Clyde Henry 7046
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Posts posted by Clyde Henry 7046
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I think the tang length on your rifle should be considered as the short type. Long tang rifles changed over to short tang rifle in mid-year of 1939, with the serial number range of 16646 to 16790.
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This is just a test and only a test. Had this been a real - - - - - - - -
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Howdy all
Looking for wisdom from the wire. I am setting up a rifle for cowboy long range side matches in pistol caliber (I already have one for rifle caliber). I have two rifles available which to use. They are both Marlin 1894cb limited with 24 inch barrels. One is in 45LC and the other is 357 mag. Which caliber is better for long range? Also which size bullets do you use for the caliber you suggest? Thanks ahead for the info.
WT
If your setting up a rifle for long range, then set it up with target sights. I use the Soule sight from my other long range rifles. I bought another base and mounted on my rifle. I record my sight setting for each range I shoot at. While both calibers will work, my preference would be the 357 with heavy bullets (180 to 200 grains). What ever you do, be sure the rifling twist will support the weight of bullet you shoot. All of my long range rifles tend to work better (ie hit the target more times) when I shoot heavy bullets at moderate speeds.
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I have the MVA Soule long range site. It's their tallest. I then purchased bases for each rifle I would use the site on.
I have the hooded front site with a spirit level and the inserts can be changed out to whatever type you want. Post aperature etc..
They make top quality sites. Get a soule, the windage readings are much better and easier to see.
Ike
+4 MVA Soule sites.
Most of the sights came with the rifles I have bought along the way. I also started out with MVA's tallest, and the one the has the most windage (real handy when shooting 1000 yards). All my rifles wear the MVA sight bases except one. Its a Baldwin, its a really nice sight. But the Baldwin screws turn opposite direction than the MVA. Nothing wrong with that, except but my habit is to think its an MVA and that can be confusing at times. As for front sights, all my rifles have globes with the inserts and bubble level. The level comes into play at the longer ranges. It keeps canting errors to a minimum.
While I started out with an MVA front sight, it didn't take long to figure out that was a mistake. That little tab on top of the sight that holds the inserts in the sight snags on everything and it isn't long before it breaks off and you lose the insert. You have to send the sight back to MVA for repair. I now use globe sites have screw in caps to keep the insert in place, much better. I install mine so the screw cap faces the muzzle. A lot easier to use that way, just stand the rifle up on it's butt and work the screw. I have used Baldwin front sights for years now, and have found had no reason to change.
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If you’re only going to buy one rifle, the best is the 45-70, brass and bullet are easily to come by. I have several calibers which include the 38-55, 40-50 SBN, 40-60, 40-65, 40-80, 45-70 and the 45-90). I have shot 50 yards to 1200 yards matches. The most versatile is the 45-70. I only shoot Swiss BP in mine. I have found that with the right BP loads, I can hit the target more times than using smokeless.
When you go looking for the rifle, buy a target rifle with a heavy weight barrel. Hunting weight rifles make for poor performing target rifles. Get a rifle with a pistol grip and one with shotgun type butt.
Get a high quality Soule type rear sight (the ones with windage adjustments). Forget about the Lyman and Marble tang sights. Get a globe front sight with the bubble level.
There are lots of high wall rifles on the market, but the one where you get the most bang for your buck, is the Browning BPCR, which comes from the factory with a Badger Barrel (sort of the gold standard for single shot rifles) and the correct target type sights. If you go looking for a Browning BPCR, don’t buy any other Browning 1885 single shot, they are not the same as the BPCR.
One other thing, when I first started out, I bought a military rolling block action thinking I could save a few bucks by assembling it myself with barrel, socks, etc . Wrong!!! By the time I bought everything and then paid the gunsmith to put it together, I spent more money (and more than a year waiting) than if I had just went out and bought a nice new long range rifle.
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I've been shooting my Gibbs with a chase patch recently, and having a blast. Bought a 45 cal inline muzzleloader the other day so I'll be paperpatching it tomorrow! Anyway, I got to thinking bout my 3855, and wondering why a guy couldn't breech seat a paperpatch bullet, and shoot black out of it? I'd droptube it nearly full of swiss, then place a 60 thou card wad on it to make it about flush......but then thought what would happen when that wad slams into the base of that bullet? What about the airgap? Yes, my gunsmith opened my chamber up to the correct dimensions for .380 bullets, and yes it shoots well. Anyway, I better have some help with the breech seating idea before I learn an expensive lesson on my own. Thanks, Lunger
The shooters over at the American Single Shot Rifle Assoc. Forum talk about breech seating bullets a lot. ( http://www.assra.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=reload) You might ask them.
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There are several makes tang mounted sites that work well. If long range means several hundred yards, rather than all the way back to end of the pistol pits, then you need a high quality soule type sight, like an MVA, or Baldwin, or Shaver. Don't go cheap on a sight, especially if you want to walk up front and claim 1st place. Once you learn how to use them, high quality soule sights a fast to set up and quick to change setting for different yardages. They flat out work every-time. I have use mine for 20 years and no problems.
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There's got to be a hundred ways to fix this. For example, the bay that lends itself to 300 yard shooting, a guy could place 10 evenly spaced 18 inch steel targets for unlimited sighters. Next to each steel target, a paper target the same size for record with shooters name on it. Up to 10 people are banging away at the steel at a time with their spotter of choice. When the shooter says he'll shoot 5, or 10 for record, the spotter steps away, and the shooter fires his record shots. Every half hr call ceasefire, and a couple kids with four wheelers run down and paint steel and swap out paper targets as they are completed. 2 or 3 guys hit all their shots, no problem. Measure the group size to break ties. It's easy, fast, and fair. The 500 meter buffalo. .....several 2×2 foot steel targets the same distance by the buff. Several folks banging sighters. When shooters ready for record, tell the management. If several ready at once, have em line up and take turns for record. Every half hr a couple kids on 4 wheelers zoom down and paint up. A smaller piece of steel at same distance for shootoff. Or one round for center at same distance. Lots of folks could b ran through quickly, and it'd be a level playing field for all. I'd start hauling my guns the 1200 miles again if things were more like that. That's only a couple examples, there's got to be plenty more ideas out there that would work great too.
Well said!! Only one trouble with your suggestion, it would'n favor the local shooters.
SOLD Winchester 71 .348 Win w/factory ammo
in SASS Wire Classifieds
Posted
You are welcome, and congratulations on the sale of a nice-looking rifle!