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Sam Sackett

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Posts posted by Sam Sackett

  1. Not sure that Unique will work very well for light loads. I think 22 grains in a 12 ga 1oz load will run around 1200 fps. Win LN/LR is a couple hundred fps slower than that. Even the 22 grain load runs pretty dirty, and if you reduce powder it will get even dirtier. 
     

    Most books I have looked at list Unique for 1200 fps plus, and loads of 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 oz. 
     

    Maybe someone knows better?  Hopefully?..

     

    If you can come up with a faster powder such as Clays or Red Dot, you can load 13 to 14 grains with 3/4 oz of shot. I use those loads and think they may be a little lighter than the Win Ln/LR.  

     

    San Sackett 

    • Thanks 1
  2. I use the old standby ..  Saddle Soap. Easily available and easy to apply. Refresh as needed. My leathers are black and have not faded, so I don’t know if it will help with the coloration, but it does seem to refresh the leather pretty well. 
     

    Sam Sackett 

  3. Scarlet,  I’m sorry for your loss and feel a bit of your pain. I know I trust the cow folks I have had the pleasure to shoot with. It saddens me that someone would steal an item from the Lost & Found.  If it’s yours, take it. If it’s not KEEP YOUR DAMN HANDS OFF OF IT,  

     

    Hopefully the skunk will see these posts and feel guilty enough to send it back to you.


    I’m truly sorry for your loss,

    Sam Sackett 

    • Like 3
  4. I replaced my New Vaquero original springs with Wolfe 19/30 springs. Have had no issues with FTF with any brand of primers. Have used CCI, Winchester and Federal. They all went bang except for a couple when I dragged my thumb on the hammer. That I can’t blame on the primer. 
     

    Sam Sackett 

    • Like 1
  5. I have to load mine at 1.530” for my Interarms Rossi. That is usually right at the top of the lube groove. Only issue with this is that the crimp doesn’t hold a lot of pressure on the bullet, so most powders will give a dirty burn resulting in sooty cases. No problem with setback as long as the crimp tucks into the lube groove a tad. 
     

    Chootem,
     

    Sam Sackett 

  6. I have one of the early Interarms imported Rossi 92’s. It’s my main match gun. It’s very slick and I have had no issues once I found the right cartridge length and bullet noses.  It really likes the Lee 125 RF and also does well with a TC bullet. Keep the OAL at around 1.535” and it doesn’t care whether it’s 38 or 357 brass. Just load to that length and crimp where it may. Usually right at the top of the lube groove. 
    I like it so much I bought a Browning B92 to keep it company. I like the old Rossi better though. 
     

    Sam Sackett 

    • Like 1
  7. I agree. This isn’t the first Stoger that wasn’t inletted enough. This allows the recoil forces to hit there, instead of inside on the anchor lug. Relieve the inletting and get those forces moved back inside where they belong. Once that is done and the stock is bedded into the anchor lug, glue and pin the cracked area. Should last a long time. 
     

    Sam Sackett 

    • Like 1
  8. I would not recommend that you remove any material from the top of the locking lugs on the barrel. My Stoeger did this same thing. Popping open after the first shot and then not firing the second barrel. My issue was that the sliding locking lug was not traveling far enough into the barrel lugs. 
     

    Please read this posting before you go any farther. It is tough to understand what they are saying, until at a point you will have an AHA moment. 

    http://marauder.homestead.com/files/Stoeger2.html

     

    The fix for mine was to remove material from the front of the top of the sliding locking bar. (The part that rides against the opening lever shaft) This is the point where it rides on the vertical stem attached to and actuated by the top external locking lever that you hit with your thumb, causing the sliding locking bar to move rearward. This allows the bottom locking bar to slide farther forward and engage deeper into the barrel lugs. Take some off, put it all back together and try to open the gun. If it opens, take it back apart and take more material off. At some point, you may find that it will not open when you push the release lever. Then it’s time to work on the barrel lugs. Don’t take anything off the TOP of the barrel lugs. This will just loosen up your gun. Take some material off of the REAR of the barrel lugs. Mine only needed material removed from the front barrel lug. Keep blackening the top of the barrel lugs each time you reassemble and try the fit. You should see the sliding lug moving farther up onto the barrel lugs as you progress. You will reach a point that you have a tiny bit of play when you push the release lever. That’s the time to stop. 
    Once you have done this, you can actually lighten the spring on the lever lock and the gun will stay closed during firing.

     

    Again,  read the Marauder page first. What I have written is what I understood from the verbiage there. Please take this with a grain of doubt. I am not a gunsmith, just a guy who is handy with tools and dumb enough to try. This worked for me, hopefully it will for you. 
     

     

    • Thanks 1
  9. Dakota,. Appreciate the offer. Wear size large shirts. Boots I'm good on. I am going in for shoulder surgery today, so will be out of shooting for a while. I'll try to show up at a few shoots and spot of something. I'll see you in West Point and we can discuss the .  Thanks again, Sam. 

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