Stoeger SXS

[Zeak]

I have a 20 gauge that I have been working on. Getting real slick and I want to switch the triggers. I have the Nov 2009 cowboy chronicle which describes the first 1/2 of the drill. I expect that there will not be a problem from that point onward but was wondering if anybody had a quick link to the procedure?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Zeke

SASS 89367

[Nota John, SASS #51089L]

Part 2 was in the Dec 09 issue. The member's only section has back issues to 08, but maybe a pard that gets the online issue can send you those pages. Yours. Nota John

[mean gun mark]

Per the chronicle instructions I switched my triggers and honestly cant see any real advantage in my times at all.....I tend to shoot most stages in the low twenties......Not that hard to do though and its good to get inside the shotgun and see whats going on....good luck

[Zeak]

Per the chronicle instructions I switched my triggers and honestly cant see any real advantage in my times at all.....I tend to shoot most stages in the low twenties......Not that hard to do though and its good to get inside the shotgun and see whats going on....good luck

 

I expect that I can figure the "second half" as I go. Looks pretty straight forward. This is a Pards 20. I use a '97 now but have used a SxS 12 and not much dif in the times. Just fun to play and get them working better.

 

Thanks Again,

 

Zeke

[Zeak]

Part 2 was in the Dec 09 issue. The member's only section has back issues to 08, but maybe a pard that gets the online issue can send you those pages. Yours. Nota John

 

 

Working on that angle now. We'll get er fihured out. Thanks for the interest.

 

Zeke

[Badlands Bob #61228]

It's pretty straight forward. You just file away some of the "trim work" on the side of the triggers so they will pass each other. I did mine a year ago and it was easy. Just remember, you will have to pull the triggers so check for clearance with the triggers pulled.

[Badlands Bob #61228]

Whoops, double tap.

[Zeak]

It's pretty straight forward. You just file away some of the "trim work" on the side of the triggers so they will pass each other. I did mine a year ago and it was easy. Just remember, you will have to pull the triggers so check for clearance with the triggers pulled.

 

That info was most helpful. When looking at the action I did notice that one trigger had a "lip" on one side. I was wondering if that would become an issue. I think that I have enough to get at it!

 

Thanks Again,

 

Zeke

[Kidd Krystin]

If you're mechanically DIS-inclined like I am and are slow moving your trigger finger from front to back try this: starting with first and second ("bird") finger outside the trigger guard pull the rear trigger with the tip of the "bird" finger, then the front trigger with the first finger.

 

It takes a little getting used to but it becomes second nature after a while.

[Frenchy Cannuck]

If you're mechanically DIS-inclined like I am and are slow moving your trigger finger from front to back try this: starting with first and second ("bird") finger outside the trigger guard pull the rear trigger with the tip of the "bird" finger, then the front trigger with the first finger.

 

It takes a little getting used to but it becomes second nature after a while.

I start with the back trigger, then move to the front it actually work pretty well. When I did try the 2 finger method I started with both fingers on the triggers........ Well let's just say that it was one large BOOOOM!

[Buckshot Frank]

I've always wondered why double triggers aren't designed with the front trigger having enough over-travel so you can pull through the rear trigger( i.e. pull front trigger, continue follow through to rear trigger, pull rear trigger). Sure you would have a stacking of trigger weights, but once the sear releases the hammer on the front trigger, you're only dealing with the weight of the trigger return spring. Since there is a longer torque arm on the rear trigger, the stacking would probably even the trigger pull weights out some.

 

Of course, maybe I'm just weird and this style trigger would appeal to nobody else but me.

[Badlands Bob #61228]

I've always wondered why double triggers aren't designed with the front trigger having enough over-travel so you can pull through the rear trigger( i.e. pull front trigger, continue follow through to rear trigger, pull rear trigger). Sure you would have a stacking of trigger weights, but once the sear releases the hammer on the front trigger, you're only dealing with the weight of the trigger return spring. Since there is a longer torque arm on the rear trigger, the stacking would probably even the trigger pull weights out some.

 

Of course, maybe I'm just weird and this style trigger would appeal to nobody else but me.

While I see the logic in this design, there may be some legal problems with this trigger design. Something about multiple shots from one trigger pull. It may classify your double barrel as a machine gun.

[Buckshot Frank]

While I see the logic in this design, there may be some legal problems with this trigger design. Something about multiple shots from one trigger pull. It may classify your double barrel as a machine gun.

 

Perhaps. It would be interesting to hear the ATF's interpretation on this. I think that it would be legal since each trigger only activates one sear, but you never know. There are some crazy gun laws out there!

[Shiloh Brown]

I switched triggers on my Stoeger and I really like it. I did find that the gun used in the article was slightly different than mine. I don't know if I have a newer or older gun although I bought it new a year ago. The procedure was basically the same but I did have to use some J B Weld to make the new back trigger wider so that it would engage the sear. This was the first piece of gun work I have done and I really like. Does it make me faster?...Me?

 

Shiloh