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Dusty Devil Dale

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Posts posted by Dusty Devil Dale

  1. Beekeeper advice to me that works very well:

     

    The dish soap treatment works, if you do it at night when the wasps are mostly at the nest.   Mix about an ounce of soap per 5 gal sprayer.  Use a several gallon weed sprayer, because the wasps will dribble out of the nest for ten minutes or so.  You need to keep up pretty continuous spray at the openings. ( Make sure you find all of the  nest access openings. ) When the soap hits the insects, they just fall to the ground and crawl around until they die.  I have piled up several inches of dead wasps under big nests.  

      DO NOT USE A FLASHLIGHT.  Use car headlamps or a work light at a distance --do not position it near yourself.  The wasps will respond to the light, like daylight, and any escaping wasps will go directly toward the source.  

     

    We routinely get big German yellowjacket nests in the facade buildings at our club range.  Some of them have 10,000 or more individuals.  I go up at night and spray a dozen or so of the nests in advance of our matches.  I've not yet been stung in the process.

    In the past, I used the commercial off the shelf 'blaster" type wasp sprays.  The spray container held just enough to get the whole nest mad, then it ran out.  I usually picked up a sting or two.   The soap is much tamer, safer, and easier --also cheaper and less environmentally toxic.  

     

    The soap also works great when poured into a fire ant nest.  

     

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  2. On 8/4/2023 at 7:16 PM, Johnny Dollar said:

    Do you reload? Or know someone that does?  
    they are easy to make.   Load a round with lead.. no powder and no primer.  Fill the primer pocket with silicone…. File the edge of the rim. 
    I’ve made them. Works great

    Don't do what I did.  Don't unintentionally  drop in a powder charge (w/ no primer), seat a bullet, seal the primer pocket with silicone, then go to a grinder to trim the case rim.  The grinding heat discharged the round in my bare hand.  No pain or injuries, just a blackened hand and jangled nerves.  I never found the empty case or the bullet.  Im sure it could have been much worse -- thinking eyes-- BE SURE TO DISABLE THE POWDER DROP AND VISUALLY CHECK BEFORE SEATING A BULLET.  

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  3. Unless you're super-human, have perfectly working guns, flawless ammo,  and have a LOT of practice time on your hands, don't expect to be shooting very many clean stages under 30 seconds during your first year. 

     

     The practice advice above is all good, but only if you put in the time and expense.  

    Get a good timer that is capable of reviewing split times shot by shot.  Then practice for a time, checking the timer afterwards and recording times for pistol, rifle and shotgun strings,  plus transition times between them.  You will quickly realize where you can cut seconds off your total times.   You will find that transitions and shotgun loading are the big time consumers.  You will not be a fast shooter until you master those two items.  

     

    Pistol and rifle speed will come with practice, as will precision.   But don't neglect transition practice. 

     

    Here are a couple exercises that I found helpful.  

     

    Pistols:  Draw - Fire 1 round -  reholster.  Do it over and over again.  Same for GFs, except fire one rd with each hand.

     

    Rifle:  Dry fire a LOT, until the timing and cadence become natural to you.  Set up a handful of Post-it targets on your living room wall and dry fire away.  ( BE SURE TO DOUBLE-CONFIRM THAT  THE GUN IS UNLOADED-- sounds obvious, but accidents have occurred)

    File the top of the rim off of a dummy/snap cap round so it does not eject when you work the lever, then practice rapid levering and trigger timing.  You need to have your lever-trigger timing under control to avoid jacking out rounds, costing reload time in matches. 

     

    Shotgun:  More time is used for shotgun loading than any other stage activity, so PRACTICE LOADING. 

     

    If shooting a double barrel, hold the open empty shotgun at roughly firing position and repeatedly load the chambers with dummy rounds.  With two shells in-hand, go back and forth from the belt/ bandolier to the chambers,  (never releasing your grip on the shells), and  push them only halfway into the chambers, then back to the belt.  Go back and forth 100 times, then repeat and repeat with multiple sessions until you can hit the chambers every time - with minimal watching.    (Hint:  align the top of the cases to the top curves of the two chambers, then tip them in)

    In this exercise,  you're only developing muscle memory for finding the belt and alignimg shells to the chambers rapidly, so it isn't necessary to take time to release the shells and re-grab them.  Those tasks require different exercises.  Practicing shucking of empties pretty much will  require live fire practice.   

     

    If shooting a 97, load your SG belt with snap caps and repeatedly load the chamber either over the top (left handed) or dropping them in right handed and working the action to chamber, then eject them until you have the motions, positions and timing down.  

     

    There are lots of ways to practice, and I suggest you ask other shooters for advice.  I'm only a medium fast shooter, usually breaking 30 sec in only about 70% of stages and 20 sec in maybe 5%.   The above practice hints were shared with me early on, and I found them helpful.  And they reduced practice cost and reloading time considerably.   Once you reach the plateau where this kind of practice ceases to help you improve further, you're on your own to develop live-fire practice techniques that work for you. 

    Best of luck.  Hope this is helpful.  

     

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  4. I contemplated mounting a taper die on my gun cart, but the cart is already weighted down with more than any sane shooter needs.

    So I wondered how long the taper will last after being sized.

    I machined my own taper die similar to the quickLoader dimensions (stamped it 12 ga to make it legal).

    Then I bought on Ebay ($40) a used MEC 600 Jr loader, stripped off everything except the final crimp station, and mounted my taper die in Station 4 above the other (near) side of the shellplate.  I can quickly re-crimp, then taper/resize the loaded rounds. 

     

    I made measurements, using Rem. STS green cases.

     

    Here is the data-- these are averages, based on 25 rounds.

     

    Factory crimped STS case with no taper:  0.783 across crimp.

     

    Crimp diameters:

    At time of taper resize:  0.749

     

    1 hrs after:  0.749

    12 hrs later:  0.751

    24 hrs later:  0.751

    7 days later:  0.752

    60 days later: 0.755

    90 days later:  0.767

     

    So you be the judge whether or not to carry the taper tool around on your cart.

     

    I note that I ran the measurements between December and March, in cold temperatures (stored in non-heated garage).  Warm season numbers may be very different.

    I've included a couple pics:

    Top shell in top photo is taper-resized.  Lower is simply crimped on my MEC 9000.

    Lower photo shows arrangement on the used press frame.

     

     

     

    20230426_202710.jpg

    20230426_202528.jpg

  5. On 1/17/2017 at 8:34 PM, Yul Lose said:

    Be sure and remove the butt stock if you flush out the rifle and oil it heavily. A lot of the old long guns you see have weakened or ruined stocks because of the fluids that have gravitated into them when the guns were stood up. The stock comes off very easily on Pedersoli Lightnings.

    An easy way to avoid the oiling of rifle and shotgun stocks is to store the guns muzzle down.  It looks funny, but the oil stays on the metal parts, where you intended it to go.   I usually run a swab or bore mop down the barrel after storing for any length of time.   The oil can accumulate and gum up in the chamber.  

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