Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933

I posted this on another thread. These were the prices at last week's Phoenix gun show. No hazmat, no shipping, no limit on how many you could buy.

Yes. They have been in Phoenix for years. I go there quite often as it is not far from my house.

Hell for anyone under 70 how many remember or have heard of Perry Como?

A couple of other things to check. Pull the right hand trigger and then push the hammer as far forward as it will go and measure the firing pin protrusion. Then do the same for the left side to see if the left hand firing pin is protruding the same amount. Also check to make sure the firing pin retainer nut has not loosened. (Arrow.)

Even the Gladiator has a soft heart for dogs.

This is off the Claybusters website. Notice anything? All the powders are large flake powders and all are using far more powder than 14 or 15 grains of a very dense small grain powder. Also notice the PSI for the bottom loads. Very low. So dropping even below those minimums is going to yield very poor results.

As I have posted on several occassions despite what many people think shotgun primers are not freely interchangable. Each brand has slightly different dimensions and burn rates. Noble sports has, in fact, three different burn rates on their 209 primers. The only reason SASS shooters get away with imprecise loading procedures is because we are using loads that are well below the minimum most powder manufacturers recommend. Each reloading website and manual shows shotshell loads grouped by PRIMER BRAND and the loads are different from brand to brand. Comparing Clay Dot to Titegroup is an example. Clay Dot, Clays, Red Dot, etc. are large flaky low density powers that take up a lot of space in the hull. Titegroup is a fine dense power and takes up far less space as the same weight of Clays or Red Dot. What works for Clays will not work for Titegroup. This is from the Noble website. Type 209/684 inox of low power for progressive powders; Type 209/686 inox of medium power for medium powders; Type 209/688 inox of high power for faster burning powders.

Based on everything you have posted and some ideas from other shooters with similar problems my guess is that your powder charge is simply to light. Kinda like guys with primers popping out on their wuss loaded revolver rounds. Smokeless powders require a certain amount pressure to ignite and burn properly. The position sensitive comment really raises a concern. The wad does not have to have any signifcant amount of pressure on it but it should be seated on the powder. Try bumping your powder charge up a grain and making sure the wad is seated on the powder. To see what the wad is doing dump your powder charge and seat the wad but do not put any shot in the hull. Take it out and stick a dowel or something else down into the hull and push on the wad. If it moves there is your problem.

This is part of the problem with diagnosing shotshell problems. You are using Federal Top Gun hulls. Top Gun hulls are not listed on the Hodgdon loading data website. One reason is that a couple of the big reloading sites don't list Top Gun because just in the past couple of years there have been at least three variations of the Top Gun hull. The base wads are different so the interior volume is different. You did not list what wad you are using. Top Guns are straight walled hulls and perform best with wads designed for straight hulls. I clicked on every Federal Hull listed on the Hodgdon website. None showed any Titegroup loads. Hodgdon does show Titegroup data for Winchester AA and Remington STS and Gun Club hulls. These are all tapered hulls with less interior volume. Where did you get the data? Without more data basically the only thing you can do is double check your reloading procedures and if everything is OK toss the Wolff primers and use what works for you.

Explain this in a little more detail. What makes you think the powder isn't being touched off fast enough? Do you have a good clear photo of the primer coating?

Australian lifeguards circa 1930.

Your question is not very clear. Are you saying the primers are not igniting at all? Most modern shotshell primers have the flash hole covered. Photo blue arrow. This is because many modern ball and small grain powers can go down into the flash hole and cause ignition problems. This cover is normal. I have never had a Wolff primer fail to fire but have not had any Wolff shotshell primers for a while and cannot remember. Is the flash hole sealed? If it is not sealed try priming a hull and putting it in the gun and seeing if it goes off. Titegroup is a fairly fine power and may not be compatible with open flash hole primers. Have you tried the primers in a different gun? If you can put primed hulls into different shotguns and none are going off then you have a bad batch of primers.

I would contact Shotgun Boogie. He and several other German shooters have made many trips to the U.S. Boogie now lives in the U.S. and operates a gun tuning store. He lives only a few miles from where EOT takes place. https://sbgwllc.com

Can you ID the imposter?

A little long but cute.