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The Polish Pistolero

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Posts posted by The Polish Pistolero

  1. A question on loading using the RCBS cowboy dies - when you roll in the top rim, does that roll or crimp blow out when fired?


    I like the brass hulls. They fall out easily from the chambers. But my loads with straight hulls are a pain to load. A little roll would make loading much smoother.

    It blows out a bit! I crimp them a lot more then stated in an above post, but I use a pair of needle nose pliers and give the hull a few twists around the closed pliers! Not enough to make a flair just to straighten out the mouth! I have to admit, my pattern is the same with the 1/2" fiber wad, as with the BP10 wad! However, like in my video way back on page one or two, I drop 60 grains of APP through my Size-Master MEC, nitro card, wad and 1 1/8oz of shot! So, it leaves about a 1/2" void above the overshot card and glue it down with DUCO or now Super Seal! Its twice as much glue for the same price as DUCO! My UMC brass is a bit longer, so when I crimp it, I have to stop short or it will choke the shell down to an extra full turkey choke size!


    I did see a neat modification to the shells! I haven't done it, but might. Fill a de-primed shell with a 1/4" of lead (molten) and after its cooled, drill out the flash hole and primer pocket, thus adding an extra bit of weight to chuck spent hulls from the barrels! It may be a time to drill out the pocket to accept 209's and increase the flash from the primer!

  2. Lots of explanation marks there PP. Maybe it's difficult plastic wads. Maybe it's the smoothness of the bores. Could have been the high humidity. But I had no buildup goo of any kind. Just a tinge of black soot. I just ran enough water through the bores to dampen the soot. No soap, no vinegar, no Simple Green, no WD40.


    Same with the rifle. A little water and bore snake.


    I shot 100 shots through my two Cattleman 45s loaded with BlackMZ over two days and did nothing to them until I got home. I swear they were cleaner than when I shoot my Unique loads. I did water them down and then dry them out and give them a coat of Bore Butter.


    We'll be shooting 6 stage match Saturday. I'll shoot the whole match without cleaning and see what comes out.

    You will be fine! I've done a 2 day 10 stage match without doing a thing till after I goy home! My '51 Navy's get a bit stiff after 5 stages in the rotation, but just a dry wipe on the cylinder face, and all good again!


    Another thing, Black MZ, is FFFg but nowhere on the bottle says that! I use APP or Shocky Gold which is a premium APP in FFFg for cartridges, and FFg in the brass shotshells. However I've used FFFg in the shotshells, and couldn't tell the difference! The only reason I don't use Black MZ, is price! Normally its a couple bucks more then APP!


    Have a good shoot this weekend! And keep yer powder dry!

  3. I shot a 10 stage match over the past weekend with my brass hulls loaded with BlackMZ, 10 gauge plastic cup and 1 oz shot. I shot 45 shells in total with no missfires or problems of any kind. There were some knockdowns but were set easy.


    The TO commented that the pattern was extremely tight on my loads. Odd because the CZ-USA has cylinder bores. I've 5 left loaded. I may pattern a few and compare with loads with fiber wads.


    I took a squirt bottle (like a ketchup bottle you'd find in a cafe) filled with water and after each stage I'd dampen the bores with water and pull a snake through one time. Every time the bores on the CZ-USA looked like mirrors. I'm sure I could have shot each day's match without moping the bores but it only took a minute.


    There were 6 shotgun targets on the last stage and I didn't bother cleaning the gun until I got home. I ran really warm water through the bores and 90% of the black just washed out. I pushed a wad of paper towel through one pass. Then a paper patch with Bore Butter.

    Black MZ is made by APP for Alliant! If you were to talk to either of their tech lines, mopping and using lube is discouraged! When I have used the 10 gauge wads, I get a real goo in the barrels. When I get home, I spray all the guns down with Simple Green or Windex with out ammonia in the formula. (I did use ammonia once, and it took spots of bluing off my Ruger's!) Afterwards I spray everything down with WD-40 (for what WD-40 is designed for) to disperse any water in the Simple Green or Windex! Then swab out with Hoppe's, and wipe down. Everything comes out like new!


    Oh, by the way, after you shoot, and you retrieve your brass, drop it in a container of vinegar and water! Then tumble like normal!

  4. I shot some of my loads with new Magteck brass and compared the fired and new hull and found no expantion of the hulls. The 10 gauge plastic cup and top card worked just fine.

    I have used the 10 gauge plastic wads also, my only complaint was the residue in the barrel afterwards! Perhaps since I use APP, with a very light charge load, is why I don't blow a hole in my pattern!


    Another thing about Magtec brass, is I have found a few with the flash hole off center and have broke the de-priming pin on the RCBS die tool! Now, all my brass are opened up and aligned!


    As for the other pards comment about the "C" clips slipping and not keeping the de-priming held securely, I used some collet rings that have a set screw on the shaft! Problem solved! Found them at True Value for about .50 cents each, so not a big investment!

  5. I only do 12 ga. brass! I started with the Magtec from BPI, and came across a ammo can of UMC brass once fired! Takes a bit longer to load then smokeless, but its routine now! I use a MEC press to drop, and insert wads by hand, then a RCBS die set to slightly roll crimp then a bead od Duco glue to secure the overshot card! Here's a video link of me: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFdAHWvyR98


    Oh, and its a literal blast to shoot them!

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