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Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933

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Everything posted by Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933

  1. So much for the BS about CAS being so expensive. Heck go buy a bass boat, motor, rod and reel.
  2. Being forced to wear whatever those stupid green things are no wonder he looks bored.
  3. You guys have it all wrong. The real villian is Teeter. She has infiltrated the Dutton clan and is calling the shots from the inside. She is pure evil and the illegitimate daughter of John Dutton. She and Jamie are going to run off and get married.
  4. By the time I get to the point that I can't remember what foods I do not like, it won't make any difference. I'll be at the home drooling in whatever they bring me.
  5. The Dillon 900 has been replaced by an electric drive Spolar.
  6. There are no primers to buy so that excuse don't wash.
  7. Louisville slugger for $300.00! What the heck does a glove cost these days?
  8. I'll have to watch it again. Reminded me of the old movie serials. The hero is going over a cliff in a car screaming his head off on the way down. Yet, in the next episode the hero miraculosly jumps out before the car goes over the cliff.
  9. Hodgdon only recommends it for pistol loads. They market the stuff so I guess I would believe them.
  10. I thought you said they were for reloading.
  11. Low overhead. That is how they have such good prices.
  12. The planning for Winter Range and now End of Trail goes on year round. The planning and small prop construction goes from indoors to outdoors in the fall when the summer temps begin to drop. This past Saturday it was a mild 89 degrees and the containers of props were opened for the first time in months. The final Winter Range was cancelled because of Covid and this was the first opportunity to look at props built last year and to examine the drawings and plans for structures to be built for EOT 2022. Hundreds of props will have to be rebuilt or repainted to eliminate the old WR logos and to replace them with EOT logos. Here is one group starting work on some of the smaller props. Over on the other side of the yard another group begins examining the hundreds of targets to replace pivot bolts, pull chains, target hangers, etc., and to replace any plates that are showing signs of being pock marked or any signs of bending. The EOT targets are AR plate and are replaced on a regular basis. Those that have been to WR and will be making return trips to the new EOT have seen some of the phenominal stage fronts built by the Swiss Kid. Here he is just starting a new front. Other stage designers are also working on new stage fronts and they will be shown in future photos. Over the next four months as more work parties take place and the stages come together the Rough Riders will post more photos.
  13. I don't know what CRS is so you are one in front of me? Critical Race Science?
  14. Next up a word about feeding your double, i.e., shells. The common advice is to only used smooth sided hulls. I have only used ribbed hulls for several years. A word of explanation. Most shells made worldwide are Reifenhousser style hulls. (Often called Euro-trash hulls by high volume reloaders.) Virtually all of these hulls are ribbed. But it is not the ribs that cause shucking problems, it is the cheap construction and materials in these hulls. The plastic is formed into long tubes and then cut into shell length sections. The plastic tubes are in many cases much thinner than a premium American made shell. The tube is inserted into the rim portion of the shell and then a base wad pressed in to lock everything together. The heads, regardless of color, are steel. Steel expands but does not contract as readily as brass. The only shells still made with brass heads are the Remington STS series and the Winchester AA. (Some new "premium" AAs have steel heads but these are plated with nickle so they are easy to recognize.) So what you basically have are cheap Reifenhousser hulls that are made with ribs and premium American brass base shells that are smooth sided. Again, it is more a function of cheap vs. quality than the ribs or smoothness. A lot of guns, including very expensive guns, don't like steel heads. By expensive I am not talking SKB and BSS. I am talking Perazzi and Kreighoff. When people go to Walmart and buy the cheap four packs of Federal Red shells in addition to being cheaply constructed (i.e., Reifenshousser) they are frequently 3 dram, 1 1/8 oz loads. The pressure from these heavy loads expands the steel head and they stick. What I use exclusively for CAS shooting is the Remington Gun Club hull. These are extruded hulls that are basically an STS with a ribbed hull and steel head. Remington Gun Club on the left, Euro hull on the right. They are well made hulls and the plastic is thicker than the typical Euro-trash hull. If you are shooting at any level of competitiveness you have to have a case gauge. I have hit batches of brand new AAs that three or four out of every box would not chamber freely in my doubles. Finding this out in the middle of a stage is not the place to do it. In the photo the shell will go into the gauge with just LIGHT pressure with a finger. But, if a shell requires any force to go fully into the gauge it will take force to get it out of the chamber. Even just a fingernail flip to get a hull out of the chamber on the line is wasted time. On the gauge in the photo if a shell does not drop FREELY all the way to the rim you can stick the crimp into the knurled end of the gauge and give it a twist and it will iron out imperfections in the crimp area. Then retry on the other end and most of the time the shell will now gauge freely. If not toss it into the junk box. The Remington has a solid case head. As opposed to the Reifenhousser a hollow plastic tube is not inserted into the rim portion. Rather the Remington hull is solid on the bottom and the case head is crimped around the hull body. Thus the steel does not expand as much when the shell is fired. To make sure everything is set to spec the Gun Club hulls are all run through a Mec Super Sizer. This squeezes the head back to factory dimensions. Then they are loaded once and tossed. With light CAS loads the steel does not expand. The main area that causes shucking problems is the crimp. The more often a hull is reloaded the weaker the crimp area. (The shell in the sizer is a really crappy one that was grabbed from the junk box. Most look factory new.) I use to carry a rag and wipe each shell with silicon and brush the chambers between each stage. I no longer do either (except for BP) and have not had a failure to shuck in a long time. Just ran out to the garage and cut apart a couple of hulls for an addentum to make sure people understand the difference in hull contruction. The Reifenshousser is just a hollow tube. Left in the photo. The Remington has a solid head. Right in photo. The last photo is a close-up of the Remington head. It even has the rim shape in it. Several years ago all plastic hulls were offered as the metal rim did not increase hull strength. People just could not get use to the all plastic hull so they started putting metal rims back on. (The grooves in the Remington hull are saw marks from cutting off the metal rim.)
  15. Here are a few ideas. Hopefully the text and photos will come out in the correct order. The first thing is to inspect the chamber. If it is shiny and smooth there is little to be done. The primary thing to look for is roughness or ridges in the chamber. Flitz, for example, will make the metal shiny but it will not remove imperfections in the chamber. The best tool for the job is a chamber hone and the special oil that comes with it. Next up just take a rod and cut a slot in it that you can chuck in a drill motor. Wrap the abrasive cloth in the direction the rod will rotate. In the second photo I am pressing down on the rod to keep the cloth from unwrapping. Once in the chamber centrifical force will force it outwards. Apply oil and use fine cloth. Finally you can take a bore map and coat it with fine abrasive or for a final polish with something like Flitz. I screw it into a short section of cleaning rod so I can make sure it is fully into the chamber when it is chucked into a drill motor. With the bore mop keep in mind that if the chamber has imperfections the mop will conform to those imperfections. I will split this into three parts to make sure the photo MB size does not exceed the limit of this site.
  16. In your top photo with the black button and spring clip the aftermarket wheels do not have these. You would have to come up with an alternative way of retaining the wheels. The axle is also around .395" which is not a common U.S. size and is actually 10mm. I would just bite the bullet and get the wheels from Rugged Gear.
  17. Almost looks like the difference in height between a large pistol primer and a large rifle primer. I wonder if the cups got mixed up in manufacture or if they were packaged wrong?
  18. Even though these have brass colored heads I am almost positive they are steel. Stick a magnet on them to make sure.
  19. In all honestly the fact that you talked to someone at Uberti USA does not necessarily mean you got the correct information. The people answering the phones are generally NOT gun people. Most are minimum wage take what we can get in this era of people not wanting to work employees.
  20. I hope not. The STI was a great gun. The Gaucho was an interesting entry level gun but no longer made and no parts. Sort of a Brazilian version of the Colt Cowboy.
  21. The Wonderful Country came up on Prime. A Robert Mitchum western that I had never seen or heard of before. About all the discription said was classic western in Technicolor. The Techicolor was kind of washed out and the story and acting were B western, i.e., not all that good. BUT it did have something really interesting. Very high up in the cast in the opening credits it listed Satchel Page. I had seen him in some old newsreels but never knew he made a movie. (This was his one and only one.) He played a Buffalo Soldier sargeant. It was really neat seeing one of if not the greatest baseball player of all time on the big screen.
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