Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'Uberti'.
-
Hey everybody, I was curious if sending a revolver off for tuning/smoothing was worth it? I swapped the springs for Wolff rp springs and was curious if I should send them off to get tuned/smoothed? Will it make a big difference?
-
so i’ve had a schofield for about a year now, i love it to death. but something started happening as of recently, whenever i shoot it the latch unhinges and it opens up. i can’t find any information as to why this is happening, or any fixes, i figured it might be the latch spring but i just need help. (ps i know not to use here loads, i load all of my bullets and i stick to low velocity loads.) IMG_7939.mov
-
1860 45 Colt Long Cylinder conversion? Did it need any of the regular 1860 Army tuning to function correctly? Other thoughts or comments?
-
I recently picked up a box of 4 C&B revolver frames. They came with their barrels, and the two Colt clones came with cylinders, but all have been stripped of their remaining parts all the way down to the sights. All are branded Navy Arms, and appear to be Ubertis due to the small logo of a "U" inside a barrel on all but one. I'm planning to rebuild these as I scrounge parts for them. Can anyone tell me how well parts interchange among the various brands? For example, if I stumble across some Pietta or ASM parts, how many of them, if any, are interchangeable with the Uberti parts? I have the following frames: 51 Navy - .36 cal 60 Army - .44 cal 58 Remington - 44 cal 58 Remington - 36 cal
-
Please tell me what's your go to "SASS" event lever gun and if it's is slicked up or not?
-
Let me start by saying I’m not much of a gunsmith when it comes to my rifles. I was fortunate in Tennessee to have a great gunsmith associated with our club who was close by. Out here in Western Washington it’s about a 4 hour round trip to get to a gunsmith who’s truly familiar with CAS guns. I hadn’t been to a match in about 3 years until last month. I was using reloaded ammo from a pard who I trust implicitly. However, one bullet wasn’t seated as far into the brass as it should have been (I shoot 38’s). It caused a jam in my Uberti ’66 carbine. It took awhile but a couple of days after the match I finally figured how to get it unjammed. However, in the process I took apart more than I knew how to put back correctly. I made the 4 hour round trip to the gunsmith and he got everything back in place and working. I was shooting a match Sunday (all factory fresh Remington ammo) and on the first 2 stages the rifle worked perfectly. But on the 3rd stage when I levered the rifle and pulled the trigger there was no round to shoot. I did it a second time thinking it was just something I did wrong and the carrier got the round up and I fired the first round. From then on I pretty much had to lever the rifle 2 times to get a round in position to fire, but not every time, through the rest of the stages. Before I make 2 more round trip to the gunsmith I was hoping y’all might have some suggestions of simple things I could check out. One thought I had is that the magazine spring is just flat worn out and isn’t putting enough pressure on the rounds to push them back where the carrier picks them up. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
-
Howdy Cowboys and Cowgirls, I am helping a Cowgirl here in Iowa sell some of her CAS firearms locally and I am out of my league on the value of a handful of them. If they were RNV or 1873's not a big deal, I would know them, but I have never shot let alone know the value of these couple of Marlin's and the Uberti pistols. I am looking for a couple of cowboys or cowgirls to provide me with an approximate value of the described firearms below. Thanks so much in advance! All of the firearms described are used, but certainly NOT abused. These folks did a great job maintaining these firearms. They show the normal stock wear that comes with playing our game, a few bumps and bruises but no cracks or deep gouges. 1. Marlin (Top on pic Below) - 1894 Carbine in 38 special. It is not short-stroked but it does have some slicking up done to it as the action has some swirled jeweling to it. It is old enough to have clear JM stamp with a circle around it. 2. Marlin (Bottom on pic below) - 1894 Cowboy Limited in 38 special. Again this one is not short stroked, and it does not appear to have any work done to it. However the owners have used it enough that it does feel slick. You could say this one was loosened up just by shooting it. While I did not find a JM with a circle around it, there was a smaller JM stamped on it but without a circle around it. 3. Birds Head Pistols - Uberti birds head revolvers in 38 special, 3.5 inch barrels. The action are what Uberti would call the old model, so they have the 4 clicks and no transfer bars. They did not say stallion on them, but they were certainly made for smaller hands. Again no sign of work done to them, however they are smooth. Again I would say they were loosened up with just shooting them. 4. Normal Pistols - Uberti revolver in 38 special, 5.5 inch barrels. Again 4 clicks with no transfer bars. Their was no additional identification on them like stallion, or cattleman, etc. These did not feel like smaller guns, they felt similar in my hand as my NMV but lighter. Again no sign of work done to them, however they were smooth. Again I would say they were loosened up with just shooting them. Thanks so much in advance for your expertise in helping out here! Have a great rest of the weekend and an even better week!
-
Howdy, folks! I've got a question for y'all. I've only been shooting CAS for six months, and I'm wanting to get into B-Western. My main reason is that I already have the clothes for it; they're my everyday wear. What's the best rifle for B-Western that's NOT a Marlin? Fastest, most reliable, longest lasting? I'm a lefty, and every Marlin I've shot throws the hot brass right onto my right arm, which gets old fast. I was considering a Rossi M92, IF I can find one. Price is also a deciding factor. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
-
Did a quick search and didn't find any previous threads on this, so I thought I'd ask! I'm having trouble removing the basepin from my Uberti Cattleman. It's a one of the New Models without the screw in the front of the frame. It moves in and out to activate the hammer drop safety, but I can't get it any further out. I've searched other forums and Youtube without much luck. From what those have said, I just need to pull REALLY hard, which I've done to no avail. I put some solvent down the hole (so to speak) in case there was anything in there causing it to stick, which also did nothing to help. I don't want to take pliers or something to it, as that will obviously damage the finish and metal bits. I just want to give my gun a good cleaning and lubricating like a responsible owner.
-
I have come across an 1866 yellowboy, 45LC, reproduction from Italy (Uberti?) that appears to have been imported by (now defunct) American Arms in Kansas City. The Gun Blue Book values these significantly less than that of a used Uberti reproduction now available on GunBroker, etc. Does anyone know if the American Arms imports have any mechanical issues? Why the price disparity if both manufactured by Uberti?
-
I'd like some advice. I am interested in buying a lever action rifle and single action revolver (ideally in the same caliber, but not required). I'm a Marine and have a lot of experience with semi-automatics, but little experience with revolvers or lever action rifles. I primarily want them for novelty and fun shooting, which makes me think I should get a pistol caliber such as 357 or 45 LC 1873 or 1892 Winchester. I have no experience with these types of guns, so I don't know what else they are well suited for besides Cowboy Action Shooting, which I'd enjoy getting into someday. So essentially I'm wondering (to figure out which brand/caliber would be best): 1. Which is better between the 1873 and 1892? I've heard that the 1873 has a smoother action, and the 1892 has a stronger action (Although I admit I don't really understand what that means). 2. If I want to use the rifle for hunting, would the 30-30 caliber 1894 be better? 3. For the 1892, is the Chiappa Alaskan Takedown better or worse than the Winchester? 4. Rifle vs carbine vs musket argument? (Picture of musket attached) 5. For the pistol, which is better between Ruger Vaquero and Uberti? Or is there a better one than those? 6. Do Cowboy Action Shooters shoot a lower caliber so they can shoot faster and more accurately? (Such as using a 357 pistol with 38 special rounds in it). Or do they typically go 45 LC or 44-40 for authenticity?
-
Marlin 1894CB, 44-40, Hornady 240gr SWC-HP #11118 and a load of Reloder 7. Velocity about 1,425fps. High Pressure, High Velocity not for the Henry, Winchester 66' and 73' weak action style rifles. Deer hit at about 60-75 yards. Hit the top of the shoulder broadside, turned 90deg, road down the spine and stopped in the hind quarters. Processor gave up looking for the bullet until he was cutting up the hind quarters where he found it. Buck dropped straight down, never took a step.
-
I just picked up a brand new Taylor’s/Uberti 1873 rifle in .357 for my better half. I’m looking for a short stroke kit for it but was advised that not all of them are SASS-legal. I’m interested in this Pioneer Gun Works Super Short Stroke kit. Can someone confirm these are legal? http://www.pioneergunworks.com/uberti-rifle-parts
-
1873 Texas Brush Popper Pistol Grip in .357 with Jeweled Hammer, Trigger and Dust Cover Another work of art by Griner GUNWORKS. Not to mention Uberti / Cimarron! RACE READY We Install the short stroke kit, re-works hammer and trigger sear for a light crisp trigger pull, along with polishing and action work to tune the rifle, installs Marble’s brass bead front sight, flat top the rear sight, installs a leather lever wrap. We mill the carriers to reduce weight and friction. All springs are reworked to competition level performance. Your rifle will be race ready! This is a labor intensive action tuning we are proud of. Many top shooters use these rifles to take World, National, and numerous state and local matches. If there are any other modifications you would like, but do not see offered please call us – 970-385-4141 $1690.00 Visit this rifle at http://evilroy.com We are able to add jeweling to any rifle or revolver we sell! -
Because I have had so many issues lately, I am looking for a source for a replacement parts kit including the usual parts needed for a Marlin and a Uberti El Patron.357. Do such things exist?
-
73' Uberti 18" Saddle Rifle .357 Race Ready & Ready to Ship $1595.00 TUNED , SHORT STROKED AND READY TO SHIP! Model- CA2010G35 Caliber- .357 Magnum / .38 Special Barrel Length- 18 in. Octagon Style – Saddle Rifle Capacity – 10 + 1 Frame Color – Case Hardened Finish -Standard Blue Stock/Forearm -Walnut / Checkered
-
Uberti / Cimarron 1873 Texas Brush Popper with a Pistol Grip in .357 Tuned & Short Stoked Just finished another one! Perfect for EOT!! $1690.00 Model CA2025 Caliber -.357 Magnum /38 Special Barrel Length -18 in. –Octagon to Round Style – Deluxe Texas Brush Popper – (Pistol Grip) Capacity – 10 + 1 Frame – Case Hardened Finish- Standard Blue Stock and Forearm -Checkered Walnut Pistol Grip Weight 7.35 Lbs. Cimarron’s new TEXAS BRUSH POPPER ™ model 1873 rifle is the best-balanced, lightest and quickest lever rifle available today. The 18.5”octagon to round barrel with full length magazine is complimented by either a straight or pistol gripped stock.The TEXAS BRUSH POPPER ™ model’s light weight makes it a good fit for all ages, without compromising quality, speed, or accuracy. Brought to you by the company that has their finger on the pulse of Cowboy Action Shooting needs, this latest model from Cimarron will be a great addition to any Cowboy Action Shooter’s collection. In fact, this unique little rifle is the result of requests from top Cowboy Action Shooters for the ‘ultimate competition lever gun’.
.jpg.85c60057c1833547b381257d514d23e8.jpg)
-
Howdy! So I'm in the market for a new pistola and am looking for feedback. Of course I am familiar with the major player; Colt, Uberti, Pietta and Ruger. My question is there any other small independent manufacturers out there making Colt clones? I would like a little better quality then your basic Uberti/petta and can't afford a Colt. I have about a $1000 - $1500 to spend. Unfortunately I am not comfortable with the feel of the Ruger and really like the true design if the original SAA. Any ideas? Ideally I am looking for a 5.5 Nickel 45 lc. Thanks!
-
Hello, Is there any measurable difference between the Lee's Gunsmithing "Gunslinger" springs vs. the Wolff "Uberti Wire Springs" shooter pak? The design of the two mainsprings are quite different in their approach to lightening the spring tension. Thank you, Deputy Dan
-
Just got a pair of Schofields from another shooter. Was able to shoot one of them since I dropped the other at a holster maker to be patterned. I have no idea how the other shoots, or if it even shoots! The question is since I have no experience with one; Is the primer strike acceptable to be off center? I know the suggestion is to use Federal primers, since I use Winchesters! But, I had a few misfires. They would go off after the second hit. I only had maybe 3 misfires out of 50 rounds. I removed the grips and side plate, and it was quite dirty inside. I cleaned it all up, and lubed the moving parts. I haven't shot it yet to see if that improved it or not! Another thing is the barrel hinge bolt/screw will not loosen. It will just turn, and the back up nut will not remain locked down, so I figure the tab has been twisted off. Any suggestions on holding the head while in-screwing the screw? And one more thing! Under the grip at the main spring tensioner screw, there is a piece of plastic pinched between the screw, and the spring! Is this a modification to make the main spring stiffer? Thanks in advance for any insights! Pp
-
Uberti / Cimarron's Expertly Tuned and Short Stroked by Ken Griner of Griner GUNWORKS: 1873 Short Rifle .357 / .38 CA271 $1620.00 1873 Short Rifle - Pistol Grip .357 / .38 CA213 $1690.00 1873 Texas Brush Popper .357 / .38 CA2022 $1620.00 1873 Texas Brush Popper - Pistol Grip .357 / .38 CA2025 $1690.00 1873 Short Rifle 45LC CA281 $1620.00 1873 Texas Brush Popper - Pistol Grip 45LC $1690.00 We have other rifles in stock ready to be tuned and short stroked. It only takes a short 3-6 weeks for Griner GUNWORKS to complete. We also have a pair of Vaquero's .357 4.62" barrel - Tuned and Ready to Ship! $1500.00 for the pair! And an 1878 Coachgun Tuned with reversed triggers -Ready to go! $715.00 Call us at 970-385-4141 or visit our Website http://evilroy.com
-
Quick question: I'm looking to buy a new '73 and I'm wondering what the difference between the Winchester/Miroku and the Uberti actually is. What is the preferred version? What makes one better than the other? And is there even a big defference other than the $100 price difference to have the name " WInchester" on it?
-
Hey guys, i'm thinking about getting into the world of single action revolvers. have done quite a bit of research and have narrowed down the caliber i want but need some info on one important subject, Brand. I like the Ruger Vaquero for the contact bar type firing pin, but when i went to get more info from bass pro shop (only gun related place near me) i was told that more and more people are going with Uberti's, and a reason people might like the Vaquero due to the extra firing pin and safety parts compared to a Uberti. Can anyone give a new guy some helpful advice? thanks very much
-
I wanted to start a little discussion here about the 1873. In particular, I would like to talk about some of the advantages and disadvantages of both the Winchester model and the Uberti. One of these rifles is in my future. Which one is still up for debate. What I do know that is a disadvantage of the WInchester is both the availability and the limited choices. So if all those folks that love the 1873 can chime in and talk about which models they have and why, barrel lengths, cost of upgrades and maintenance, looks of course, and anything else that comes to mind I'd greatly appreciate it. I especially want to hear from those that have both brands and their thoughts. Also, I plan to get mine in either 45 colt or 44-40. I shoot mostly 45 Colt right now, but I would not be opposed to using the 44-40 in this particular gun and also expanding my reloading repertoire.
-
Hi all! Got a noobie question and I could use an education. What are the real differences between buying an (1873 type) Uberti directly and buying a Taylor's & Co. or Cimmaron? I ask for your forgiveness in advance if this topic has been covered and beaten to death already. --Ferrit P.S.- I do realize also that Taylor's & Co. and Cimarron are special importers of Uberti and Pietta pistols. But I work in a gunshop and we just became an Uberti dealer.
.thumb.jpg.4664516eadb922e0848703ee4fbb3368.jpg)
