worked in a circular pattern will work; or if your fingers won't fit a cotton polishing drum with some 800 grit polishing compound will work. Go slow - as soon as that razor sharp edge is gone, you're done.

 

I did this to my 92 and it feeds everything including semi-wadcutters without a hitch.

 

One other thing to check is your cartridge guides. If the cartridge is flopping around, that could also be a factor and will need to be adjusted. Verrrry thin brass shim stock between the receiver and the guide will close up the tolerance. If I recall correctly, it's usually the left right side one that needs tweaked.

 

Editor's Note: Correction made; see Posts # 8 & 9 below.

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The only other thing I can add is to crimp your rounds a little more. If you can slide your fingernail down the side of the bullet onto the case, and it catches on the drimp, you are not crimping enough. The crimp should be enough that the case mouth is fully into the dromp ring on the bullet and don't catch your fingernail when done. There shouldn't be any drag from the case mouth entering the chamber, as the lead should be slightly higher than the case mouth if the crimp is deep enough.

 

I've noticed that on both my 92's in 45 Colt Caliber, including the one done by Steve Young, that the left ctg guid holds the incoming round slight to the right of the center of the chamber. I don't know if this is normal for all of them, or just something with both mine, but I intend this winter to take both guids out and slightly remove a little metel from the back of the left guid to better align the cartridges into the chamber. I will shim the right one to compensate for the metel removed from the back of the left guid. I will try this on one rifle before starting the other, and hopefuly, it will align the cartridges better into the chamber. Mine works well at speed, but sometimes binds a little when worked slowly.

 

Greeenriver

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The only other thing I can add is to crimp your rounds a little more. If you can slide your fingernail down the side of the bullet onto the case, and it catches on the drimp, you are not crimping enough.

True, but it's also possible to crimp too much. If the crimp is overdone, the case will bulge just below the case mouth, causing the same momentary jam. Sometimes it's visible, sometimes you can feel it with your fingers, but your calipers will tell you for sure.

 

MB, I haven't found the .45 Rossi to be as sensitive to cartridge OAL and bullet shape as the .38/.357, but you might want to make some dummy cartridges of varying lengths to see if one works better than the others. I use RNFP bullets in mine and never had a problem.

 

Good luck!

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My little used Rossi 92 in 45 LC and I went out this morning to attempt to see if I corrected a feeding problem. When I try to work the lever fast (read here fire, lever, fire lever as fast as I can) the case edge (where the crimp between lead and brass occurs) clips the 12 oclock chamber lip and causes a mometary jam which is corrected by letting off on the lever a bit and then closing the lever slightly slower. I cleaning the gun and polished the chamber a bit, gave the shell lifter a bit of a slicking, the extractor is ground per Nate's video and!!!! Nope it still does it. I am almost to the point of chamfering the chamber entrance where the case wall catches the chamber entrance. Any ideas before I go to work with the jeweler file?

Thanks

 

 

The DVD doesn't address timing issues. That could take two more DVD's to explain all the possibilities.

 

As folks here said, check your ammo's crimp first, then a little ramping of the chamber mouth will help.

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Capt. Cahill,

The left cartridge guide also has the pivoting cartridge stop & spring. TBMK, the RIGHT side guide (same side as the loading port) is the one that should be shimmed. I shimmed the right guide of my EMF Hartford 92 carbine and it tightened the space a bit for a smoother feed.

 

CAB

 

 

 

 

 

Breaking the edge on the chamber mouth will help, although I'd stay away from using a file. Ideally you just want to put a slight radius on it, not bevel it. A piece of 800 or 1000 emery cloth on the tip of your index finger worked in a circular pattern will work; or if your fingers won't fit a cotton polishing drum with some 800 grit polishing compound will work. Go slow - as soon as that razor sharp edge is gone, you're done.

 

I did this to my 92 and it feeds everything including semi-wadcutters without a hitch.

 

One other thing to check is your cartridge guides. If the cartridge is flopping around, that could also be a factor and will need to be adjusted. Verrrry thin brass shim stock between the receiver and the guide will close up the tolerance. If I recall correctly, it's usually the left side one that needs tweaked.

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Colts - Thank you for the correction. It's been a few years since I tore it down, so my memory of which side was the culprit was a bit hazy. I'll fix my post so nobody rips apart the wrong side.

 

I should add that when I said to use the cotton buffing drum, it should be chucked in a Dremel at the lowest speed. Otherwise you'll sling polishing compound everywhere, and risk removing too much metal or egg-shaping the chamber mouth. Then you'll run into some real problems.

 

By the way I found Marauder's instructions for doing the adjustment job ... http://marauder.homestead.com/files/Rossi_...ridge_guide.htm

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Well Folks, I finished getting the 150 year old hackberry stump (been messing with it for 6 months) out of the ground and most of the roots so I decided to cool off and work this rifle through on the back patio. As I worked it, it came back to me what I had thought the issue was, Sir, Nate Kiowa hit the nail on the head, it seems the cartridge lifter holds the round a tiny bit too high (a degree or two) and the bolt then has to work hard to ram it into the chamber, tested with machinists blue, and three different bullet shapes and lengths. I am trianed to rebuild M16s, M1911s M1Garands, SW J and K frames M14s.... but not 1892s.... Nate get ready for a call for service

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