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Cowboy Junky

Territorial Governors
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Posts posted by Cowboy Junky


  1. So has anyone done this? I have a set of birdshead grip frames in blue for the original Vaquero (bird in hand and they were cheap...…..lol) and I can't find any thing but SS grip frames new. I don't want SS grip frames on my blued guns and like I said I already have blue OMV ones. 

     

    I know this isn't a straight up swap that's not what I'm asking......the cocking rods are longer, the main springs are different and the cutout in the grip frame for the main spring/cocking rod is also longer in the OMV. grip frame. Also there are tabs on the OMV grip frames that are not on the NV. So what I'm asking is can it be overcome? Has anyone done it? 

     

    By using the OMV cocking rods working the springs out and milling off the tabs?  The mounting holes are the same for sure I have checked that out but are the holes for the base pin latch etc the same? 

     

    Thanks for any help. 

     

     


  2. On 10/23/2020 at 8:47 AM, Rye Miles #13621 said:

    So after all the great advice and tips which I do appreciate, my original question stands unanswered.

    Does the 66 feed better with .38's than the 73's in .357?<_<

    No. The internals are the same. It's all about how the rifle is setup. If you are shooting a stock rifle maybe........but my gut tells me it's not stock. Or is it? Once you drop a kit in (and/or an aftermarket carrier block) everything changes and it's all about proper setup more than the cartridge length. You just have issues in the basement around 1.42. The only difference in the rifles is the candy coating..........lol. 

     

    From what another person on this thread said it even sounds like the barrels are the same.........if his 66 will chamber a 357 (I never tired) so it's probably just stamped 38. I always heard it was the brass frame that was the reason they wouldn't rate them for magnum loads...too soft. I do know both my 66's in 44 & 38 were specials.......no 66's in magnum's I know of.  Unless maybe the OLD ones that had different internals and lever safeties. 

     

    Buying a different rifle isn't going to help....setting it up correct will make either run fantastic.  Good luck

    • Like 1

  3. I always write in lines and like it when people use them. If they forget it or don't want to use it as some prefer I don't stress over it. IMO if you want people to use them make them simple and not have em' give a speech...........lol

     

    One thing I'll never do is write in a line where the TO and shooter interact........what a confusing, awkward time wasting exercise of frustration that is.....did I type that out loud!? 

    • Like 1

  4. I use to cast when I shot 44's. I would go to events (back years ago) and the vendors always had an abundant selection of bullets even 160 grain 45's but no 44 stuff. If they did they had 200 grain lead. I wanted lighter so I had to start making my own. That was also before Gov't over-reach and you could just go get wheel weights from a tire shop............lol.

     

    When I went to 38's I dropped the bullet making like.....well......hot lead. 

    • Haha 1

  5. I'm certain the rifle has to be set up for the shooter........or it can be outran.......and I have done it. I was at a match and had to borrow a rifle because I trashed another italium lever on a 73. The rifle I used was 73 with a lever safety and had a very light hammer used by one of those thumb planter shooters who are very popular in these parts. Thanks by the way!

     

    He could shoot the rifle very close to my split times.....if not equal and the rifle ran like a dream for him. I didn't have time to test fire it so I used it in the next stage. I threw 3 or 4 rounds out that were heavily dimpled but didn't fire. Remember the gun had a lever safety so it wasn't a "timing" or lack of timing or me not hitting the trigger or they wouldn't have that heavy dimple. They had what I call a ghost strike....just a very light scratch from the momentum of the firing pin overpowering the firing pin spring and hitting the primer but not enough to dent the primer let alone fire those soft little federal 100's.

     

    All of us came to the conclusion the hammer was too slow so I asked if I could turn it up. I turned the main screw two turns at least.......maybe three (this was several years ago) and since my match was trashed I didn't test fire it again. The next stage (and the rest of the match) it ran like a Swiss watch. I think it has to do with how long and/or when you pull the trigger in the your particular cycle. I hit the trigger right as the lever closes whereas many roll down the face of the trigger and keep the lever closed longer. I really couldn't tell you for sure what's causing it unless we get a high speed camera and film it........but I can tell it happened.

     

    There are a lot of great shooters here saying it's not possible but again maybe they have similar styles? Something is happening.........good conversation.

     

     

    I can't speak about the pistols because I'm still learning how to shoot them.......lol


  6. I am going to start re-loading my 38 special ammo and want to know what you think about the various brands of primers. I have Taylor's Smoke Wagon pistols that were tuned before I got them so the hammer spring is light but the cowboy ammo that I previously purchased from a local gunsmith works 100%. I have a Lee turret press and their documentation says to use extra care when using Federal primers. What is your experience?

     

    Regards

    Chestnut Louie

     

    IMHO you are better off thinking what kind of primers do my guns need. That depends on who built them, how much you lightened them or what other mods have been done as well. My rifle shoots anything because the hammer speed I need. My pistols shoot anything because the transfers bars are gone which makes ignition much easier. The SG is an SKB and to get it to feel and operate the way I want it to I have to shoot "easier" to ignite primers in it.

     

    Then you have my wife's 73 that's set up so light (for her) I have to use Federals or possibly Winchester but it's on the fence so to simply my life (and keep me out of the dog house) I just use Federal on everything.

     

    The people that get in trouble are the ones that buy race guns and still want an anything goes mentality.....that leads to too many problems so they tell you not to mess with stock guns etc. If you know what you have and make the right choices you get the best of both worlds and you don't have to settle.


  7. Sometimes those sights come in handy IMO. I tried SS and had too many misses......that was before you could paint em' so I had to switch back to blue. For me I could pick up the blue better.....I guess the SS was too busy.

     

    Now that you can paint them it's not a big deal but and I guess shooting plate steel at 5 yards or less they don't serve much of a purpose but when the bonus targets, stars, plate racks and stuff pop out it's nice to know you can hit them when the chips are down.


  8. Leather is pliable when wet. If you soak the loops with water and then insert the shells with the tape on them and let it dry naturally the leather will conform to the new dimensions.

     

    That's what I did....plus the amount of tape you add to the shell will let you "groom" the fit. Too tight they don't come out....too loose and they fall out when you run.


  9. From what I found it ONLY matters if you are playing around at the bottom of the charge levels. I use to shoot light loads 8 years ago and noticed a difference then. I took 50 rounds of Clays 38 loads and put them in the freezer over night......say zero deg.

     

    When I woke up I put them in a cooler with ice and went straight to the range and shot them though the Chrono vs ammo at ambient temp. I don't remember the temp that day but it was average say 75 deg or so. There wasn't much of a difference in velocity maybe 50 FPS but if your at the low end that could make a difference.

     

    IMHO now I just shoot mid range loads (800+ in the pistols and 1000+ in the rifle) and you don't have to worry about it......winter spring summer or fall.


  10. Looking at the horrendious prices asked (and gotten) for SKBs, my question is: what makes them worth these asking prices?? I have handled and shot them, but fail to see what the aura is for them. I have been using a Stoeger for the last 10 years and have had NO issues with it, and they only cost 400.00. Is it just the glam factor ie: Colt vs Ruger, or am I missing something? Inquiring mind.

     

    Happy New Year to All.

    Al

    I wouldn't switch then. I had the opposite feeling so the decision was easy. I was at a match and trained wrecked a 97 and Dirt Merchant & Fast Eddie told me I should try to shoot a double. I told them I tried a few doubles and hated them. Dirt was just starting to build SKB's and he took me over to his truck and showed me 3 SKB's he had just built. I picked it up and feel in love with it right OFF the bat. That was the single best move I ever made in SASS.


  11. Edit's not working and I also forgot to add that the rifle was sent away for a really nice trigger job as well. I "think" Slater did the work but Widder dropped it off for so I'm not 100% on that. I'll get with Widder and make sure about the Smith.....but either way the trigger is very very nice.


  12. I have a really nice Short Stroke Marlin for sale. It's built by Cowboy Carty and is a 20 inch 38/357 Deluxe. The stock has been modified to a crescent style and is the exact same as a Uberti 73. The balance is more "flat" as the 73 as well and IMO makes the gun handle better. Guns looks great and doesn't have the usual SASS dings......lol

     

    If you have any questions PM me. I have pics I can email you as well. $1350 plus actual shipping.

     

    Here's a video of me test driving it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPe7DDAPRTE

     

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