Go West
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Posts posted by Go West
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If the timer didn't malfunction (all shots were recorded), no forced reshoot or a punitive spirit of the game penalty for not wanting to do it again.
Now if someone covered the port to game the system by preventing additional shots and time, ban the TO and the shooter from the club.
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Never had any, but their actions were very sweet on those I handled.
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I saw an ad for 9 mm cylinders from Sportsmans Outdoor Superstore at $110. 9 mm would be cheap to shoot and two cylinders would be cheaper than new guns. Just a thought.
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When I handed guns over to a gunsmith I told them that I used Winchester primers. In recent years I've had to buy whatever brand I could find and they've all worked until last month on my 73 short rifle. A small turn of the screw on the mainspring stopped that. That rifle is 15 years old (?) and evidently the spring weakened slightly. On the other hand, I'm not very fast so whatever works for you.
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I wouldn't worry about whether primers are magnum or not. Use small or large as you need to and what is available. It may matter if you use them for purposes other than cowboy. Then it would be wise to check your manual. The big thing is whether your guns are set up with light springs requiring Federal primers or not.
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I spray my case lube in the case feeder and let the mixing spread it around. I use it on all my cases run in my 650 and appreciate the lessened effort especially on runs of 1K or more. It really helps on brand new brass and yes, I do use carbide dies (Lee). I dry tumble with paint thinner and NuFinish. I don't notice dry powder residue unless I leave a batch in the media after tumbling.
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Carbines are lighter. One thing to consider is caliber as .38/.357 is cheaper to shoot.
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Way back when I used them in pistols, but have settled on 125 gr. for both rifle and pistol. You can load the 92's light, but you may get misses that are undeserved by spotters who rely on sound.
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Pictures help with mechanical issues.
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I bought a baby jogger for $20 and put this together with scrap wood. The long gun rack comes out and the ammo tray and cooler box do as well. The pins holding the gun rack were made with bolts with a hole at the end for pins. It all folded up and fit in a subcompact car trunk. I replaced it last year with a Rugged Gear cart I paid $60 for. It came with no flat tire inserts. I got rid of the fabric piece over the front wheel with a wooden box.
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I ordered 5K of Magtech LPP from them for $320 a couple of days ago. You're lucky you're close by.
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I balk at primers costing $100 and up.
The meaning of CATEGORY is any of several fundamental and distinct classes to which.......But let's not quibble. -
It is common to have brand new guns worked on to enhance operation, but a new gun should work when new. Your call to Stoeger was a good idea before it was modified.
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Welcome.
There is information to be found online about SASS and CAS that can be useful. Check the SASS rulebook which will explain the various classes and requirements. One thing to consider is that Large Pistol Primers have been scarce and expensive which may or may not continue. .38/.357 is less expensive to shoot whether you reload or not.
I get the buy once, cry once philosophy, but depending on your situation, you can purchase some key equipment that will last a lifetime and save money on others you can replace later. If you are handy, you can make an inexpensive gun cart. Look online for designs and ideas. I made one with a baby jogger ($20) and some scrap wood.
Hats- a decent straw is cheap and will work year round.
Don't be in a rush to get everything, you'll have a more harmonious outcome.
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That's strange. I've used Lee dies for decades without that issue. Like someone said, you may have debris in your die(s).
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I shot a pair of 5" Uberti top breaks for several years as a duelist shooter. My forearms would tire before the match ended so I ordered a pair of new springs and then ground the springs. They were useful when we used to do pistol reloads, but haven't done any in years.
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Ann Juan
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Wow, that's quite a list.
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My wife has a .38 Special AWA that she loves. It does develop issues over time, but Lassiter gets it back into shape. It probably needs some massaging every 5 years or so. Yes, she slam fires.
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Sass Alias: Go West & Aim Me West
SASS #- 43710 & 44806
Location- Arizona Territory
How Long CAS Shooting- since 2002
SASS folks are the best. See ya on the trail!
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Hi Roger, would you send the booklet to me as a message or the email link below? Thanks
j.schorman@outlook.com
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'92 carbines are the movie and TV guns, which is what aroused my interest. Although some guns may be finicky with ammo, it is usually the .38/.357 that is most finicky. My .45 will chamber empty brass and is not picky about 180, 200, 240 or 250 gr bullets. Congrats on your purchase.
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My hearing loss is primarily in the upper register, a range often used by women's voices. That means I have an excuse when I can't hear the wife.
Many insurance companies pay some up through all of the cost, depending. A good audiologist will be experienced in submitting claims since few rely on cash customers. -
After a hearing test with an audiologist, I went with Oticon. First it was one ear, then I added the other a few years later. They are adjustable with Bluetooth. I hear pretty well with only a few sound sources, but noisy environs like restaurants, etc. are pretty bad. Some of the things I think I hear from the TV are pretty comical, like "reptile dysfunction."
At matches, I pull one earplug out to hear instructions and conversations. They were spendy for the insurance company, but no cost to me.
W231
in SASS Wire
Posted
I've used quite a variety over the years due to price and availability. I'm currently using 231 again after not using it for years due to.......wait for it........ price and availability. Think of it as an opportunity to record your loads for the next time you come across it. You can include notes about it such as noting whether a load or powder is cold sensitive or not.
I see very large groups on SASS targets for the most part, not quarter size groups.