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Son of the Midnight Star

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Posts posted by Son of the Midnight Star

  1. 22 hours ago, Charlie Plasters, SASS#60943 said:

    Anyone thinking that self regulation by switching to fiber or other eco friendly wads will keep politicians from legislating a ban is smoking wacky weed!

    Just like voluntary regulation of anything gun related. the whack job anti gunners and politicians will come after what ever will get them reelected 

  2. 7 minutes ago, Warden Callaway said:

    There is a push to outlaw drinking straws.  Save mother nature.  But when mother nature slammed the eastern coast line with a hurricane,  some 500 million plastic bottles of water were shipped to the area. 


    Do away with fast food places would probably cut plastic in half.  We live about 10 miles south of town.  The first mile down the blacktop is always littered with MacDonald trash. 

    Yeah there are a lot of so called "do gooders" on this planet that would step on a baby turtle to pick a piece of litter out of the ocean. 
    People need to look at the big picture and do better everyday in every aspect of life. Banning straws will have an effect. About .00001% of an effect but an effect none the less.all while we drown in plastic bottles and fast food trash. 

  3. until plastics have a good recycling program in place everywhere we will continue to have plastics in the oceans and land fills. The problem is not the material. It's how it's handled and how it's disposed of. Until that changes nothing is going to happen

    We shoot lead bullets and shot out of our guns and Plastic is the problem?? like I said It's not the material it's how it's handled. 


  4. well just a guess but my 45 colt loads are right about 100 fps faster out of the rifle. I shoot nearly the same load you do. but I use a 180g and a 250g bullet.  I shoot 6 grain of trail boss and get 850 FPS out of the rifle with the 180g bullet and just over 750 out of the pistol. 
    Interestingly I get a higher velocity with a heavier bullet out of the rifle and i would attribute that to higher pressure and a cleaner burn 

  5. 2 hours ago, Warden Callaway said:

    Here is another wrinkle.   Why I'm using a Lee powder through die when loading BlackMZ. 




    The inside diameter of the Dillon die is .284. The inside diameter of the Lee is .318.  The BlackMZ bridges up in the Dillon funnel.  Never a problem with the Lee. 


    I have a small lathe. Has anyone been successful at opening up a Dillon funnel?   

    Dillon hardens the funnels. You need a carbide reamer to do it. 

  6. 1 hour ago, Warden Callaway said:


    If I understood you,  you were offering to make me an adapter to use a Lyman 55 measure on a Dillon powder die.  I can and have used the Lyman 55 measure on my 550B using a Lee powder through die.   But thanks for the offer.  


    I really don't have a problem to solve.  The 550B is now set up with the issued Dillon automatic powder measure and powder die and adjusted.  Ready to run. 


    This winter I'm going to make some mods to make the process of changing out the powder die less of a pain.



    What was being offered was a single powder die that would be able to use both the Dillon and the Lyman.

    no powder die swap, no powder funnel swap. 

    But you have it under control. 

    Have a good one


  7. 4 hours ago, Warden Callaway said:


    Extra tool heads and extra powder die bodys I have.  I just ain't gonna' make up two sets of heads, dies, measures for the same caliber when all it takes is changing out the powder die and measure.  


    The other way is easy.  The old 450 fixed funnel die - just screw it in and adjust it like any simple press.   Set the measure on top and bolt it down.  Check powder drop and you're good to go. 

    Something real simple would be an adapter to go from your Lyman 55 to the Dillon powder die. Buy that quick change deal or not and just swap. 

    If you need an adapter made I need to know how your lyman 55 mounts to the drop tube or press. I could make you a funnel that would sit inside the Dillon die and attach to your powder measure. that would solve all your problems. or if the thread were large enough on the lyman hopper I could make you a internally threaded Dillon powder die that you could use for both if the fit is correct. need to see what the threads are on the lyman 55 mount. 

  8. I own two Mernickel rigs One was bought a few years back and is my Wild bunch rig and the other is my double strong side rig made just a few months ago. Very good quality work and great prices


  9. Swapping dies and setting up the powder measure is not the hard.  Adjusting the bell can be time consuming but not tough nor frustrating. 

    the first thing I do is get the sizing die set up then I drop in the powder die and funnel and set the powder measure on top, install the clamp but only start the threads on the screws.  This allows you to spin the powder die up or down to adjust the bell. once that is set i snug the lock nut then I set the bullet seating depth right after I confirm the powder charge. 

    takes me about 20-30 minutes to swap a caliber, an hour if I have to swap primer sizes. 

    That said I have two 550B's bolted to the bench one set up of large primers and one set up for small. I also have about 24 tool heads and three powder measure that I swap around. 

    • Like 1

  10. 2 hours ago, Happy Jack, SASS #20451 said:

    Simple fix,  buy an extra toolhead.

    Yep. stop swapping crap out and just buy a new tool head

    A 550B is a production tool, not a single stage. yes it's a pain to set up, but that's once. I've got 24 tool heads that are swapped between two machines, an accumulation over the last 30 years. yes it's expensive, yes it time consuming to set up. All production machines are. 
    Buy and extra tool head and all the extra parts needed and stop swapping parts

    • Like 1

  11. if it was deleted it was deleted for a reason. I don't see to much of that going on. 

    posts threads move up and down the board as other threads take the top spot and push everything else down.  you can always save the thread to a reading list on the computer or they may have a subscribe feature you can use. 

    • Like 1

  12. 3 hours ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:


    Well, that would make a little more sense.


    If, MS, you are hitting the bolt tab with the  case rim as a new round is lifted up, you have a bad interference!   That will end up bending the cartridge tab upwards, making ejection difficult or breaking the tab off!    This timing problem would need to be fixed.  Going faster will just add more energy to any impact between case rim and bolt tab, making it more likely to snap off the tab.   Lifter is coming up too fast.  Usually fixed by filing smore more off of the contact pad that drives the lifter arm upward.


    Good luck, GJ

    Yeah I was referring to loading. 


    In tinkering with it tonight, it only took two more try’s to get it perfect. Now the bolt slides back, the carrier rises and hits nothing on the way and the rounds nearly fall into the chamber by themselves and this is in a muzzle level to up condition. 

    All it needed was just a little more massaging. 


    Thanks pards for the help. 

  13. 2 hours ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:


    Well, that would make a little more sense.


    If, MS, you are hitting the bolt tab with the  case rim as a new round is lifted up, you have a bad interference!   That will end up bending the cartridge tab upwards, making ejection difficult or breaking the tab off!    This timing problem would need to be fixed.  Going faster will just add more energy to any impact between case rim and bolt tab, making it more likely to snap off the tab.   Lifter is coming up too fast.  Usually fixed by filing smore more off of the contact pad that drives the lifter arm upward.


    Good luck, GJ

    Yeah I was referring to loading. 

    Well I tinker with it this weekend and see what I can do. 

  14. 1 hour ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:


    The 73 is about the most open lever rifle action ever made.  I even take off one side plate and cycle the gun when I find a hangup point that is hard to see.  You will notice any drag in the "carrier returns second round into the magazine" part of the closing lever stroke more when cycling the gun slowly.   You may also notice a hangup when the bolt face just starts to enter the rear of the lifter (carrier block) if the timing is just slightly off or the upward stop position of the lifter is slightly too high.


    Since the moving parts are so easy to see in toggle guns, the usual way I spot problem areas is to look even harder at the "usual suspect" points in the action where binding, interference, snagging and other rubbing can take place, and watch and feel for jerky or harder motion as you slow cycle past those suspects.  Of course, running the gun for a hundred (or two) rounds and looking for rub marks in the bluing is another way, but that requires a tear down and inspection of all the action parts....   Use all your tricks and senses when timing a toggle action!


    Good luck, GJ



    Mine just hangs up right as the bolt is near full retract and the carrier is trying to clear the bolt, the case just catches the bottom of the bolt.  If i cycle the bolt with a little more authority it works fine but slow it down and it catches. Rifle might have 200 round through it. Time to break it out and play with it some more and maybe file on it to get the timing better. 
    Thanks for the tips. 

  15. 2 hours ago, Cypress Sam, SASS #10915 said:


    Do this!  Good info.  GJ always has good info.


    Pay special attention to the cycle slowly part.  Cartridge cases have rims of varying shapes and diameters.  Some have beveled edges on the rim and some don’t.  When setting up the timing, you want to find an example of the largest diameter rim and having the least bevel.  Check out a couple of dozen cases of various manufacture should give a good approximation.


    For the “Slow Cycle” part, hold the gun up at about a 45 degree angle and watch the case rim as you slowly bring the lifter up.  The edge of the case rim must completely miss the tab on the bottom of the bolt every time, all the time.  (If it doesn’t, the tab will break off sooner or later.)


    As Null ‘N Void said, be sure to check it again after it wears in a while.

    Ok So you want it to be able to cycle slow and fast. 
    My rifle only cycles fast and hangs up just a touch when cycled slow. I did the timing work and it appears now it needs some more. (learning here)
    Pioneer gun works full supper short stroke kit and all the reduced springs etc. 

  16. 9 hours ago, Dutch Al #22045 said:

    When I bought my first Sharps 1874, I had the choice of Shiloh, or C Sharps.  At that time, Shiloh was quoting a 4 year wait for their rifle.  Or I could go across the street and get a C Sharps in 6 months.  I  went to C Sharps, and met with John Schoffstall.  John helped me order an 1874 rifle, a 45-70.  John was very helpful, offering guidance, but not pushing me into some choice.  He is a great guy, and I really like him.  When the rifle arrived, it was really nice.  Well built, really good wood to metal fit.  Perhaps a year later, I met a shooter at our range, with two Shiloh Sharps.  I looked over his rifles, and they didn't look any better than my C. Sharps.  John Schoffstall's estimate of 6 months was incorrect.  He delivered the rifle to me in just over 5 months!  At the time C. Sharps built my rifles, they were using Badger barrels.  Badger had a reputation for producing fine, high quality match barrels, but unfortunately they went out of business.  The good news is, I have Badger barrels on both my rifles.  And they do shoot.  It don't get much better than that.


    When I was looking to buy a 40 caliber rifle, I had read about the 40 Sharps Straight.  It was highly praised by some BPCR shooters.  When I talked to John Schoffstall, I asked for his recommendation on which 40 caliber cartridge.  John told me the 40-70 SS was indeed a great cartridge, but he told me it wasn't very forgiving of differences in loading tolerances.  John said the most forgiving 40 caliber cartridge was the 40-65.  I decided to go with his recommendation.  John was true to his word, the 40-65 is an easy cartridge to load for.  And it shoots every bit as good as the 45-70.  So what's not to like about that?  I can't speak for really long range, but the 40-65 works quite well up to 550 yards. 


    When I read the above thread, about Shiloh charging $200 to bump someone up on the waiting list, I found that disgusting.  When a person orders a rifle, and is quoted a delivery time, it seems unethical (if true) they would let someone jump ahead of you for a fee.  About 17 or 18 years back, I corresponded with a gentleman on the SASS wire.  He related his experience with Shiloh to me.  He had paid a deposit, and received a delivery date of approximately two years.  He then said that every six months or so, Shiloh would notify him that the delivery date had been bumped out, and if he wanted to stay on the waiting list, he would have to pay more deposit.  I am repeating this as hearsay, but based on other stories I've heard about Shiloh, I have no reason to doubt his story.  he said it took him more than 4 years to get the rifle he ordered.  SHEEESH!  I just couldn't deal with junk like that. 


    Needless to say, I went across the street to C. Sharps, and never once regretted my decision.  The folks at C Sharps are just great to deal with.  They've never said a thing to me that wasn't 100% true.  They were very helpful, working with me and advising me so I would get the features I needed on a rifle.  I've had a lot of enjoyment from shooting those rifles, and I credit their assistance with contributing to that.  

    It's not Shiloh that bumps you. It's a private individual that has deposits in place. You buy a ticket in line from him not Shiloh. No one is getting bumped ahead of anyone. You just buy a rifle that he has a deposit on. and due to Shiloh's policy you can make a change to the order right up until it goes into production. The deposit was in place for about 18 months in most cases. When you order your rifle from Bill Goodman you pay him a deposit, he places the order on the next rifle he has headed to production and you wait 4-10 months depending on Shiloh's production schedule. Everyone that placed and order 18 months prior is still in the same queue, no one jumped ahead of anyone. Bill Goodman just sold his place in line for a modest fee. 

    Think about what you wrote too. In one paragraph you criticize Shiloh (incorrectly) for allowing people to be bumped then immediately complain about a person's wait of four years to get a rifle??  Let me tell you after Quigley came out in 1990 Shiloh had a four year wait all the way up to about 2005. They still claim 14-18 months but in reality it's more like two years. and that can change at any moment and more so now that the company is up for sale. 

    • Like 1

  17. 1 hour ago, Griff said:

    Hmmm... and their website sez founded in 1975, and they've "... been in the Sharps rifle business for over 35 years..." maybe more convoluted that we both figure.



    Could very well be. I did read that the Shiloh company has been sold a couple times and moved once. From their web site they started their own foundry in 1996 so prior to that they were farming that out. 

    So lets leave it at Shiloh and C Sharps has been around for a while and have had a very mixed relationship 

  18. 25 minutes ago, El Hombre Sin Nombre said:

    I have one, but had to wait two years for it to be built. Would be great to skip to the front of the line whenever I wanted. 

    talk to Bill Goodman of Shiloh Ballard, For $200 he bumps about 14 months off the wait. well worth it. the wait ends up being 6-10 months instead of two years. 

  19. 5 hours ago, Griff said:

    Since C. Sharps was formed when the partnership that was Shiloh broke up... I don't see that as happening.  

    Well that can't be since C sharps was founded in 1979 and Shiloh was founded in 1983 there's a four year gap

  20. OLG I read in a gun rag that C sharps used to supply raw actions to Shiloh. It could have bee something made up by the writer but i for sure remember that being the case. 

    As for firing a 45-110 no I have no but i regularly shoot a 458 Lott with 500gr DGS bullets doing 2270 fps I don't see a 540 gr paper patched bullet doing 1500 fps being much of a challenge. My Quigley rifle should be completed in November according to Shiloh. I bought my spot in line through Bill Goodman and only have a 10 month wait instead of two years. I already have paper patched bullets from Montana bullets, I have my brass from Norma, and I have a list of load data from Kenny Wasenberger

  21. 1 hour ago, Cholla said:

    Two Questions:


    if if you were to start fresh, what caliber Sharps would you get? I have a bunch of new .45-70 brass and dies so that’s the way I’m leaning. 


    Isn’t C Sharps and Shiloh Sharps two separate companies? I see two rifles on Gunbroker that have Shiloh and C Sharps markings. I assume someone has swapped barrels, which concerns me. 


    My goal is to do the long range matches in Arizona at Winter Range (I think).

    back in the day Shiloh used to buy their action from C.  Sharps. I don't know when Shiloh started to make their own actions. 

    Question is are you going to shoot Black powder or smokeless, as that right there would determine case length for me. 
    If I was shooting smokeless I'd go 45-70 if I was shooting black powder i'd go 45-100 minimum and 45-110 for sure. 

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