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Clyde Henry 7046

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About Clyde Henry 7046

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  • SASS #
    7046
  • SASS Affiliated Club
    Rattlesnake Gulch Rangers

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    Male
  • Location
    Eastern Washington State

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  1. Dusty:. The shooter goes immediately to the tie breaker target. The goal here to not have to call shooters back to the long range for shoot offs and not use time. Tie breaker shots\hits are only counted to break ties. The are not counted on the main course of fire. The small targets reinforce the emphasis on precision.
  2. I don't like to use time to break ties. Using times just makes the match into a speed match. SSAS long range rules state that the emphasis is on precision. Speed and precision have very little to do with each other. As for breaking ties, I set out very small tie breaker targets that are shot after the main course of fire is shot. A shooter keeps shooting at the tie breaker target until a miss is recorded.
  3. How far is long range for you?
  4. Ya, I have the same problem with the Remington # 10s in TC in-line cappers, its the pits.
  5. This is just a test and only a test. Had this been a real - - - - - - - -
  6. If your setting up a rifle for long range, then set it up with target sights. I use the Soule sight from my other long range rifles. I bought another base and mounted on my rifle. I record my sight setting for each range I shoot at. While both calibers will work, my preference would be the 357 with heavy bullets (180 to 200 grains). What ever you do, be sure the rifling twist will support the weight of bullet you shoot. All of my long range rifles tend to work better (ie hit the target more times) when I shoot heavy bullets at moderate speeds.
  7. +4 MVA Soule sites. Most of the sights came with the rifles I have bought along the way. I also started out with MVA's tallest, and the one the has the most windage (real handy when shooting 1000 yards). All my rifles wear the MVA sight bases except one. Its a Baldwin, its a really nice sight. But the Baldwin screws turn opposite direction than the MVA. Nothing wrong with that, except but my habit is to think its an MVA and that can be confusing at times. As for front sights, all my rifles have globes with the inserts and bubble level. The level comes into play at the longer ranges. It keeps canting errors to a minimum. While I started out with an MVA front sight, it didn't take long to figure out that was a mistake. That little tab on top of the sight that holds the inserts in the sight snags on everything and it isn't long before it breaks off and you lose the insert. You have to send the sight back to MVA for repair. I now use globe sites have screw in caps to keep the insert in place, much better. I install mine so the screw cap faces the muzzle. A lot easier to use that way, just stand the rifle up on it's butt and work the screw. I have used Baldwin front sights for years now, and have found had no reason to change.
  8. If you’re only going to buy one rifle, the best is the 45-70, brass and bullet are easily to come by. I have several calibers which include the 38-55, 40-50 SBN, 40-60, 40-65, 40-80, 45-70 and the 45-90). I have shot 50 yards to 1200 yards matches. The most versatile is the 45-70. I only shoot Swiss BP in mine. I have found that with the right BP loads, I can hit the target more times than using smokeless. When you go looking for the rifle, buy a target rifle with a heavy weight barrel. Hunting weight rifles make for poor performing target rifles. Get a rifle with a pistol grip and one with shotgun type butt. Get a high quality Soule type rear sight (the ones with windage adjustments). Forget about the Lyman and Marble tang sights. Get a globe front sight with the bubble level. There are lots of high wall rifles on the market, but the one where you get the most bang for your buck, is the Browning BPCR, which comes from the factory with a Badger Barrel (sort of the gold standard for single shot rifles) and the correct target type sights. If you go looking for a Browning BPCR, don’t buy any other Browning 1885 single shot, they are not the same as the BPCR. One other thing, when I first started out, I bought a military rolling block action thinking I could save a few bucks by assembling it myself with barrel, socks, etc . Wrong!!! By the time I bought everything and then paid the gunsmith to put it together, I spent more money (and more than a year waiting) than if I had just went out and bought a nice new long range rifle.
  9. The shooters over at the American Single Shot Rifle Assoc. Forum talk about breech seating bullets a lot. ( http://www.assra.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=reload) You might ask them.
  10. There are several makes tang mounted sites that work well. If long range means several hundred yards, rather than all the way back to end of the pistol pits, then you need a high quality soule type sight, like an MVA, or Baldwin, or Shaver. Don't go cheap on a sight, especially if you want to walk up front and claim 1st place. Once you learn how to use them, high quality soule sights a fast to set up and quick to change setting for different yardages. They flat out work every-time. I have use mine for 20 years and no problems.
  11. Well said!! Only one trouble with your suggestion, it would'n favor the local shooters.
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