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Lunger Dan

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Posts posted by Lunger Dan

  1. I to, use paper cartridges' so that there is no fumbling with measurements, etc under time pressure....unload, press new cartridges' in that are in a box near the unloading area, then straight to posse duties that no one wants to do. Cap at loading table...
    Takes me less than 1 shooter to move on after reloading. Cap and ball is no excuse to sit and wipe on guns til its your turn to shoot next.

     

  2. I had one in .45....area around firing pin hole cratered so bad after less than  1,000 rounds it would lock up after each shot-sold it as fast as I could at a gun show.....

    Hadnt had that problem with any other Ubertis , except the one put out by Stoeger....metal is so soft on face there its not funny-would have cost more to "fix" than worth. 
    Posted about it with pics somewhere on the wire in the last 2 years or so

     

    IMG_4523.JPG

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  3. Every single one I bought at Roses or Kmart or at a flea market for $50-75, cleaned up and had fun with, then sold;that are now worth $500+
    Mosin Nagants for $500...SKSs for 6, Enfields for 6+.....
    In fact, every one I ever had....
    Worst though...the Belgian Fn FAL I had bought before my divorce that was a full auto deactivated for civilian use...all matching, beautiful wood, the whole shebang...I think it was 2 years later the value on that thing went from 1 k to about 5 k-and I sold it for the 700 I bought it for.

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  4. The plastic collet/ring which is turned to adjust trim length is very easily broken-I broke mine the first day. Lee will send a new one. 
    Ive used them for 303, 7.5x55 30 carbine and 8mm...there is a big learning curve.   setting the collet length right(very little adjustment)pressure and timing.  I just let the weight of the drill do the pushing and a count of Mississippi's to get there...Its not as precise a tool as some of the other trim tools which take twice as long or more for each brass.
    Dont push down..after awhile you'll be able to hear and feel when its done cutting.
    "The trimmer comes to a rest on the die shoulders when done cutting. "  Negative..it comes to a rest on the spring action under the cutting blade which rests on the mouth of the case. Thats why continued pushing will go past the spring action and cut too much.

     

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  5. There are people and storefronts, gun show vendors  and dealers I will remember after this "crises" (if there ever is an end)
    Some, due to their attitudes and practices in these dark days, will never get my business in either good or bad days again.
    You have the right to run your business as you see fit..I have the right to not use it and let others know .

  6. There is a flat on the bottom pin that the set screw rides, this keeps it aligned...Ive never had a problem with it
    P.S.: I did mine not because it was broken, but I wanted rid of the hourglass and in searching Baikal stuff...I found another Cowboy who had done this mod....it was on some extensive write up online about someone slicking a baikal

     

  7. The "replies" and comments are already filled with ignorant comments by anti gun advocates...."Twitter" and "tweeting" are not bastions of Second Amendment Advocacy. 
    Right now, money is the main roadblock to people I talk to about SASS. No fault of SASS...just is what it is...

     

  8. I also use it for shotgun.
    As an experiment, I sifted a pound of Swiss reenactor using the correct aprx sized screening(cant remember mesh sizes off top of my head-it was a couple years ago), with the sifting including some pressure to kind of "korn" the larger pieces through the mesh....I ended up with about 3/4 bottle of 2-3F which I used in my cap and ball pietta with just fine results for cowboy shooting . (dont know if Id use it for long range target shooting -but Ive never done anything but cowboy shoot with BP anyway)
    I will admit, it was a dirty process to screen and squeeze .
    Id do it again if need be...but it was a good experiment.
    As far as those other parts of the question...black is black...its kind of like asking what is the difference between pouring 10w30 or straight 30 over your gun....same result. 
    I dont use any automatic powder measures in my reloading stages, but I do load it through my Lee load all for shotgun shells.
    How bad do you want some black powder to use?
    I did this experiment back in the good times, BB (before biden) as a curiosity and having read about it online somewhere to save a couple bucks.  I'll always use it for shotgun since then.

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  9. While I appreciate the work this gentleman did, I'm going to stick with cleaning with Hoppes #9 , kroil and Ballistol; and Ballistol as a protectant/lube (sometimes white lithium grease for my Swiss and AK actions)   Mostly because (except for AK) I still believe in Ballistol for my wood and leather and the ability to mix it with water and use it as a flush directly after shooting corrosive ammo.
    Secondly, price....I can buy a heck of alot of Hoppes and Ballistol , for what they want for 4oz of frog lube.
    If I go out in harsh environment with my guns, I clean immediately..in fact, I clean after each range time (except for AK)...I clean/give a wipe down each month if not used also....and I don't worry about about Ballistol doing harm to my almost 100 year old wood (which was probably cleaned with Ballistol since WW1 or 2)
    I'm not a Navy Seal emerging from the shore break storming a sandy beach, hiding up to my eyes in a mangrove swamp or doing a HALO into enemy territory

     

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