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Abilene Slim SASS 81783

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Everything posted by Abilene Slim SASS 81783

  1. I have one of those adjustable measures for my MEC 650 but went back to the bushings. I found the device wouldn't always cycle reliably. A real PITA on a progressive. Wasted far too much time fiddling with it. YMMV https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1833518928/mec-powder-bushing
  2. Is it necessary to put an antenna at the top of the mast? FM is a line of sight signal that’s limited to the curvature is the earth, or geographical obstructions If you’re that far away from the signal, the height of your mast won’t make that much difference.
  3. Apparently someone made one, but this doesn't appear to be Mattel. I could be wrong, but I don't recall Mattel making licensed items. By 1965, I had already been shooting .22s for a couple of years and the toys were off my radar. Wish I still had my Mattel Winchester tho...
  4. I had forgotten they used any unique guns for the series. But back then, I knew nothing about those kinds of things. My gun awareness was westerns, "The Untouchables" and "Combat"
  5. See pages 15 and 22 SHB where this is addressed
  6. Launching a plane from an aircraft carrier with wings folded speaks to a failure of many people from the various deck handlers, shooter, pilot and up to the air boss. Especially the shooter. How the hell could he launch an aircraft in that condition? Would not want to have stood with any of them before the skipper. I wonder if any careers ended that day.
  7. An 1863 Sharps cavalry carbine. Was never converted after the war, so it still needs paper cartridges.
  8. Possibly "Dilbert". I've seen some of these in one of my dad's flight instruction manuals. http://www.askacfi.com/photos
  9. Yup. A number of years ago I was duck hunting in Missouri and a game warden motored up to our blind. Wanted to check ammo to make sure it was steel shot as well as magazine capacity. No problem of course. Afterward I was thinking it must take a certain kind of man who's willing to approach two armed strangers in a remote slough.
  10. Kinda like having Win. '97. One to shoot, another in the shop and 2 for spare parts.
  11. I've had the same experience with both Lee and Redding dies. Try backing off on the die, as 3/4 of a turn in my experience has produced the same results as you. Start with the bottom of the LFCD making contact with the shell plate/holder, then work your way up in 1/8 turns (or less) increments, but only if you're not getting enough crimp. I'm getting a good crimp with the die cranked up maybe 1/8 or less turn past the point where it lightly contacts the shell plate on a Hornady LNL progressive. If you crank a Redding Profile Crimp Die up 3/4 of a turn on my press, it will seat the bullet deeper as well as pull some of bullets right back out. It's also more likely to crumple cases as shown in one of Driftwood's photos.
  12. Found it on page 71 of Lymans Cast Bullet handbook, subheading "Auto Loading Pistols". The author recommends BHN of 15-20. I'll check out Glen Fryxell. Thx!
  13. Joe: That's interesting, just the opposite of my experience with a stock Colt barrel (Series 80, mid 1990s manufacture). I'll have to dig thru my manuals where one of them said (as I recall) the shallow rifling of a 1911 did better with a harder cast bullet. What diameter is your bullet? Louie: Yes they headspace at the case mouth. It's a taper crimp as opposed to a roll crimp on your .38s. If you crimp too much, you can smoosh a bit lead out at the mouth, kind of like a muffin, which won't feed well. Too little crimp and the bullets can be pushed back into the case when the cartridge hits the feed ramp. Those also don't feed well either.
  14. It'll feed well if you the get OAL just right. If/when you get to reloading, I recommend Missouri Bullet's IDP #4-XD. It's a 200 gr RNFP with a Brinell of 18. I find this harder bullet works better in my 1911 - less leading than the Brinell 12 I had been using. Great accuracy too. They also make the IDP #1 200 gr SWC. I've just loaded up a batch of IDP #4-XD - Hi-Tek bullets, but haven't had a chance to shoot them yet. Missouri Bullet Co. More than you probably wanted to know.
  15. Whether the cost matters depends on how many rounds one plans to shoot. Generally, I don't shoot that much smokeless, so the cost/benefit ratio of TB works for me. My cases come out almost squeaky clean with a mid range load under a 200 gr bullet. TB gets sooty when loaded at the bottom and below range. YMMV Loads below are midrange from Hodgdon. 9 oz = 656 rounds with a 200 gr bullet and 6.0 grains TB per container; $17.29 at Grafs = 2.6 cents/round or $26/1k rounds 14 oz = 1331 rounds with a 200 gr bullet and 4.6 grains Clays per container $19.69 at Grafs = 1.5 cents/round or 15/1k rounds Difference of $11 per 1k rounds Photo of 44.-40 (200 gr bullet) and C45S (180 gr) cases loaded with 6 and 4 gr TB respectively. These cases haven't been to the tumbler yet. The CS case is stained in the extractor groove due to years of loads with BP. This 44-40 case hasn't seen BP yet. BTW, shiny doesn't shoot any better than clean. The stained range brass I pick up shoots just as well.
  16. With a 200 gr bullet you'll need 750 fps to meet power factor for Wild Bunch. Adding on, if one goes too light on the recoil, the slide won't cycle reliably, especially if the gun is "limp wristed". It's easy to chase a lot of variables with a 1911 and it can get kinda spendy in a hurry if you're not careful. Suggest you live with yours for awhile before trying to "improve" it. Lots of great info on the internet and in books. Have fun!
  17. My son has a Ruger 1911, I have a stock Colt Govt. series 80. His Ruger gets the nod on the trigger, my Colt gets the nod on operating the slide. Very subjective, YMMV. For Wild Bunch, I don't think the difference amounts to anything. I prefer the beavertail on the Ruger. The Ruger has to be shot in modern category, my Colt can be shot in both, provided I black out the sights. I choose not to. I do know this for certain - all bets are off when it comes to feeding 1911s with reloads. Learned that from a book about 1911s, and found it supported by my experience at the range. I bought my Colt because I wanted a manufactured by Colt gun. All my others are replicas and I wanted something "original" as it were. Got it used (but could have passed for new) for less money than any of the others new. Again, YMMV. My 2 cents, nothing more.
  18. I never get in the middle of family dynamics. It's more fun to watch.
  19. I buy my smokeless bullets from Missouri Bullets. Brinell is 12. For black powder loads, I buy the Mav Dutchman series of bullets from Springfield Slim, a.k.a. Whyte Leatherworks. He makes good stuff. My bullet calibers are readily available for purchase plus, I don't shoot enough to make the cost and time of casting worthwhile. I ran the numbers, and it just doesn't work for me. Regardless, even if you decide not to cast, this book is the best and most comprehensive loading manual for our game. https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Cast-Bullet-Handbook-4Th/dp/B07PSNM3KV
  20. I've no idea. I just kept turning the die until I got the crimp I wanted. (.44-40) I doubt it's as much as 3/4-1 turn past the shell plate. Any more than that is unnecessary as it will over stress the brass at the case mouth or worse, buckle the case. I've never had bullets telescope into the case except dummy rounds after repeated cycling. Live rounds only need to last long enough for one trip thru the magazine.
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