Renegade Plowboy

Yup. However they do plainly in raised lettering state what the can is meant for. Blue says Kerosene, Yellow says Diesel. At least that’s the cans around my place. Drinking water jugs are blue as well, however they are of a completely different design that I have seen and experienced.

With all the previous comments outta the way, now more towards your original question with your current heating system. Pros : Can hook the heat exchanger module (like a heater core in an auotomobile) from outside furnace into you existing central heating ac unit, and use existing wall mounted theromstat to control temp of house just like your current electric system. This is presuming you have central heating and or ac system and not seperate base board heating and mini spilt ac system. If your wall mounted thermostat is capable, you could also still keep the electric system and have it set as a backup heat source in the event you skip town for a few days and don't have anyone to tend your fire. House temperature regulation is just as easy as the electric heating system. You still get instant heat when you want it by adjusting the thermostat. No waiting on a fire or heating coils to warm up first. Oustide wood burner means all the mess from burning wood is outside the house. No bark, wood debris, or possible bugs from the firewood to deal with in the house. All ashes, and ash dust when removing them, are already outside so no mess inside from them either. No worries about carbon monoxide from any burning substance (wood or propane) building up inside the house. No exhaust systems/vents from these systems to maintain either. House insurance shouldn't go up with instalation of outdoor burner, it might if you decided to go with an indoor wood burner or propane. Can hook into house water heater circuit and have HOT hot water. Summer when not burning wood, just close valve to outside furnace circuit and just use normal electric for hot water heater. In event of a power outage, a much much smaller generator, or solar panel set up, would be enough electric to operate the circulation pump and draft door solenoid as compared to the electric heating coils in the electric heating system. Both would still require the same current for the air blower motor to distribute the heated air in the house. You get a new excuse to get out of the house for a few hours at a time to stockpile wood for the next season. You get ALOT more exercise from cutting and stockpiling wood verses picking up the phone to call for propane. Also, you never have to argue with the propane supplier that your tank is empty, or close to empty, when their computer estimater says you should still have 25% in your tank and your good for another 2 weeks. You never have to wait on the propane supplier to show up and fill your tank either. You have a good reason, aka excuse, to get out the the conversation in the house that you never wanted to be in, or leave someone elses house when not enjoying yourself, for same reason. If your like us it's kind of a family affair so dad, brothers and myself sometimes get together and cut a bunch at a time together. We do enjoy that. Much faster also, especialy with a tractor and loader. Cons: You have to go outside and tend the fire at least once daily durring the seasons your runing it no matter the weather. Some folks must tend it twice a day, depending on size of outdoor wood burner and load on the outdoor wood burner. Rain, snow, sleet, wind, storm, darkness of night, or calm and sunny, If its cold outside and you want heat, you gotta add wood to the fire. You do have to source the wood your going to use wheather it be cord wood, or slab wood, your buying it already processed or going to the woods or mill to cut it yourself. You should be doing this a year in advance so the wood can dry down, aka cure, making it more efficant to burn. If you do get one of the newer models (probably only thing available now, I know in Central Boilers case the newer more efficant models are all you can get) you do need to have dry, cured wood. If you burn wetter or "greener" wood, you will have more creesote buildup in the flues and will have to clean it out more and have more upkeep. You do have some transportation, fuel, equipment (chainsaw, wood splitter, truck/trailer ect, ), and storage space for your stockpile expence. Keeping the wood under cover, but not airtight, helps it to dry and keep it dry so it burns better. You have to dedicate time to sourcing and making the stockpile. You still need a small amout of electric in the event of a power outage to make the heat in the burner, tranpsort the heated water to heat exchanger in the house, and run the blower motor to distribute the heat. An indoor add on wood burner in a basement can function 100% without electric, you just wouldn't get as good of heated air movement throughout the house, but it would keep the house warm.

Mine is a Central Boiler model. It was specially ordered as a dual fuel model. It can be set up with a burner inside to burn fuel oil, waste oil, kerosene, NG, or Propane with the correct burners. However, we never added the backup fuel source burners. Original intention was for used engine oil, but we haven’t gotten that kind of supply yet. Brush piles eat up most of that, lol. if you had a sawmill close by that you could get there outer slabs from for cheap, those do work well and are usually CHEAP for what you get and how much heat you will get from them. You just have to cut the long slabs down to pieces short enough to fit in your furnace.

What do you heat with now? They do require a small amount of electricity for the draft door, when open, and for the constant recirculation pump, and then the blower motor in the house if you use a central heating and ac ducting for your house. Also, you can plumb in a heat exchanger with your tank style water heater and heat your house water as well. Depending on your hot water consumption, you could see hot water temps as high as your outdoor wood furnace water temp, 160-185* depending on what you set your outdoor furnace water temp at. Heating your hot water with outdoor furnace will probably keep your water heater from ever kicking on, I flip my breaker off, so you would save that electricity money which probably more than offsets the cost of the draft door and circulation pump. Biggest downside, when sized properly for heating load and burn efficacy, you will have to tend the fire and add wood once every day. So if traveling for the weekend or more you will need someone to tend it for you, or have a backup source of heat for your house. if you have the time, ability, and supply of wood to use as a heat source then I say yes they are worth it. But I have no $$ figures to prove it.

A Blessed and Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours FKCGG, and also to all a y’all in the saloon as well.

It’s always the second liter that gets ya!!

Here is more, 5 minutes, of the interview. Yes, it’s a bit edited, I couldn’t find the whole unedited version. You get to hear some from all 4.

If the longer ammo works good in your rifles, shoot it in the rifles till gone. Just load new ammo for your pistols. If the short ammo length that is needed for your new pistols doesn’t cycle well in your rifles then you will need to load different lengths for those pistols verses the rifles. Rifles are length sensitive for proper feeding, too short is just as bad as too long.

Browning hold there value, and seem to increase more than inflation. The Citori XT is really nice! The BT 99/100 are nice as well. If you wanna be serious with shooting trap, gun fit is a lot more important than in Cowboy. Some dealers will allow you to shoot before you buy also.

Now hold on boys, If'n I read right its just in a medically induced coma till ol PWB gets some clarification. Then he might revive it and then you might need to double your bets on how far it will go! Unless'n o course he just teases us with a posted update and then overdoses it into the afterlife.

Glad you got it opened. Your posted pictures for comparison really helped. I’ll be honest on saying I’m pretty novice on the inner workings of a 97. If’n I’m not mistaken, Classic Old West Arms has some pretty good tutorials on YouTube or maybe his business page that might help you. Hickok45 has some great YouTube videos on it as well. However, if’n I was in your shoes at this point, I’d be looking up a competent gunsmith for the 97’s and let them do their thing. They work really well when they work. But we run them super hard so knowing what to maintain and when is key. Bonus, the last SASS shooting gunsmiths I had do some work on my guns they shared and showed me what they did so I could better maintain it myself. Good luck!

1) The top gun the carrier is not up far enough. Compare it to the lower and you’ll see the difference. 2) make sure the bogered up flat head screw on the side of the bolt that you see through the ejection port is tight, and also is not contacting the ejection port. I have experienced this screw coming loose and it locking up the 97 a couple times, as well as a fellow shooters 97. It looks to me by the pictures that the bogered up flat head screw in the top gun is loose and backed out just enough to interfere and is what has caused your lockup.

Is your a straight stock or deluxe (pistol grip) stock? Has the action been worked over and/or short stroked? I bought my 73 with deluxe stock used from a gun store and that lever lock is useless, it actually gets in the way and you can not lock the lever closed with it. The lever is too close to the rotating lock. My gun has been previous worked over, but I don’t know by whom, and couldn’t say if it’s even the stock original lever. So if you get that lock and it doesn’t operate correctly you won’t be the only one.

For that price I’d be buying some for my small primer needs for Cowboy. That is if’n you use small primer ammo.

How many thousands did you buy? You should go back and buy more!