Tequila Shooter

Both @Ol Number4 and @Sedalia Dave reasons why if you’re doing BPCR for accuracy at range you need to cast your own. That’s not saying that commercial suppliers are making an inferior bullet, but as Dave pointed out it’s a cost vs quantity issue. Even casting my own with a one cavity mold and pouring with a ladle I still get weight variances which is why I have @La Sombra weigh each and every round. And as Ol Number 4 said any lube that comes out of the barrel is wasted and has the potential to effect accuracy. IMHO and YMMV

First off it couldn’t be that many years ago, you’re too young. Anyway, in today’s, shall we say polite society, I’m surprised we can even say “nipple” in public.

UPDATE Much to my surprise I didn’t have any spare nipples, so I was two nipples short I got some new nipples (they were bright and shiny and looked just a little perky) and this new coppery stuff to keep my nipples from freezing in place. So I coated my nipples in copper and twisted them in until they were all the way down. I guess the next step will be to make sure fire will go through them. BTW if you read this and think dirty thoughts you may not be a Frontiersman.

Last weekend I shot 10 stages with my ROA’s and they ran flawlessly. When I got home I got them out to clean them and one nipple on each cylinder was stuck. As is my normal practice I use anti-seize on every nipple whenever I put them on. The other five on each cylinder came out without issue and all still showed the anti-seize on them. I tried every trick I knew on the other two, soaked them with Kroil, froze them, heated them, and still the two nipples just laughed at me. As you can imagine I don’t liked getting laughed at, so out came the big guns. I had to drill them then use a left handed extractor but that taught them and they gave up the fight. I finished up by getting the correct size tap and chased out all the threads. Next I’ll throw the cylinders and nipples in the ultrasonic cleaner and get them nice and clean again just so I can put antiseize back on them and put them together. Hopefully the other nipples learned a lesson and won’t try to fight me the next time.

Ladle is the way to go.

Ok, let’s start with a little understanding of brass. Brass gets work hardened, what that means is every time you expand or contract brass it gets a little more brittle, or more correctly it loses some ductility. When it gets hard and then suddenly expands it can split or crack. Now how does this affect brass cartridges? Every time you bell the case, every time you crimp the case you are working it and making it harder. What annealing does is re-soften the brass, nothing more, nothing less. You can over anneal, or more correctly, you can overheat the brass when you anneal, if you overheat it the brass the brass will lose all its ductility. Once this happens the brass is ruined and you can never get that ductility back. As far as how often you anneal you can’t do it too often, but there’ll be a diminishing return. Think of it this way with one reloading the brass doesn’t lose much ductility (some but not much), after 5 reloads the brass has lost more. How often you anneal is up to you, as some say they find annealing therapeutic and do it before each reload, others wait until they’ve reloaded the brass a few times. The bottleneck vs. straight wall argument: The thickness of the brass at the end of a bottleneck case is much thinner than a straight wall case. This allows the brass to be able to expand enough to seal the case in the chamber when fired, where a straight wall case with its thicker brass won’t expand as much. With the thinner brass the effect of work hardening will show much sooner than with the thicker brass, keep in mind that the thin brass of the bottleneck case when annealed will get up to temperature sooner than straight walled cases. Can/should straight wall cases be annealed? Of course you can, but will it have a benefit? That will depend on a couple things. As said earlier, if .45C cases are not annealed they won’t expand enough to seal the chamber which will allow blow back into the action. If you are over-belling your cases and then crimping you’ll be causing more hardening and will reach the point where the case can split sooner, so annealing will extend the life of the case. Many shooter will get many reloads from their cases without annealing, and if they are shooting smokeless powder won’t have the blow back fouling of black powder or black powder substitutes, so they choose not to anneal. My primary calibers are .45C and .45-70, in both I’m using black powder, so I anneal them. Since I don’t want to keep track of when a particular case was annealed I anneal every case every time it gets cleaned. And since I’m annealing so much I bought an annealing machine that is easy to use and can adjust to the various cases.

Sorry you can’t sell here.

Both please.

I’d like a regular 12 ga and a 10 ga. For the 10ga let’s go 25-28 shells, I don’t need 50 for 10ga. Thanks again Jake

@Diamond Jake I’ll take one and I’ll pick it up in Wartrace. Do you / can you make one for 10ga?

Ok, I’m going to be the odd man out, I couldn’t get them to work. When I first got my ‘87 back from Lassiter I tried them, I really wanted them to work, I tried adjusting the length, still wouldn’t work. The issue I have is that the sharp edge of the brass would catch in the receiver, so I tried a slight crimp on the shell. That produced a little better result but then they almost impossible to reload, what they really needed was a rolled edge. After all was said and done I gave up and started roll crimping plastic shells and have had 0 feed issues. I’m a little jealous of the folks that get the brass shells to work, but I’ve resined myself to realize that my particular ‘87 just doesn’t like them.

I’ve got a pair of ROAs that have had years of use and the blueing is gone in all the wear areas. Living in south MS, I can say that rust is always present. I always wipe them down with Kroil and it does a decent job, but I still find little spots. I’ve gotten to the point where I’m thinking of getting them hard chromed.

Hoss, I don’t care what anyone says, I’ve had the honor of shooting with you and getting to know you. Let the haters hate, your friends know the real you, a true Cowboy!

Thanks!

@Rancho Roy looking at your load picture and thinking I hope he knows that it’s in the wrong order, but just in case: starting from the bottom powder/nitro card/wad(s)/overshot card/shot/overshot card. To parrot some things lubed wads aren’t necessary and you stand the chance of lube contaminating the powder especially if they are stored in a warm place. @Jackalope’s explanation is very good, but if you want it explained with pictures here’s a good video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_5EEPf0vzE&t=320s put out by Mike Beliveau. Also what @Colorado Coffinmaker said you’d be better off using 777 or better yet APP. Speaking of APP, it is a perfect powder to compare to BP when talking about volume vs. weight. If you compare 3F APP to 3F or even 2F BP you’ll see that there’s no comparison in granule size. Also APP recommends a very light amount of compression, compared to BP. So as you can see the same volume of APP will weigh quite a bit less than BP. Also, the volume of BP can change based on how it’s put into the case, the same grain weight of BP will take up less volume if it is added by drop tube compared to pouring it into a case.