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Juan Solo

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Everything posted by Juan Solo

  1. Surprised no one mentioned this, but with the pick-n-pluck foam (or any foam really) a popular durability upgrade is to use plasti-dip on the foam after you pluck it. Its very common in the 3-gun and PRS cases and it really does make it substantially more durable. You dont need to soak the foam, just give it like 2-3 light coats so that it doesnt collapse/seperate. Plus it helps keep the foam from absorbing oil and moisture.
  2. If this is for pistols just make one yourself out of a 357 case, just slightly expand the mouth to match the chamber, notch the back to fit a screw driver and stuff 'er in while turning.
  3. Probably more offers on snipers hide or arf. My 1873 isn't drilled for a scope base =)
  4. Did you try SASS I seem to remember it being all caps but I could be mistaken
  5. Whats wrong with the dark series? Its not intended for CAS but to folks who would rather have a lever gun over an AR or Mini 14 (or perhaps they live somewhere where an AR isnt allowed). Different strokes for different folks is all.
  6. I often do the same thing (also left eye -- rigght handed). Usually its a combination of feeling in the "zone" and shooting as fast as I can cock instead of as fast as I can point/aim, and the fact that as i get going on a string i tend to shoot a little higher each shot after recoving from recoil.
  7. If number 4 is still available after EOT let me know
  8. I'd be fine with that as it's in the right era
  9. By the time it came around the heyday was sunset. I think the current year cut off they have is just about perfect for what I think of as a "classic" cowboy
  10. I use media and a rotary separator, makes it painless and super quick. Even with that I like my loaded rounds to look like white gold shiny so I borrow a trick from the factories and actually toss the completed rounds in walnut impregnated with a healthy dose of turtle wax polishing compound for 20 minutes or so.
  11. 4.5 under a 250 should be fine. I shoot 4.6 under a 200gr and find it to be extremely accurate and very light recoil. I do use Magnum primers though for a complete burn. It is dirty though, no getting around that.
  12. Quite a few mechanical differences actually. The lever cams where the springs ride and the lever/lifter springs are very different. The carrier and the lever arm, the arm has a ball on the end and the channel it rides in is different as well as a slight change to the carrier to eject brass forward more. The firing pin extension has the drop safety in it. The main spring and the way it fits on the hammer is more like a SAA. The miroku seems more like a refinement of the 73 more than an attempt at a clone.
  13. Any chance you could lay them out so that both have the lever facing the same way and barrels parallel to get a better idea of how much shorter it is?
  14. Thats a pretty interesting comparison, and it actually kind of makes sense. Maybe thats why so many cowpokes wear black belts!
  15. Light touch no, but lighter touch yes. The difference in hardness between a CCI and a federal is pretty small though so I usually set up my guns to just pop CCIs and reload with federals so that I don't get light strikes ever.
  16. I'm not sure how to explain this in a way that you can understand, but the reality is you are taking for gospel something that is not meant to be. Reloading is a balancing act, and for low pressure shooting BHN is the LEAST important factor to consider for both accuracy and leading. In a cowboy load, leading will be caused mainly by poorly sized bullets being too small (gas escaping around the sides), and poor lube choice for the velocities we use. Leading can be more or less 100% eliminated purely by getting the right size bullet and the right lube (hi-tek works great) and even the article you linked says this. For accuracy at low pressure the factors in order of influence will be: 1) The Shooter 2) Mechanical (timing, rifling condition and quality etc) 3) Throat size being proper 4) Powder Charge Consistency 5) Bullet Size Consistency 6) Bullet Weight Consistency 7) Hardness The reason for that is, that hardness is a cover up for other fitment issues (shallow rifling, bad throat size, too small of a bullet). If the bullet is already big enough to fit the rifling, it doesnt need to expand further, it will be forced in to the rifling and make a good seal even if its a bit too hard. The reason BHN became such a big deal is that magnum loads were pushing soft bullets TOO fast and with too high of a pressure. So if you are shooting full bore magnums loads, or +P 38's then I'd say to be sure to worry about your BHN but not because of leading (use a hi-tek or good lube) but more so because you'll be ripping that bullet apart. P.S. I cant speak for the club you went to, but I dont actually know a single shooter that uses 158s in anything but knock downs and even then most people are using 125's for that. Perhaps you were talking to folks who double in IPSC or USPSA where the power factors are much higher and so a heavy bullet under a slow powder causes more of a "push" then a "pop" for recoil impulse, but for cowboy there is no real need as you can just load a light bullet to get the same "push" feeling.
  17. The Remington are also American made which is why I prefer them to the gi spec Springfield's.
  18. If you never plan on switching the sights, go Remington. If you want new sights and don't want a sight cut, go Springfield as the R1 uses a proprietary sight cut front and rear.
  19. Primers should be fine for sure. Powder is usually recommended to go back to it's container, especially it it's in a garage or some other location with out climate control.
  20. I'll take the shotgun belt as is if Irish Pat passes
  21. Leading is mostly caused by a bad fit of the bullet and pushing it too fast. The reality is for handguns that aren't shooting 50 yard bullseye, the right bhn to cup is such a minor component compared to getting a good fit. If the barrel is .452, and your cones are bigger than .452 you will get a good seal with a .452 bullet (as proofed by a Chrono and consistent fps) and will have minimal leading at low velocity. The formula is so not exact (I've also seen psi/1298 and a few other numbers) it's a very rough estimate of around where you want to be. To add more wrinkles, the pressure you are seeing is out of a test barrel so no cylinder gap meaning that in your barrel it's even lower.
  22. Go coated and don't worry about leading. Even shooting real powder puff 45s down in the 500 fps ranges no leading with the hi Tek.
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