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Tulrosa Mike

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  • SASS Number or "Guest"
    12314
  • SASS Affiliated Club
    Texas Historical Shootist Society

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Texas

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  1. The only time that I have had trouble getting a good crimp with my Redding dies was if the case was trimmed too short.
  2. I have loaded 32/20, 38/40 & 44/40 over the years. I no longer have a 44/40 but in the 38/40 & 44/40 I have always used Redding dies with good luck. I am not sure if they are “profile” or not but the ones I got 22 years ago I got on the advice of a local professional manufacturer who was a member of my club. He said that they did not push the shoulder back like some other dies. I have been loading the 38/40 for my rifle for 22 years and I sill have some of my original brass. The cases have not split but the length of the insertion and crimping of the bullet is important or the neck may crumple. If the neck is dinged or flattened some from some one stepping on it I get the largest drill bit that will fit into it and bend it back into shape and or gently tap on it with a nylon hammer with the bit in it to reform.
  3. Thanks for all of the replies and suggestions. At first I was going to relieve the place where the two (toggle and carrier arm) parts were coming into contact but I was curious if anyone else had experienced the same kind of thing. When I first got the rifle I smoothed out some by comparing it to the original 73 where it was not functioning well. I must have missed the link issue. I did address the issue like the rim of the last round loaded hitting the mortise when being elevated and at that time I filed the mortise to form a bevel like the other rifle and did not have that problem any more until last week so I will have to go back and take a look at that again. It is frustrating that these clones have to have so much work done them given the amount that they cost nowadays. I spent twice as much for the Uberti as I did for the Winchester 22 years ago. Thanks, Mike
  4. Last weekend I was shooting at Trailhead and was having trouble with the last cartridge getting stuck on the rim when trying to raise the carrier because the last cartridge is angled instead of straight. When I was checking for the cause of this I also noticed another issue which appears to be unrelated. That is that on every stroke (even when unloaded) when the bolt was moving forward there was a spot where the movement forward took more effort on the lever than I thought there should be. I took the side cover off of the side opposite the loading gate and found that the underside of the toggle length on that side was grazing the carrier lever as the link stretched foreword. This was where the friction was coming from. I took everything apart and examined all parts of the action and nothing seems to be worn or broken. I got the gun about 2 yrs ago to retire my original 73 (made in 1886) that I had been shooting for 20 yrs. The newer rifle is from Taylors and all parts are factory except for the extractor which I replaced. It is a 38/40 like my original except it has a 20” barrel instead of a 24” one. I looked in the action of the old rifle and the link clears the carrier lever by about 1mm and does not want to hang up like the Uberti. This may have been happening all along but I am wondering if they are all made like this? I am attaching pictures of both rifle actions and you can see the difference thanks, Mike
  5. SASS ALIAS: Tularosa Mike SASS#: 12314 WHERE I’M FROM: Texas HOW LONG HAVE I BEEN COWBOY ACTION SHOOTING: 23 years
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