[mailing a handgun - need help]

Thanks for the timely replies!

[mailing a handgun - need help]

I, an individual not an FFL, need to ship two single action revolvers (Ruger Vaqueros) from Arizona to an FFL address in Texas with a copy of the FFL license inside the box.

 

It appears that it is not legal to do this using the United States Postal Service so it appears that my only two choices are 1. find a local FFL dealer to mail it for me or 2. Use UPS and pay the overnight express fee.

 

Would this be a correct assumption or have I missed some new law allowing single action revolvers to be mailed via USPS Priority mail?

 

If you can help with the answer I would appreciate it but PLEASE......answers like "I do it all the time, just mail it" without evidence of legality won't help me and I'm not interested in shipping to Canada or California or shipping machine guns or bazookas or ammunition, just two unloaded revolvers from Arizona to Texas.

[Sold - Pair of 357 Ruger Original Vaquero's]

Guns are sold

[How can I tell a new from old Vaquero?]

Just wanna know........ I've always heard the wear ring around the cylinder referred to as the "Ruger ring" but the photo above shows a Colt with the same ring and they've been around a lot longer than Rugers so shouldn't they too share in the honor of having the ring name after them?

[How can I tell a new from old Vaquero?]

I find it humorous how folks get their undies in a knot when folks talk about old model Vaqueros, new model Vaqueros, Flat Tops, 3 screws, and new model Blackhawks. Who gives a rats butt if there are common understood names given to things. Most everyone knows what Featherlites are but Winchester never called them that, at least that I recall.

 

Blame it on the third grade! It all started when teachers pasted those little gold stars next to your name on a wall chart for certain accomplishments. The more gold stars one had showed that they were smarter, brighter than the rest of the class and those little stars gave one a sense of accomplishment and superiority. Some have strived for that feeling their whole lives, and simple things like correcting others gives them that feeling, others could care less.

 

Can you just imagine the conversation among car guys when talking about their favorite cars and the talk shifted to the '57 Chevy only to have someone correct the others by saying that technically they were Chevrolet's and there was no such thing as a Chevy! There would be tar and feathers made ready Personally, in my hot rod days I had an Olds 442 (very similar to the Oldsmobile 442 but I never had to explain that since everyone knew)

 

Regardless of what we call these guns (Oops, I mean handguns or revolvers or single action revolvers) at least we know what kind of bullets we load in them (Oops, I mean cartridges or rounds or ammunition (is ammo still acceptable?)) Ya gotta love it!

[Chronicle]

My February issue which arrived this morning shows two pretty ladies on the cover while the January issue also showed a pretty young lady along with Missouri Lefty, both EOT Champions.

 

What are you seeing?

[How can I tell a new from old Vaquero?]

They are either the original Ruger Vaquero or the Ruger New Vaquero. All of them are New Model Vaqueros. None of them are Old Model Vaqueros. No such thing.

 

You posted this just to argue the difference between the words original and old, give me a break! One model was made years ago and is no longer in production, another model, the NEW model is in production so what does that make the original model......... it's the old model!

 

If someone posts.... "I've got a Ruger Vaquero for sale" and one of the first questions asked is..."Is it the NEW Vaquero or the older Vaquero?" THAT would be a valid question, a question that everyone would understand but if they didn't understand the meaning of the question, calling it the original wouldn't make it any clearer to them!

 

If it makes you feel better calling it the original then by all means carry on but I don't see the sense or the necessity since everyone in the first 29 posts knew what we are talking about.

 

Thanks to everyone for chiming in with different ways one can tell the difference between the two models

[How can I tell a new from old Vaquero?]

It took 2 trips back to ruger to finally get one of my NMV fixed properly. New cylinder had to be made and fitted to pistol.

 

JK

 

Miss-fitting cylinders and poor customer service. So this is yet another way to tell the difference between the original and new Vaqueros

 

Good to know!

[How can I tell a new from old Vaquero?]

Duplicate topics merged.

 

Sorry 'bout that, I saw both threads but for the life of me I don't know how I started the second thread.

[Sold - Pair of 357 Ruger Original Vaquero's]

I'll take them

 

OK, I'll mark this thread sold pending funds and I just sent you a PM

 

Thanks

[Sold - Pair of 357 Ruger Original Vaquero's]

I am selling my pair of Ruger Original Vaquero revolvers chambered in .357. I bought these guns from a fellow SASS member in Apr 2015. One gun was very lightly used (he said less than a box of cartridges trying to get his wife interested in shooting) and the other was never fired having lived it's life in his safe. So while I'm the second owner, I'm basically the only owner to actually use them. I used them in 5 or 6 monthly matches and several practice sessions before getting hooked on black powder and moving to larger caliber revolvers so they have sat in my safe unused since around Sept 2015.

 

They are blued and case hardened, have 5 1'2" barrels and are in excellent condition with only very slight rings on the cylinders. No scratches or blemishes on the nice wood grips, no holster wear that I can see, no scratches and are 100% stock. They have never fired anything but cowboy loads in .357 cases, no 38 loads.

 

I am asking $1050 for the pair plus whatever shipping charges will be if you don't want to drive to Show Low, Arizona and pick them up.

 

Below is a photo of them. I have five more photos of them showing more details but they are too large to put in this post so the links to them are provided below.

 

 

Left sides view.... http://www.arizonapenco.com/images/rugers-lh.jpg

Right sides view... http://www.arizonapenco.com/images/rugers-rh.jpg

Close up showing case hardening lh side... http://www.arizonapenco.com/images/rugers-detail-lh.jpg

Close up showing case hardening rh side... http://www.arizonapenco.com/images/rugers-detail-rh.jpg

Top view... http://www.arizonapenco.com/images/rugers-top.jpg

[Resizing case lube]

If you spray a bunch of brass but let it set for a few days, what is the impact?

 

I would say nothing, other than the alcohol is good and evaporated out and here is why I think that............

 

Lately when I reload my 44-40 brass, I'll do it in batches of 400 to 500 cases. Before starting I'll lay out a folded bath towel and spread the brass out then spritz it with the lube than roll it all around with my bare hands to insure good coverage.

 

I'll let it all sit for five minutes or so then start running them through my press. Usually I will do the loading in one sitting but now and then something will pop up preventing me to finish in which case the lubed brass will sit as is with a towel tossed over them to keep dust off (my reloading room is next door to my wood shop). When I come back in a few days or week, the brass is just how I left it, nice and lubed ready to load.

[How can I tell a new from old Vaquero?]

Well that certainly makes it easy..........Thanks Gents!

[How can I tell a new from old Vaquero?]

In 2015 I bought a pair of Ruger Vaqueros from a member here who was getting out of CAS and I was told they were old model Vaqueros. I'm going to run an ad in the classifieds so I looked at the plastic cases they came in to get the exact model numbers but nothing says anything about new or old and I want to make sure I represent them properly. Serial numbers on the plastic case labels match serial numbers on the revolvers. One case says model 00582 and the other case says model 00578 although they appear identical in every detail I can see. One box says catalog BNV-35 while the other box says catalog BNV-35i.

 

Can one tell old model from new model by the serial numbers? Both serial numbers start with 058-, one being 058-247** and the other 58-924** Both are case hardened if that matters.

 

Any help would be appreciated.

[I found a new issue with powder coated bullets]

:FlagAm:

 

 

Howdy, Pards!

 

Please quit sending me PM's telling me to post the name of the outfit who is making the badly cast bullets.

I will not post their name unless they won't replace the bad bullets.

 

And regardless of what my thread title says, I do realize the issue is the bullet, and not the coating.

 

Respectfully,

Mustang

 

I guess that's one way of looking at it BUT....... If I were shopping around for some bullets (coated or not) I would like to know if one of the contenders for my business was selling shoddy work!

[Resizing case lube]

Wow............

 

alcohol & liquid lanolin

HEET and liquid lanolin

Dillon case lube

Ballistol

Bag Balm

Crisco

One-Shot

Imperial Sizing Wax

Lee case Lube

Lemon Pledge

 

I wonder what you would get if you mixed them all together?

[Resizing case lube]

Been reloading for way longer than I care to remember, never had a stuck case until today. I've been using Hornady One Shot with good results. My can was almost empty but I gave it a good long shakin' and sprayed a tray full off .223 Wolf Gold cases. These cases have a crimped primer, so I had already decapped them in a separate decapping die so I could ream the pockets.

 

Ran about 10 or so cases and thought they were resizing kinda hard. Next case and poof, stuck in the die. Now maybe since the One Shot can was almost empty it was mostly carrier and little of the slick stuff, don't know. Anyway I went on You tube and looked up case lubes. Seems a lot of people make their own out of liquid lanolin and isopropyl alcohol, which they say is the exact stuff Dillon sells at 10 dollars per bottle. Think I'm gonna give this a try.

 

So what are you guys and gals using?

 

ETA: my bad on the Dillon lube price, should be $10 not $18

 

I am one of those who make my own lube and have been for many years now with nary a regret as it works fantastic. I mainly use it for my 223 brass and have loaded thousands of cases using the lube with never a hint of a stuck case. I recently started using it on my 44-40 cases, while not required, the cases are a little thin and the lube allows for very smooth resizing. If you choose to try it, there are a few important things to remember:

 

1. Use 99% Isopropyl alcohol, the lesser strengths will not dissolve and blend with the liquid lanolin as well.

2. Use the liquid 100% lanolin NOT the cream or suave variations as they are not pure lanolin and take FOREVER to blend with the alcohol and are worthless for this use. I found my liquid lanolin at a local health food store

3. I found that an 8-1 ratio of alcohol to lanolin works best for me and many friends who use it. Just pour the alcohol in a spray bottle first, add the lanolin and shake well. Before each use a quick shake will make sure it is still mixed.

 

I lay out several dozen cases on a towel, lightly spritz, rolling the cases back and forth with my bare hands to insure good coverage then allow a few minutes for the alcohol to evaporate and I'm good to go! A side benefit is that the lanolin residue left on your hands does away with dry skin in short order! After loading the rounds, what little lanolin residue remains can easily be wiped away just like any other case lube.

 

Cost - Well the bottle of alcohol is under $1, the 4oz bottle of lanolin was approx $6 and has lasted me for approximately 5 years and there is still 1/4 bottle left.

 

Here is what I use............

 

[Classified, Your experience.]

Well, I've bought about a dozen items and all but one went smooth and the folks were honest about what they were selling, one even refused payment until I received the items and was satisfied, but there always has to be one!

 

I posted that I was looking for a good timer and a member replied saying that he had two, one of which was his backup timer and it had just been used a couple times inside his house so I bought it. The first impression upon opening the package was that it was NOT just used a couple times in the house, it looked to be rode hard and put up wet!

 

I pm'd the seller asking to return it since not only was it heavily used and scuffed up, it didn't even work! He replied that I was mistaken and he didn't offer refunds and the rest of my pm's went unanswered so I just chocked up the $75 and got a lesson about how some interpret the "cowboy way".

[Invisible "members"?]

Howdy,

 

When first joining SASS the individual membership cost is $75 and then the yearly renewal is $65. Spouse is $60 with a renewal of $55 and Junior (18 & under) $25 with renewal of $5. This info may be found on the SASS Homepage under Membership.

 

Hasta Luego, Keystone

 

PS No offense, but I think posting on the Forum should be a privilege of membership, viewing of course would free.

I think this would be a good idea but needs to be taken one step further to require Current membership but am guessing it would be a costly and cumbersome task for the SASS office to monitor! As far as the cost, It would be no different than many other forums who require yearly dues JUST to be able to post on their forum!

 

I wonder how many current posters joined SASS, got their badge number then just let their annual membership lapse for one reason or another? Ever notice how you always see the same folks lining up posting negative thoughts against SASS when a thread is started about dues or the SASS office personnel or anything involving costs of being a member? I'll wager that those threads would disappear if current membership was required.

[INVISIBLE CLUBS]

Or who are even SASS Members in good standing!

Roland, your post got me to thinking........... Is there a way to see a list of current SASS "paid up" members?

I'm wondering how many are posting on the forum who joined, got their alias and badge then stopped paying dues? I shoot with a couple of folks I know of that stopped paying dues but still shoot with us

[Flying to shoots with firearms]

Where was the ammo if he just got off the plane? The news reports are awful!! First we hear 100 rounds now it's 30!!!!

 

It was in his CHECKED baggage along with his gun which he had just retrieved from the baggage carousel.

[Flying to shoots with firearms]

I fly several times a year and at every airport I fly into and depart from, the baggage claim areas are outside the "secured" areas. Here at Phoenix Sky Harbor ANYONE can walk in off the street directly into the area where the baggage carousels are so there is little to nothing the TSA or local police armed to the teeth totally surrounding the carousels could have done to prevent this character from getting off the airplane, walking down to the baggage claim area, grab is bags and head for the bathroom for a quick pit stop before going outside to catch a ride. But instead of making a pit stop he could have easily opened a bathroom stall, opened a bag, grabbed his pistol and loaded it with the ammo which could have been spread out among all of his checked bags.

 

Sadly, crazy people will always be one step ahead of bureaucratic law enforcement.

[Really ticked off]

Cabela's gets none of my gun related business. Their loss. They may know clothing, but they don't know stocking and supplying components.

 

Good luck, GJ

I'm in the same camp as Joe, I don't give ANY of my business to companies, either online or brick and mortar, that pull shenanigans like this, there far too many sources who are good to do business with. I'm not a large volume shooter, only going through 500 - 1,000 large pistol primers per month but always order in quantity to make sure I have plenty on hand. My last order was for 20,000 Federal primers back in the fall of 2016 (when most said they were impossible to find) will keep me supplied for well over another year.

 

I always order from www.powdervalleyinc.com because they have the best prices I can find and spreading the hazmat and shipping costs over large quantities of primers brings the "per box" price down to under anything I can find locally.

 

The trick to shopping them is to check back frequently (not just every few weeks) because they will show them in stock one day and sell out the same day.

[Where Have all the Cross-Draws Gone]

When I started back in '03 lots of folks wore 'em.

Don't see 'em much at all any more....

Could be that many shooters are aging AND gaining a few pounds!

 

I've seen so many shooters having so much trouble reaching down over their gut just to buckle their belt, GOD help 'em if they had to reach any farther over and draw a pistol.

[Multi-day Shoots in AZ before Winter Range]

Couldn't ya'll have built the Phoenix area just a little closer to Show Low?

 

Actually I drive the 110 miles to Payson to shoot with those good folks each month and I keep telling myself, "it's just another 60 to 80 miles further to shoot in the valley"!

 

Thanks for the heads up, don't be surprised if you see another new face to some of your matches this winter!