Smokestack SASS#87384

8pt crimps will tend to shuck more consistently from a double than 6pts will, but other than that, it doesn’t make a whole lot of difference.

There’s a lot of potentially dangerous advice being given in this thread. Unless you’re having loads tested by a ballistics lab, shotshell recipes should be followed exactly as published including the brand of primer. That being said, there is a load in the Hodgdon load data that’s available online that will work very well for cowboy. Look under 1oz loads with STS hulls and Perfect pattern powder. The one I tested used a Cheddite primer and is 970fps. The stack height is correct and they crimp very nicely.

Rifle last has a likely hood to add inconsistency to scoring. It’s all good until a buckaroo steps to the line and shoots a .22 through a window.

Spotters don’t call “P”s, TOs do. The spotters are generally expected to inform the TO if they witness one but ultimately the TO decides what the call is.

I prefer a small to medium brass bead and the semi-buckhorn rear sight. For me the semi-buckhorn is faster/better than a flat top and yes, I’ve spent quite a few trigger pulls behind each. It really comes down to personal preference. Try a bunch of stuff and see what works best for you. As for the big front beads covering that target on longer shots, if you set them up for a 6 o’clock hold, you won’t have that issue. Again, do what works for you.

The o-ring is not a hindrance at all. It’s quite the opposite. It allows the cap to be run in with just your fingers it til it just touches, and it stays there. It doesn’t get too tight or loosen up with use.

Thanks guys, I do make them. I’ll contact those who’ve expressed interest this evening.

Yes, but by their very definition, stage conventions only apply in the absence of specific instruction. For instance if the instruction were to stage long guns on the table in the window, the convention would stipulate that they lay flat as the table is a horizontal surface. But if the instruction were simply “stage long guns safely” the stage convention would not apply to any non horizontal surface, such as across that board or vertically against the wall.

People traveled half way around the world to shoot the biggest highest level championship there is. It is not a triviality and deserves more attention than that.

Every stage in a match can’t and shouldn’t IMO favor a double shooter. I saw plenty of videos of right handed double shooters who didn’t have any issues with the amount of space given on that stage. While it may not have been the ideal amount for how you would like to have staged them, it was enough.

Curious if stage instructions stated long guns flat on the table or if it read “staged safely”.

It is making a comeback. I can walk into the stores around here and get ammo that is appropriate for sass shooting as easily or more easily than I can 12 gauge.

I floated this on FB but curious what the wire thinks as well. Two part question. 1) Does anyone know why the minimum gauge for shotgun was set at 20 gauge for adults? 2) Given the recent resurgence of the 28 gauge and the availability of quality SxSs, would you support a rule change to allow it? If not, why? I personally think it would be a positive change particularly for some of our smaller and or recoil averse members.

Man, I wish I could be there, but I’ll be back next year. To anyone who hasn’t shot the plainsman match at BT, do it! Those boys know how to have a good time.

Congratulations to Coyote Carson and Camp Hag on their overall wins at the Western Regional.

Does this rule change apply only to ROAs, or to all cap and ball revolvers? If an ROA so modified is no longer considered a percussion revolver, what then is it, and where is it allowed to be used? Will this verbiage be removed from the SHB? “- All center-fire or rim-fire ammunition must be designed to package the bullet, gunpowder, and primer into a single metallic case precisely made to fit the firing chamber of the firearm. The primer must be of the type that uses only a small charge of impact sensitive chemical that may be located at the center of the case head or at its rim.”

Thanks, and yes.

What ended up being the cause of the problem on the Stoeger?

I prefer the Forster collet puller on the bullet profiles that it works on. Much faster and easier on the body than the inertia pullers are.

With the stock off, open the action all the way and observe both hammers. If the sear doesn’t set, reach in with a prying tool and manual cock the offending hammer a bit more, if that causes it to set, you have most likely a wear issue with either the cocking lever, or the metal in the forend that it acts against. If that doesn’t make the sear set, the gun will need further disassembly to find the reason. If that’s the case, STOP SHOOTING IT until it is repaired. I’ve seen a piece of shot smashed into a hammer not h that caused a similar issue but also sometimes would fire when the action was closed (not good).

Not all Turkish guns are equal. I’ve seen Tri-Stars that are junk to put it politely, and Weatherbys that are quite nice quality. There are hundreds or more manufacturers in that country, don’t judge them all by the work turned out by a few.

LOL. Do you hold gunfighters to this instructions as well?

Nope. Not in a match anyways. The only time I’ll consider doing that is in a side match when going back and forth with a very close competitor and they do it first. It may be a teeny tiny bit faster, but a little too gamey and risky for me. Seen way too many times where the pistol hits the table just right and spins earning a SDQ. Time spent practicing laying it in a table would be much better spent learning to re-holstering more efficiently.

Most chokes in SASS are somewhere between cylinder and modified. Try some different ones and see what works best for you. Oh, and do not fire the gun with no choke tube installed.