Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933

The only thing useful to come out of this thread. I had not seen this before.

The ones marked NR were loaded with steel shot and the hulls have different interior dimensions. All other AAs are the same as far as reloading regardless of their color. The colors are different to help differentiate between "standard" trap loads or handicap loads or the high velicity sporting clays loads. Same with Remington. Their "standard" shells are green and the Nitros, i.e., handicap loads, are gold. Same hull just a different color. P.S. The new top of the line Federal HOA (High Overall Average) hull is a Remington STS dyed a reddish color. One company owns Federal and Remington so Federal is borrowing some components. Federal's "premium" shotshells have dropped in quality the past few years so they are trying to get back in the game with the HOA.

Pressure depends entirely on how you load them. Weak .38 Special load vs. hot .38LC load for example. I use the .38LC loaded with BP in Open Tops to make sure I do not mix up some .38 Special loads loaded with BP and other loads loaded with smokeless. Other than that a puss loaded .38 Special and a puss loaded .38LC are not going to be too much different if the bullet weight and velocity are the same.

Most of America looked like that in the early 1900s. Everyone seems concerned over global warming but the uncontrolled population growth would seem to be of more immediate concern.

Uptown and downtown are sort of like gender these days. There is fluidity.

You will have to address this question to Petula Clark. She started this mess with her song "Downtown."

Wear um once and throw them away. Also keeps your cart dry.

Longshot absolutely sucks for what you want. It is for heavy hunting loads. A friend bought some thinking like you and it was horrible for light loads. He had to give up on it for cowboy loads. Just got home so I will add a bit. If you look at the Longshot loading data none of the loads are below 1 1/8 oz, none are below 9,000 psi and none are below 1,400 fps. Longshot is NOT suitable for light cowboy loads. You cannot WAG smokeless powder.

The stock Deloreon only had a 130 HP engine and the speedometer only went to 85 and it took a while to get there.

Even the Gladiator has a soft heart for dogs.

Not really that hard. Many guns have quirks in how they come apart or go back together. Lightnings are really quite simple in design. As far as the "linkage" issue I can use the same photo I used earlier in this thread and just move the arrow. The pump has a rectangular slot in it. The tail of the locking lugs has to go into this slot. (Arrow.) The upper receiver contains the bolt and the lower receiver has the pump. The usual way to put them together is to put the pump at the half-way mark and move the bolt to the middle of its travel. Then as you press the two parts of the receiver together you wiggle the bolt a little until you feel the parts mate. The first couple of times it seems hard but after you have done it a couple of times no big deal.

When there are virtually no parts they all become problematic. Some vary by brand. For example a real weak point in the Uberti is the locking lugs. On the Colt this is a very substantial piece. Uberti decided to put a pin in place of two screws that retain the carrier and to accomdate the pin they had to make to locking lug leg far narrower from front to back and had to put a curve in it to go around the pin. The leg can snap off and finding a new locking lug can be a big problem. (They break at the red arrow.) I finally put an internal stop inside the pump so it would stop going forward about .005" before the lugs bottomed out in the receiver. That eliminated the stress and breakage. (So far. )

If SASS is your hobby and you buy a Lightning you will then have two hobbies. I have 18 or so of them and have been shooting them since 2000. The biggest problem is parts. Colt, USFA, AWA, Taurus are long gone and there are no parts. Theoretically Uberti and Pedersoli are still making Lightnings but I have waited for over two years for parts from both companies. Right now my main match gun is a modified 1st gen Uberti in .357.

I do not have a Schofield in my hands right now. My recollection is that when you remove the screw it pops up just a bit releasing the spring tension and will come out very easily. When you put it back you have to make sure the tail of the spring is in the notch and you have to push down on the latch to compress the spring and line up the screw holes. As I recall sometimes it is a little difficult as the spring is stiff.

A link showing what you are asking about would be useful.

Found this. Go to 7:45 and it shows removing the latch spring. It is the tail of this spring that has to fit into the notch on the latch. Unfortunately the guy does not show how to put the latch back in. File that spring and your latch will not work.

YIKES! No do not file away anything. You did not post a good CLEAR photo of what you are talking about but it sounds like the tail of the spring that tensions the latch. If that is what it is you have to depress the spring enough to get the latch back on.

The new "End of the line" category at End of Trail.

Maybe it is going to be twins.

Right now it costs me $8.00 a box to load my trap shooting loads. AA and STS ammo is running $13 - $14 a box. So I am actually saving some money.

This is off the Claybusters website. Notice anything? All the powders are large flake powders and all are using far more powder than 14 or 15 grains of a very dense small grain powder. Also notice the PSI for the bottom loads. Very low. So dropping even below those minimums is going to yield very poor results.

Brought to you by the same people that firmly believe a man can have a baby. There are now lots of pregnant man emoji's so you can express how you "feel." It does not do any good but occasionally I will show someone a .223 and a .30-06 and ask which one is more powerful? They still believe the .223 is some sort of modern shredder round.

Right now a lot of shotshell loadings are still scarce and they are far more expensive than before the pandemic. Reloading components are also more expensive and often hard to find. The one thing with reloading is you can load what you want when you want.

I guess I an missing something. Titegroup is a very good pistol powder. Titewad is a very good shotgun powder. I do not understand why the OP wants to reverse them.

As I have posted on several occassions despite what many people think shotgun primers are not freely interchangable. Each brand has slightly different dimensions and burn rates. Noble sports has, in fact, three different burn rates on their 209 primers. The only reason SASS shooters get away with imprecise loading procedures is because we are using loads that are well below the minimum most powder manufacturers recommend. Each reloading website and manual shows shotshell loads grouped by PRIMER BRAND and the loads are different from brand to brand. Comparing Clay Dot to Titegroup is an example. Clay Dot, Clays, Red Dot, etc. are large flaky low density powers that take up a lot of space in the hull. Titegroup is a fine dense power and takes up far less space as the same weight of Clays or Red Dot. What works for Clays will not work for Titegroup. This is from the Noble website. Type 209/684 inox of low power for progressive powders; Type 209/686 inox of medium power for medium powders; Type 209/688 inox of high power for faster burning powders.