Noah Cash

42 years ago today the love of my life said "I DO" standing along side me. She is a keeper, and I wonder how I got so lucky!

black vs smokless

As of today I have 339 days to go until both Hilda Billie and I are retired, her from the USPS, and I from Civil service, after my first retirement after 23 years USAF. Already planning on the shoots we are going to line up as we visit family and yet to be determined parts of this great nation.

In a nutshell, that is how my Hilda Billie started. Now she has a many CAS guns as I do. I also agree with above, make sure all her equipment is as top notch as you can get. That includes leather, guns, and costuming. In the long run you will find it is worth every penny spent in her enjoying this game as much as we do.

As an added thought, We have had a couple of instances locally where a dog became aggressive enough to attack other dogs or people even while leashed, and those dogs were "Put Down" on the spot by concealed handgun carriers. The end result was the person who was doing the shooting was justified, and the trauma to the dog owner was a real tragedy. It may be hard to have a Vet send the dog on, but the horror of having the dog sent on in such a violent encounter would be heartbreaking to the owners and others who may witness the encounter.

I got these revolvers back last night, and they work now. Brass or no brass, they slip hammer fine. The individual who transported them was also told that this was a deliberate design feature by Ruger, which is not true as evidenced by Ruger's E-Mail to me, posted earlier. All along that was my biggest issue in this resolution. The 'Smith was able to fix them without returning them to Ruger, I believe the firing pins length or the F/P Return springs were the issue. I Wouldn't expect the Smith to catch an issue like this because I expect that he would function check without brass, and not bother to load brass if all seemed well. I just don't appreciate the attempt at covering up issues by falsely claiming the design of the revolver caused it and I was supposed to request the slip hammer modification specifically. While this smith is a well known outfit, I am done with them mainly because of the misleading information. This was way to easy to get Ruger to deny the design feature crap. While I will not publically disclose this smith because this I hope was an anomaly and not the norm for them, if anyone wants to know who it was, send me a PM.

That would be Nellis AFB

mine is .45 LC, love it

So much of this discussion is an eye opener however the revolvers have worked fine since day one when there is no brass in them. It is doubtful that a standard function check would have caught it. I doubt that Ruger would install snap caps or any other type of dummy round to check clearances. I did polish and taper the forward top end of the transfer bar, enough to assure that the bar was NOT hanging up on the firing pin as t moved upward. I replaced the standard NMV Hammers with SBH Hammers, no change, put the standard hammers back in, same as before. I did receive a reply from Ruger: "Could you please provide us with more information on what you are referring to " Slip-Hammer" . Ruger does not recommend fanning the revolver however we do not design them differently because of this. " (My emphasis ) My biggest concern in all this is the LIE I was told by the person who tried to convince me that the failure to slip hammer, which mechanically is the same as fanning, was a deliberate design function by Ruger. Something is definitely wrong with these guns and I was told that they would correct the issue if I paid to overnight them at a cost of about $60.00. If its a Ruger oops fine they can fix it, if a screw up by the smith, ok they can fix it, stuff happens, but the customer should not have to pay for it nor should the customer be lied to in order to cover it up. I was fortunate enough to have a good friend able to hand carry these revolvers to the smith for me saving the $60.00 I do appreciate the discussion and hopefully when I get them back I may be able to shed a bit more light on them and this issue.

cylinder pin also has spring installed and feels like it has the same tension as other Rugers, double checked pin is installed all the way

My fault in not being clear, the transfer bar is coming up behind the firing pin as the trigger is pulled, and as long as there is no brass in the cylinder it does not interfere with the rotation of the cylinder. If there is brass in the cylinder the transfer bar STAYS UP as it should while the trigger is held back, however it stays forward placing undue pressure on the F/P causing the drag on the brass. As I release the trigger just a very slight amount it then lowers as it should as the trigger is allowed to move forward. With it in the up position and trigger back it will not float back and forth by the pressure put on it by the base pin. I could not even get it to move rearward using a tiny screwdriver inserted in front of the bar prior to the trigger allowing it to drop down in unison with the triggers forward movement. I pulled the hammer back a small amount, and tried to move the Transfer Bar and it seemed to be locked up tight with no forward or rearward movement at all. Once the trigger was forward, all was free again

The top of the transfer bar has been tapered and polished to be smooth, but not thinned. This is getting interesting. E-Mail sent to Ruger, reply expected within 3 days. I'lll keep you folks posted on the reply, but I think I know what it will be....

That is what I have been doing. My first thought was that the transfer bar was catching on the underside of the firing pin, but upon close examination the bar is over the pin for the first shot, and will not retract as the hammer is pulled back for the follow on shots. Even trying to help it retract by prying with a small instrument it does not drop back unless I release the trigger at least a small amount. The transfer bar is staying up and maintaining pressure on the firing pin, scribing a fairly good scratch on primers and casings if I pull hard enough on the hammer to get it to rotate the cylinder.

So far, thanks all who responded, My next E-Mail will be to Ruger customer service and get them to confirm / deny the slip hammering "feature". While I still firmly believe that I was being fed a line of BS, I do not want to create ill will by not checking all the bases. If Ruger states that they do in fact disable the ability to slip hammer, I will accept that and just let it go as a learning experience. If Ruger denies the blocking of that ability I want to let this gun shop know that the person answering the phone who is NOTthe 'Smith, is feeding customers a line of BS rather than just admitting an "OOPS". If it is an OOPS the customer should not have to pay for the shipping.

cylinder pin also has spring installed and feels like it has the same tension as all the other rugers

Firing pin retracts fine with good spring retraction when the trigger is forward, and transfer bar is down

Recently I received a pair of NMV's from one of the big name Cowboy Gunsmiths and have/had an issue. In order to shoot a bit faster, we sometimes "Slip-Hammer" by holding back the trigger and pulling back the hammer and releasing it repeatedly. Once brass was in the chambers, My new revolvers would NOT slip hammer. Empty chambers, no issue, worked fine, however the firing pin was being held forward by transfer bar and was scoring a significant line on brass and primers if enough force was applied to hammer to force the cylinder to turn. One revolver of the pair I couldn't get to turn at all. I called the smith, and was told that was a deliberate "Safety Feature" by Ruger, because they (Ruger) did not want them to be fired in that manner due to safety concerns. This Smith didn't disable that feature because I did not specifically request that it be disabled. Now I have 3 sets of Ruger's that do slip hammer fire fine, 2 sets of SASS NMV's and one pair I bought and "Tuned" myself. The standard NMV's I installed SBH Hammers and they still work fine. These 6 revolvers have worked fine since day one. This smith IS fixing this issue for me at no charge, and I can get these guns delivered by a friend to avoid $60.00 overnight shipping via FEDEX, so the issue is resolved, no names need be mentioned, however I don't believe the no slip hammer is a deliberate feature installed by Ruger. I believe that this story is a line of crap to cover up the fact that this issue should have been caught and fixed before sending these out as tuned and comp ready. My friend is much more gun savvy than I and he too believes that this line of crap is a cover up rather than admitting fault. Stuff happens, I just do NOT appreciate being lied to in order to cover up an oops that should have been caught! The question is,.....Have any of you folks run into this issue ? Have all your Rugers been able to Slip Hammer right out of the box? Am I mistaken in my belief that this is a line of crap?? Your input is / would be greatly appreciated!

We remove paint from Parkerizing and anodizing quite frequently and for our stuff paint thinner and solvent type thinners wont touch the Parkerizing. Even hard caustic strippers don't hurt the Parkerizing.

Couple of years a I won a Baikial, box stock, stiff, and tighter than a ducks butt. While at W/R I handled one of JM's slicked up Baikials and went to get my wife. I wanted to show her just what he could do with one of those Russian Tanks. She opened and closed his slicked up SG and wouldn't put it down again until she told him it was hers. She didn't want anyone else to pick it up and beat her to it. As soon as we got home from W/R, mine was boxed up and sent down to him. Best postage I ever spent!!

Dillon replaced mine just a few months ago. Call 'em

For the last couple of years I purchased brass from the Scouts, but ending up tossing probably around 10%, maybe a bit more, a fair amount had been stepped on and crushed beyond re-use, and the black powder residue corroded more. At ( If I recall right ) $15.00 per approximately 200 pieces, I passed on it this year. Probably will continue to pass, I'd MUCH rather tip for my own brass as I did at EOT a couple of years ago. Don't expect we will ever see that at WR due to the lay our of the shooting venues, much of the brass falls in front of the line or under the props. WR is such a great shoot and those props are a big part of that experience. I just use my older brass and be sure to look it over and drop each cartridge in a revolver cylinder (out of the gun!) to size check it prior to loading my plastic ammo boxes.

I had a bad reload in my shotgun, primer wad and shot, no powder. The primer had enough oomph to get the shot out of the barrel and the wad hit the target. ( I got credit for a hit) Glad it was not a knock-down!

Ordered a parir of SBH hammers a couple of days ago from Midway and they showed up as "Backordered" but they shipped yesterday. If anybody is wanting a pair now is the time. Get on it if you have been needing a pair.

All this stuff has changed many times since I moved out of N.Y. but I sure don't have any reason to go back to live. Utah is not my/our first choice for other reasons, however based on gun regulations, it is one of the top choices in the nation. New York would toss away the key to my cell if I /We ever went back there to take up residence!

Its an answer to a question that no one has asked!