The Polish Pistolero
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Posts posted by The Polish Pistolero
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Thanks y'all! I appreciate the SASS family more and more every day! I didn't get a chance today to do anything on them, and I do like how they turned out. I think instead I will get another couple pairs and work with them for a switch out pair for a different outfit, like I do suspenders, hats, shirts, pants, and boots! Heck, as anybody that knows me, I try to wear a different outfit at every shoot in some different combination! I have 5 sets of different pistols, 5 different shotguns, and 6 different rifles! So, accessorize at everything! Guns, and what they wear!
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10 hours ago, J-BAR #18287 said:
You might try a dab of bleach on the inside of the grip as a test, just to see if they can be lightened a bit. Or maybe some peroxide in a little hidden spot...
I love experimenting with stuff like this, and I applaud your courage!!
I tried the bleach idea, and it didn't touch it cold! I would use heat, but with bleach and heat might not be a great idea standing over a pot (chlorine gas). I'm going to try some Rit dye remover today, and just start over if it takes. I do kinda like the darkness, it's growing on me!
I got reamed out on CasCity, for not being authentic to the period with the guns being unblemished like a new gun with thousand year old looking grips!
Maybe its me, but another reason I'm not a reenactor or a NCOWS shooter!
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Ya, I was hoping for quite a bit lighter! The stock grips were just too bright. I tried tea on some other white plastic (not the same material) and it didn't touch it! So, I opted for the dye, just left it in too long! They look better then the bright white on the deep blue. If they were nickel, I would have left them alone.
Stock picture from gungrip.com . I didn't take a before and after picture, but the ones I used were brighter white!
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The dye used.
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Here is what I ended up with!
Deuce Stevens recommendation of Sunshine Orange, and then I added Golden Yellow Rit fabric dye, since the orange seemed a bit too dark, 2 cups hot water and a cup of distilled vinegar, heat to simmer not allowing to boil stirring constantly for 15 minutes. Rinse and dry. The second Schofield is at the leather guy making holsters, so just having the other set of grips ready when it comes back!
What do y'all think?The grips are from N.C. Armory (gungrip.com)
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Don't know about Uberti's but on the S&W Performance Center Schofields, the barrel joint pivot and joint pivot screw (hinge pin and hinge pin screw - Uberti) do not have a locking tab. If tightened too tight or if lok tite is used, it may be difficult to impossible to loosen. You might try penetrating oil then clean the flat head of the joint pivot (hinge pin) with alcohol to remove the oil. Then press against the clean head of the joint pivot with a rubber pad or something similar as hard as you can and try to remove the screw. (Learned this the hard way - I used lok tite - ONCE!)
Also, regarding the misfires, again this applies to the S&W (looks the same on the Uberti schematic I have), but I had a similar problem with off center primer strikes / misfires. After investigating what was happening over a couple of years, I found that the cylinder stop pin (bolt pin - Uberti) was bent and prevented the cylinder stop from engaging, though sporadically. I noticed that, while rapidly cocking the hammer, the cylinder would sometimes over rotate. When I pulled the cylinder stop pin and placed it on a flat surface, I could tell that it was slightly bent. I straightened the pin and have not had an issue since.
Thanks! I removed the bolt, and sure as s#*t, it was slightly bent! I went ahead and ordered a new one, incase I weakened the one from the gun. I did use a bit of heat, and quenched in oil to harden it back. Did that before with a chisel and it made it too brittle, and shattered when I hit it!
Still working on the pivot, but I don't want to heat it much so it ruins the bluing! Going to try a heat gun when I get it from storage. If he used red Loctite, I'll need the heat! Might try the wifes hair dryer tonight, and see if it gets it! I did the de-greasing, and have a rubber grip pad for jars. So, with any luck! From a gunsmith video I watched on assembly/dis-assembly of one of these, it was emphasized to align the tab on the head of the receiving side of the pivot bolt with notch in barrel! I figure either the other feller broke the tab, or it never had one like you are thinking and he glued it in! I'll see, when I get it apart.
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Did a bore alignment inspection, and see the cylinder is a bit out of time! Who is a good Schofield smith to time it correctly? This is a Navy Arms Uberti, my other is a Stoeger Uberti.
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Just got a pair of Schofields from another shooter. Was able to shoot one of them since I dropped the other at a holster maker to be patterned. I have no idea how the other shoots, or if it even shoots!
The question is since I have no experience with one; Is the primer strike acceptable to be off center? I know the suggestion is to use Federal primers, since I use Winchesters! But, I had a few misfires. They would go off after the second hit. I only had maybe 3 misfires out of 50 rounds. I removed the grips and side plate, and it was quite dirty inside. I cleaned it all up, and lubed the moving parts. I haven't shot it yet to see if that improved it or not!
Another thing is the barrel hinge bolt/screw will not loosen. It will just turn, and the back up nut will not remain locked down, so I figure the tab has been twisted off. Any suggestions on holding the head while in-screwing the screw?
And one more thing! Under the grip at the main spring tensioner screw, there is a piece of plastic pinched between the screw, and the spring! Is this a modification to make the main spring stiffer?
Thanks in advance for any insights! Pp
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I have a RCBS, a Lyman 1200, and a Frankfort Arsenal! I've replaced the motor 3 times with the first RCBS, they replaced the tumbler once then I did the motor two more times! I got the Lyman about the same time as the first RCBS, and its still working! The Frankfort was replaced once in 5 years, but the cost on it from Grafs is cheapest of all at $30 for the tumbler! I'd say for a dry tumbler, I would suggest the Lyman!
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Works fine for me also! Thanks all!
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IAC CB97 with a Brushed Hard Chrome Finish and has all the updates and modifications, Coyote Cap signature and action number on the bolt, very nice regular wood, set up to hold 6 in the mag tube. Everything, except the springs and some small screws, is hard chromed. These sell for $895.00 delivered to your FFL. There is a waiting period to complete the work, estimated time is 5 - 7 weeks. If it makes it easier for you I can take a down payment of $350.00 with balance due when yours is ready to ship. Payment is by postal or bank money order. If you are making a down payment your personal check will be ok. Contact me at outlawgambler@gmail.com for ordering and payment information.
I have a limited number of VERY NICE high grade stocks available for an additional $100.00 upgrade.
This is a great '97! Smooth as butter, and prettier then my wife! Ooops did I type that out loud? Good thing she isn't on the wire! LOL
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I can't reply to posts either on the "Merchants Corner"! I asked Allie, and Amber months ago, with no resolution yet!
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Like everybody else said, that GunSmoke was, and is the best shoot around! I didn't do real good, but I did only have one miss from 12 stages! My wife (Sunrise Rider) did way better then me and came out in 3rd place Lady Wrangler! The venders where awesome, and the chow wagon on the range was great! The two provided meals where fantastic, and filling! However most of all, BIG thanks to Ahlman's and the Cedar Valley Vigilantes! This was a world class shoot, and everything the MD's did was done to perfection! Except the rain on Thursday. They just couldn't stop that! The only thing it really interfered with was the Black Powder Exhibition night shoot! That would have been a hoot!!! Well, maybe next year!
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I did this year, but it took a bit to get my new card!
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When I take mine out, I use Never Dul wading. I polish it about every 3rd match! My '66 has an aluminum carrier, and it cleans up with just a wipe of either Hoppe's or Rem-Oil, then dry wipe it! The only lube I use is greese on the links, and side plate and a dab on lifter arm and springs! I like my carrier to shine, thus it has very little risistance in the frame anyway!
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APP says you can use filler too. "The filler should be composed of an acceptable material as recommended by the Single Action Shooting Society
What is an acceptable filler recommended by SASS?
George Baylor's little take on APP and filler is cut pieces of backer rod foam! About 3/8" long or amount to fill the area under where the bullet sets! from Black Powder for Dummies article and website. http://curtrich.com/bpsubsdummies.html
I've used backer rod and .410 fiber cushion (non-lubed) wads in .45 Colts. The "Smoke factor" for Frontier Cartridge is achieved with a lot less then a full house load of powder like gets suggested by a lot of dark side shooters.
As American Pioneer CO. says use NO lube, as their powder produces moisture, unlike BP or other subs! A lubed wad may contaminate the loaded powder, causing a miss-fire!
Black MZ and APP may be made by the same parent company or may not, but by formula it is way more similar to each other then 777 or Pyrodex! The only real fault I see with Black MZ, is granulation size! As it is not specified as F, FF, FFF, or any choice to purchase! On the other side, a rep from APP told me using FF or FFF in a cartridge or hull will produce the same amount of smoke, and performance if loaded the same by weight or measure! As to that, APP recommends charge should be measured in weight grains, not volume! The only other thing is consistency to loads between lot #'s, or even bottles! With APP premium or Shock Gold, loads will be more consistent, as the QA is more scrutinized!
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And to add to the accumulation of .02!
The Magtec brass, one/fifty hulls, the flash hole isn't in the center of the primer pocket! You will eventually open up the hole to allow the de-priming pin to remove the spent primer without bending or breaking the replaceable pin! Good things come in two's! Call where you get the brass, or Magtec, with your complaint and they will replace the whole box! Second, call RCBS, and they will replace the broken pins with a whole pack of replacement pins! Like was said, their cost of the set is penny's, so they will not be loosing a lot of profit!
As for the collar keeper, any hardware store should have them. Just take the shaft from the set to get the size you need. Tru-Value or even Fastenal should have them if you don't have an Ace Hardware!
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Thanks PW! Now the issue of a good web page! The one listed http://www.thegunshop.org/ doesn't work! Just need to clarify that also! IF, the supplier still exists!!!
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As a match director, granted only local level, we get SASS numbers from those that belong, but several people write any ole' number! I have no idea why other then they can't remember or it is completely made up thinking they MUST belong to be able to shoot! We have sent our shooters numbers to SASS HQ to comply with the affiliation agreement! Have never been contacted for discrepancy's!
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It appears to be an unlisted external modification.
That would make it ILLEGAL.
REF: SHB p.3
So, since this hasn't gained any traction since February! Has any final determination on legality of this modification been made? Nobody has been discussing them, and the website is defunct, or has it changed? I understand you say its illegal by appearance! What is final say by the Wild Bunch Committee? Just looking for clarification, as I'm still interested!
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One other little comment!
On the Lee classic cast, Hornady, and the Lyman press, you will or should have the lock nut machined thinner so it will allow proper die depth for all the operations! The nut that comes with the RCBS set is designed to work with the RCBS press! It will work without the lock nut, but the die could come out of adjustment and will be one more thing to watch after doing a string of shells!
Two more cents from my insights!
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The question asked in the begining of this thread is "Does the RCBS Die set remove the crimp?"
NO, on the depriming pin, there's a round knob (for lack of a better name) that is designed to center the pin on the tool!
What I use to open the crimp a bit to reload them, is a pair of needle nose pliers that have rounded tapered jaws that I make a couple spins in a hull before I reload them as a first step!
I've loaded and fired all of mine at least 20 times each, and only have had one start to split, and that hull is a WW2 UMC Remington hull that is a tad longer then my Magtec hulls. I had crimped it at full stroke of the press by accedent and made the hull almost a extra full turkey choke out of that hull! It opened up after it was shot, but definitely weakened the hull!
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Thanks Ambush, and Outlaw Gambler! It and any big match is a chore! Not that I'm complaining at all, just saying!
As we build up our range in Ripon, with luck our long range 200 yard bay will be done by next year! Having it on the old range and needing to travel back and forth was, and is a real pain for the side matches. So, like I said, with any luck!
Another thing is any suggestions of improvement, or changes will always be welcome. Contact either my self, Doc Bonecutter, or Sunrise Rider. I know other dates might be suggestions, but with other shoots, and area activitys may or will conflict with either our shoot, or lodging!https://www.facebook.com/Liberty-Prairie-Regulators-163117277080461/ or http://www.riponcowboys.com/
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One thing I'd like to find is a 10 gauge shell holder! However, I have my 10 gauge Sizemaster that perhaps MEC has the depriming kit for one of those!
New SASS Regulators
in SASS Wire
Posted · Edited by The Polish Pistolero
Thanks again! We are honored by the nomination, and presentation of being SASS Regulators.
I haven't been on the wire for a bit since our internet and data usage is really limited! Our chance to get to a shoot around here in Arkansas has been delayed due to getting settled! We want to get shooting soon, and many of the clubs around us have invited us. Time, and opportunity will present itself as it will! Our trigger fingers ARE getting itchy!