Fireball #7709 Life
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Posts posted by Fireball #7709 Life
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20 hours ago, Sedalia Dave said:
PM sent.
19 hours ago, Cassalong Hopidy said:Fireball. I think I have every .257 Weatherby die and accessory made but have given my 4 rifles in that caliber to sons. Want me to bring them to RHR shoot? BTW, great caliber if you haven’t shot it before. I have used it on many whitetails, mule deer and antelope.
Cass
Thanks Cass, I'll catch up with you at RHR.
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Still looking!
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I haven't received a reply from my PM, my email is fireball7709atlive.com(replace the at with @). Thanks.
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I'll take 'em. Sending PM.
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PM sent on Olights
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22 long rifle or 22 mag?
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17 hours ago, Wooden Nickel said:
Pm sent but could not get photos in PM
Sent an email to the address you provided, did you get it?
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That says it all. If you have one and don't need it any longer, PM me a price. Thanks!
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16 hours ago, Deuce Stevens SASS#55996 said:
I really wish these were 7.5” in 38-40 with German silver gripframes, I’d be all over them then.
I'm still laughing!
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2 hours ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:
Have never seen the top screw in the bolt version.
What was it's purpose?
There are at least three types of firing pins. The very early(a couple thousand) guns used a different firing pin than the majority. That screw retains it. There is no cross pin like later guns/ repro's. 1901's used a firing pin retraction lever, so those firing pins are different. That is also a feature that didn't make it into any repro's.
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This illustrates the difference in magazine mounting and 1 screw versus 2 forends. Also the 4th carrier sized screw on the left of some originals. Right, in use main match, 4 digit early gun. Left, Lassiter modified, IAC setup as a match gun. I still use my originals as the wood is less blocky, the butt stock has a better rise for the high receiver on all of them and I think the action "feel" is better.
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The 10 gauge guns, both original 1887 and all 1901s were 1/4" longer. The Chiappa is based on the 10 gauge 1901. All Chinese guns and the original 12 gauge guns were 1/4" shorter. In the pics, top, original 1901 10 gauge, 2nd from top, one of my match guns, a very early, original 12 gauge(with early style firing pin), 3rd from top, IAC Chinese 12 gauge, bottom, original 10 gauge 1887 10 gauge(converted to 12).
Dual extractors were introduced to deal with paper shells swelling. All reproductions have dual extractors(not an advantage for how we use the guns).
Dual forend screws came about with the "2nd gen" originals and the change in magazine mounting.
There are at least, 4 different hammers and 5 different triggers in the originals.
There are other trivial differences. Number of carrier screws, additional screws for extractor function. IAC's have a combination of metric and SAE screw threads(probably based on a repaired original they copied). The list goes on.
A properly functioning original, that has had the chambered lengthened, will function modern plastic 2 3/4" shells fine. The longer ones may barely rub on the way out, but it is not a problem.
The amount of incorrect information quoted on the internet can be dizzying. I've lived with, worked on and competed with these guns since the early 90's. It's a passion.
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7 hours ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:
All the China made ones are copies of the 1901 version.
Coyote Cap worked his tail off to bring the '87 and '97 to us cowboy shooters.
Only a copy of the 1901 in regards to the 3rd locking point(hinged lever), all the "china ones" are based on the 12 gauge frame of the 1887, whereas the original 1901 was ONLY ever available in 10 gauge. The Chiappa is a copy of the original 1901 in size(1/4" difference in receiver and bolt length vs. the 1887), but is chambered in 12 gauge and has the hinged lever locking point.
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No mention by the OP what 87 he's starting with. I don't recommend Chiappa's, they're built on the 10 gauge frame and are very bulky and heavy compared to an IAC or original. IAC's are the best bet for a gun that will should need minimal to no repairs, originals will need the chambers lengthened and have a host of other relatively common, but fixable, things that might be wrong. I'll mention the PW87 long enough to say, don't bother, they were the IAC rejects that someone decided to "repair" and sell, they reflect the less than $300 price tag for which they sold at the time. The Mod's. The Drop 2 was engineered by myself and Texas John Critter back in the 90's. It requires specific ammunition no longer commonly available and such, no one is doing it. Coyote Cap pioneered the Load 2 about the same time and Lassiters version (2 Shot maybe? The names only matter when talking about this stuff) I'm unsure of when it came about, but I believe he was messing with them around the same time, possibly a little later. I mention all this, because it matters. They all achieve a similar result, but in vastly different ways. The vast majority of IAC's with the what folks refer to as "coyote caps", are basically a little touchy for consistent, hard work, it WILL allow you to also load and use the mag tube, the same as the Drop 2 did. The "CAP special's"(carrier pictured above) had a different system and did not allow the use of the mag tube(or at least all I've handled wouldn't). Not a big deal for how we use them, but details matter. Lassiters version uses a different system, that also doesn't allow use of the mag tube, but is a much more consistent mod(of those still available) for the way we use the guns. For what he charges, I don't see it making sense to try it yourself and possibly muck up parts that are unavailable easily. There's welding and milling involved, on more than the carrier, he does work to the bolt and the chamber mouth that I know of. The IAC's can need other little things to run right and he may do some or all of those things as well. I suggest you talk to him. As I am no expert on his mod, still running my original version, I don't feel qualified to try to explain all he does.
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1 hour ago, Matthew Duncan said:
But how does the Money Sender know he can trust the Seller?
As mentioned in the above posts. You have to do some due diligence.
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34 minutes ago, Slick McClade said:
Seems like the wire administrative service could take away the “guest” option. Also have it were ONLY a paying member in good standing that has a club affiliation listed can post or even access the wire. Just a humble thought.
Be careful guys …. It’s a cold, dark & cruel world out there.
Slick
That's probably an administrative cost SASS HQ doesn't want to absorb, for something that doesn't bring them any profit.(I wouldn't) They'd have to pay someone to either setup additional electronic means for some current membership database to do it automatically, or one of the girls in the office is doing more clerical inputs manually forever. Either way, cost with no return.
Additionally, and more importantly, just being a SASS member in good standing with the founding organization is no guarantee they're good to do business with. Most are, but just because you paid dues to an organizing body doesn't make you anything other than a customer/member. If you were honest before, you still are, if you weren't, paying $35(or whatever it is) didn't magically buy you a dose of integrity.
Further, some guests are genuine folks looking to get into the sport. We're almost constantly working with new shooters in this area. I send all of them to the Wire at some point. Limiting the availability to trade with like minded fellows in the same sport is key to the continued health of the game. The struggle to get new shooters outfitted is real and when there are folks hanging up their spurs, it's an opportunity for their legacy to continue on, while helping someone else.
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Buyers and sellers have their minimum threshold for a deal. I've had some deals that went on for weeks, phone calls, emails, more pics, silence, more emails and then we consummated it and everyone was happy. I just did one with another long time member here this week: 2 pics and we're both shipping money and merchandise same day. Only you can decide your comfort level with a deal. IT COSTS NOTHING TO WALK AWAY.
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3 minutes ago, CarbineCasey #4469 said:
I haven’t seen any post but he sent me several messages wanting to buy my brass when I checked his profile it says guest.
So, when the money shows up, send him the brass. Selling is a lot safer(you hold the item until you have the money).
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The larger portion of scam beginnings(or attempts) come from WTB posts. I'm always looking for something it seems. The "my friend has just what you're looking for" is a bright red flag, 99.9% of those will NOT be legit. As is most anything that seems to good to be true, that new vaquero for $500, just go ahead forget it. Check the sellers profile for some longevity here, profile created today? Yesterday? MAYBE last week? only posts are in response to WTB? Walk away. Get a pic with todays date or your name hand written on a piece of paper with the item. If the seller is genuine, they'll understand in this day and age. Don't buy the "I'm lucky to be able to PM" For buyer and seller, is it a pain to do some of this? Yup. Tracking down a scammer and getting your money back is a bigger pain. Trust me, I've done it.(and was lucky) If all that passes muster and the hair on yer neck still ain't happy, speak to the seller on the phone. Most of us aren't big on that these days, but you can tell a lot from the tone of a conversation. If any or all of that isn't according to Hoyle, walk away. There isn't a thing you're gonna buy or sell here that won't or can't be found somewhere else...eventually.LOL
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My main match shotgun for the last 25+ years!
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Just now, Boonie Young said:
Also, all the Winchester Takedowns that I have seen have the threads milled flat on 2 sides to slide into the receiver and then twist the barrel to lock.
That feature is part of the barrel "takedown extension" that this barrel threads into...
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More gear at Ides of March
in SASS Wire Classifieds
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If this is the hard case version, I'll take it. Let me know?