Dusty Devil DaleMembers
Posts posted by Dusty Devil Dale
Practically everyone at the loading table does things in their own way. Lots of good ideas there.
On 5/4/2023 at 11:02 AM, Eyesa Horg said:
I have the pins, but was gonna try just depriming and running with the soap, lemi shine and strato sheen.
(Others here will disagree)
FWIW, I do not deprime before wet tumbling with either ceramic or steel media. Both media types are much harder than brass and when washed or rubbed together (as occurs when the media cleans the cup), they will remove very small amounts of metal from the insides and bottom of the primer cup. After a number of cleanings, the cups are going to loosen and deepen. The change will be very slight, but the altered dimensions will be slightly beyond their original specs.
The slightly acid solutions used in tumbling (like Lemishine or Stratasheen) also don't do any favors to the inside of the precision-made primer cup.
There really is no need to remove the deposits in the cup. The presence of the primer body during firing prevents very much deposition, and depriming itself removes most of what little is there (take a look in the cup after depriming). I have never had a case where primers could not be fully seated due to residue build-up. However; loose or too- deep primer seating can cause ftf problems in guns with reduced hammer springs.
---- And for me, the extra deprime step was always a PITB.
But I know some folks I'd like to visit with an A-10
No loss as far as I'm concerned. What I saw in watching a couple eposodes was abundantly filthy language, abundant porn, poor understanding of large ranching, and stories that were pretty disjunct. Seemed like a fake reality TV show.
I felt like I needed to go take a shower after watching.
We can do a lot better societally (just MHO) your own mileage may vary.
It could be my shape, but I spend all day pulling my Wranglers up to avoid wardrobe malfunctions. They look to be sewn on a straight tapered manaquin without any real waistline reduction.
Speaking of the zoo, did anybody else in their dingy past ever park at night beside a zoo and blow a predator call?
I did it one night with two carloads of high school friends. It was hilarious! We had the whole zoo screaming!
But soon, a city LEO pulled up behind our cars to seriously (even gruffly) ask what we were doing there. Being honest country kids we told him. He'd never heard of a predator call, so I pulled out my old Circe coyote squealer and blew it for him. The zoo again erupted into a din of roaring, barking, howling, screaming and every possible other noise. At first, he smirked, then broke into uncontrolled belly laughter, leaning over my old pickup in quasi-pain. We knew we weren't going to get arrested at that point.
He went back to his cruizer and we heard him cue his radio. We couldn't hear what was said, but a few minutes later, a second cruiser pulled up, with his supervisor. The Lieutenant knew what a coyote call was, and asked a few questions. The first officer then broke into spontaneous laughter again, quickly joined by his boss and a third officer who accompanied him.
Through the levity, the Lt. told us we would need to move along and cease disturbing the peace, which we politely did.
I often think I would have liked to hear the break room dialog the next day.
So much for my early crime career. Things were very different then - 60 years ago!
Spray oven cleaner -- but don't let it get taken away and used on you.
But I liked the laser sight and cat technique better.
YES and we love it !!!!!!!
We had AT&T since Al Gore first invented the Internet (lol). We got real tired of AT&T poorly maintaining their street DSL lines, dishonest and terrible customer service (having to deal on a 5-hour phone tree with a half-dozen subcontracting companies ; all calling themselves AT&T, but none of them knowing what the other legs were doing--or even how to reach each other), and paying extra for 75 mbps but getting less than 3 (that's THREE!)
We kept them for years because there were no other ISP companies servicing our location.
We finally hung them up and ordered Starlink.
The Starlink package came 3 weeks later. (I understand the wait is longer now, due to Starlink providing equipment free of charge in Ukraine).
Everything was there in the box. It almost sets itself up. You use their phone AP to test reception and select an antenna location. It actually works really well!
I had to build a 45' antenna pole to get above my pecan orchard, but once I had the antenna mounted and the cable brought inside the house, I plugged it in. <15 minutes later I had uninterrupted service at over 75mbps download speed and about half that for uploads. That is with 70' trees still extending well into the antenna field.
It took a few minutes for the antenna to self-rotate and locate satellites. But since then there have been NO down periods or slow downloads/uploads. All of our WIFI equipment auto-connected without any frustration.
I will say it is the best designed, most durable and most honestly represented product that I have bought in a very long time. I ordered it because about 8 or 10 of my neighbors and friends gave very high recommendations. They were not overstating the product.
And if you turn out not to like it, you can send it back-- no questions asked-- for 30 days.
ADDED: I suddenly felt a cold chill and had to look back to be sure I read the OP correctly-- didn't write all of that about Starlink when you were asking about Starline!
I visited my Internist for an annual exam on Monday. Sitting in the examining room, waiting for the Doctor to come in, I noticed a low background noise, "Lub-dub-----Lub-dub -----Lub-dub. Treadmill? Cardiac monitor? Amplified Stethoscope? I spent about ten minutes contemplating the technology.
So when his Medical Assistant came into the room, I asked her.
She listened for a few seconds and responded, "It's the dryer. We're laundering a load of gowns."
So much for high tech.
I contemplated mounting a taper die on my gun cart, but the cart is already weighted down with more than any sane shooter needs.
So I wondered how long the taper will last after being sized.
I machined my own taper die similar to the quickLoader dimensions (stamped it 12 ga to make it legal).
Then I bought on Ebay ($40) a used MEC 600 Jr loader, stripped off everything except the final crimp station, and mounted my taper die in Station 4 above the other (near) side of the shellplate. I can quickly re-crimp, then taper/resize the loaded rounds.
I made measurements, using Rem. STS green cases.
Here is the data-- these are averages, based on 25 rounds.
Factory crimped STS case with no taper: 0.783 across crimp.
At time of taper resize: 0.749
1 hrs after: 0.749
12 hrs later: 0.751
24 hrs later: 0.751
7 days later: 0.752
60 days later: 0.755
90 days later: 0.767
So you be the judge whether or not to carry the taper tool around on your cart.
I note that I ran the measurements between December and March, in cold temperatures (stored in non-heated garage). Warm season numbers may be very different.
I've included a couple pics:
Top shell in top photo is taper-resized. Lower is simply crimped on my MEC 9000.
Lower photo shows arrangement on the used press frame.
Physics dictates that to do the same work with less motion requires more forces to be applied. Semi-automatic guns address that by applying the added forces of gas release or recoil to the work of extraction of spent rounds and clambering of the next.
But for single action guns, ALL short stroke mechanisms are going to require more muscle and better coordination/timing to operate. That means new shooters who are new to their guns and trying to learn with ss kits in place may have more difficulty in developing timing and the other components of error-free shooting.
You will know it when you reach the point that your gun operation speed is disproportionately limiting your shooting speed. That is the time to dive into the world of balancing more force against good technique. Until then, stay focused on becoming a better shooter with any gun -- posture, grip, timing, focus, smoothness of movement, transitions, where to look, efficient target order -- all of that.
1 hour ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:
Haven't seen many pards who believe that a new toggle-link extractor does not need fitting. It's almost always required to have to file/stone at least the tail of the extractor to be able to get the pin into it inside the bolt. And the nose usually needs fitting into the extractor slot in the barrel, too. Many are too long and hit the barrel. Look for run marks. And, yes, if the bottom of the nose lifts the extractor off the rim when round chambers, that should be fixed too. That can be a cause of the extractor "missing" the rim under speed.
And, I rarely remove an extractor "just because it's got time on it." Each removal and reinstallation requires a pretty deep disassembly of the rifle. Often, a little brake cleaner spray and working the extractor will give enough cleanup. I've got a few 15 year old 73s that have never needed the extractor removed for deep cleaning. And that's with the notoriously dirty .45 Colt cartridge. YMMV of course.
good luck, GJ
Thank you. (I was hoping you would clarify)
On 4/24/2023 at 11:55 AM, Make do said:
thanks all-checked for crud none - extractor will not go down into the notch, and it will not hold a shell on the bolt face - so it must be bent ordering a new one and pin to go with it thanks -
The extractor channel is directly against the top edge of the chamber during firing. So any blow-back often is forced right in under the extractor and cooked on.
But also, contrary to common thinking, replacement extractors are not always drop-in parts. They often require some careful fitting.
If the thickened, tapered bead at the front of the extractor is poorly fitted (too long or too vertically thick), the bead can pry the extractor up slightly on full bolt closure, exacerbating the blow-back issue and if severe enough it can cause extraction failure.
It is possible that your gun has had the extractor replaced and poorly fitted.
With the bolt fully closed (no chambered round or case), the extractor needs to remain all the way down in its channel. It should be just 15 or so thousandths shy of making contact with the top REAR of the receiver recess above the chamber face, so the spring extractor can slide up over a case rim during closure. But at full closure, the front top of the extractor bead should rest very close to the front top of the receiver recess, to hold the extractor hook down against the case during firing.
With a chambered round in place, the extractor hook should be resting on the top of the case FORWARD OF THE CASE RIM. The hook needs to be sharp edged, rather than broomed or peened down. Peening can result from the part not being correctly fitted, as above.
Finally, extractors should be removed and cleaned more than once a year, under normal use.
All of the above, PLUS:
the lower extractor tab is not clearly visible in your photo, but it looks a bit broomed off and rounded. It would probably not affect your problem of failed withdrawal of the case from the chamber, but it will affect the flipping of the extracted case clear of the receiver on the forward lever stroke.
(You asked about other things possibly needing attention).
Newer bolts have a removable/replaceable lower extractor tab, but yours doesn't appear to be removable. Options would be to replace the whole bolt assy. ("+- drop-in" and available for about $130) or TIG-repair the existing tab. If you don't have access to a TIG, the bolt replacement is likely going to be cheaper than a gunsmith.
Everybody seems to think they can buy magic shortcuts to the podium.
For a new shooter, short stroked rifles and pistols will offer little improvement, until the shooter has several thousand rounds downrange and has his or her grip, timing, target acquisition, TRANSITIONS, and mind in proper order.
THEN, the various short strokes and other refined gunsmithing work will improve your times. There really is no shorter road around practice. JMHO.
Buy good equipment to begin with, THEN learn to use it, THEN consider making mechanical refinements.
23 minutes ago, Abilene Slim SASS 81783 said:
Unless all those fees are mandatory, I don’t have a problem with it. You can still see the critters, right? No different than $12 for a can of beer at a pro sports stadium. You don’t have to buy it.
Until your three small grandkids start wanting to scratch the warthog like the other kids and begin crying in the middle of what you thought would be a fun day. Good lesson maybe, but still not a very fun day.
I think that is the core strategy the zoos are using. Essentially, it's pay up or we'll ruin your kids' day.
Folks will respond by staying home or doing something else.
I guess I'm out of touch. I never would have guessed that taking three kids to the zoo for a day would top $300.
But I have a deal!
You can bring your kids to my place and they can feed, pet, and lead my llamas around all day for free. If you want to donate something toward the $22/bale hay, I'll accept it. THAT is MY idea of family focused entertainment.
Scratching a zoo warthog for 20 bucks almost seems like a form of prostitution or warthog trafficking.
My wife wanted to visit the Fresno Chaffe Zoo, having not been there for 10 years or more. During that time, a local bond issue passed, giving the zoo a $10 million taxpayer boost over ten years. So we went to have a look. And what a surprise!
Admission for non members was $16.50. Not too terrible, we thought. Then, for some additional sticker shock, you can do a variety of up-close encounters:
Feed a giraffe for 30 min. $90 per person
Feed a tortoise-30 min for $35 per person
Pet a seal for an hour for $90 per person.
Feed a kangaroo for 30 min. $50 per person
Pet a stingray for 15 mi - $90 per person
Scratch a warthog for 30 min $20 per person (No, I'm not kidding !)
Walk through the reptile house for an hour $90 per person.
Toss food to an elephant for an hour $115 per person.
I found those prices simply unbelievable!
(And I thought cowboy shooting was expensive.) This is beyond my wildest imagination. Lord, please help the poor guy who takes his 3 kids or grandkids to see the animals.
This was at the Chaffe Zoological Gardens in Fresno, Ca.. So are other zoos exploiting to this level?
All I can say is "WOW" !!!!
At first I thought it was a joke! But no joke.
I forgot to mention that children younger than 1 year get general admission free, but above 1 year is $9.50 up to 12, then the $16.50 adult price.
What's worrisome is figuring what these morons will come up with next to equalize wealth and penalize productivity. Will people above a prescribed income level have to pay an extra tax on whatever they buy? Will conservatives get taxed extra? Are sensibility limits now gone?
19 hours ago, Hardpan Curmudgeon SASS #8967 said:
Glad I ain't in the market for a new home!
My son is; he's worked long and hard to develop a good credit score, and scrimped and saved with the intent of making a 20% down payment on a home. And now this: (and the kid is PI$$ED!)
[Expletive Deleted] Raises Costs for Homebuyers With Good Credit to Help Risky Borrowers
Details are still hazy (murky might be a better descriptive), but the gist of the new rule is that if you have a credit score of 680 or higher and/or make a down payment of 15% - 20% you will be assessed an additional 1%; if you have a lower credit score and a down payment of less than 5%, you'll receive a 1.75% reduction.
In the past, a "good citizen" was a person who worked hard to earn and save money to pay his/her bills.
Now the opposite is rewarded by the new American Communists.
The solution here is to default in paying off bank notes to lower your score, and stop buying homes until the banks and housing industry both bleed out all over the Administration.
Note that this was an Administrative rule-making action by an agency -- a Regulation. It was not legislation by Congress.
Taxation without representation is ------------ well, you know!
You just can't make this stuff up!
On 4/21/2023 at 3:02 PM, Cheyenne Ranger, 48747L said:
Once a new shooter qualifies at our club they can shoot with us but they really don't know all the ins and outs of our game/hobby/obsession.
while we refer them to the SHB link, we are going to create a booklet or pamphlet that gives them a good overview.
Not wanting to reinvent the wheel we're wondering of any clubs already have such a document that we could use as a staring point.
From the drop down menu, go to About US and click the + button on the left,
then click "Getting Started".
Its not a SHB or pamphlet, but it's a start for you.
I hope the link works for you.
7 hours ago, Texas Maverick said:
I think someone needs to develop a target that registers a hit by turning on a light when it is hit. Would need multiple lights for those sweeps targeting the same target more than once. LOL
Already developed. We use them for long range.
Winchester 209 Primers set too deep in pocket on factory AA ammo
in SASS Wire
How can you set a flanged 209 primer too deeply?