Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933

I do not understand most of what has been suggested so I am just ignoring it. Here is a schematic of a Colt. The loading gate is part #23. The other parts involved with the loading are are #24 which is a plunger, part #27 which is a short stiff spring and part #26 which is a short retaining screw. The stud on the loading gate goes into a hole in the frame. The stud as two flats milled in it that engage the plunger After the loading gate is installed the plunger is dropped into a hole on the bottom of the frame. (It is not visible with the trigger guard installed.) Next goes the spring and then the retaining screw. If the loading gate is coming out of the frame when shooting that means either the flats on the loading gate stud have broken off or the spring is collasped or lost tension. The tension can be adjusted by turning in the retention screw. These are the only four parts so you should be able to figure it out by simply removing and inspecting the parts.

Good luck to Mogollon Monk.

There is not a kit and they are not a drop-in part. I don't know of anyone that has a photo posted and could not find one in my files. But I did find these photos that explain how it is done. The tail of the extractor has to be milled flat and a matching flat made at the back of the bolt cut. Then a flat bottomed hole has to be milled in the bolt for a small coil spring. The spring would go where the arrow is located. The hole has to be carefully bored so you do not pentrate the firing pin hole. 20 years ago when I did my first coil conversion I milled a hole and then cut the bolt in half to check on the depth and how close I was to the firing pin hole. It is not a project for a drill and drill bits.

Just order one. A properly tuned extractor will last for years. If you order two and put the "spare" in a drawer and then move it to a box and then move it to - etc., when the extractor wears out in five, six, seven or more years down the road you won't be able to find the spare anyway.

As is typical everyone that answers answers with a different suggestion. None of which may work for you. The only way to find out for sure is to buy some boxes of various ammo and try them. If you do not already have them you should buy these two tools. They are available from various SASS vendors. These do a good job of helping to ensure that your fired hulls will shuck. They both work WELL. I run all my ammo, reloaded and factory, through the Roger Rapid taper tool at home. Out at the range I drop each round into the SLIX gauge before putting it in my belt. Between the two of these tools the failure to drop ratio goes way down.

That's basically 6 yards for rifle and 4 yards for pistol for "near" and 7 yards and 5 yards for "mid." SASS really is getting old.

This question cannot be answered. What drops freely from my SKB may not drop freely from yours.

If you look at some of the shotgun reloading sites they all say Titewad is a NO NO for 20 gauge. Suitable for 12 gauge only.

Two completely different hulls and you cannot interchange loading data. The AA is tapered internal construction hull. (As is the Remington STS style hull.) The Fiocchi is a Reifenhauser straight internal wall hull. The stack height for an AA hull is going to be to low for a Reifenhauser hull.

I hope the two of you have fun.

Stiring all that chili at the EOT work parties I would have thought you are plenty strong.🤭

I shot a couple of 12s at the last Cowtown match. Unfortunately then they made shoot my rifle and shotgun.

Shot double duelist since at least 2000. The past year or so my left thumb does not always work so I have had to switch to a cross-draw and shoot regular duelist. Once my right thumb quits I will just be a spectator.

My hope is that the thieves do not melt the objects down for the gold and jewels and that they are ultimately recovered.

Much better photo.

Easy, peasy. Put spring on strut. Put on spring retainer. Take a screwdriver (or small deep well socket) with no bit in it and put it over the tip of the strut and push. In this photo the drill bit represents the strut. The retainer is not represented.

By putting an old Vaquero hammer in a New Vaquero you will have created what Ruger sells as the CFDA. (Cowboy fastdraw association.)

Medieval night. King Bill. Awards night. Bill, Ringo and Nuttin.

Poncho Villa shooting his Bisley.

“A spotter?”. Takes two!

No way to tell without a chrono. Guns vary and the velocity out of two identical models can vary by quite a bit.

You have to apply rule 13 or whatever the ROC is calling it these days - common sense. Which guns can be slam fired? Those guns with the feature built into the mechanism. For SASS there are only two - the 97 Winchester and the Colt Lightning and these can be rendered safe just by letting go of the trigger. No SASS legal lever gun has ever come with slam fire. And if modified you would have two problems. One since you cannot hold the trigger back while levering it is the lever that will/would depress the trigger. There would be no way to disable the slam fire once the stage started and you would have an unsafe gun. Two the slam fire would require something like the mechanism shown in Crazy Gun Barney's reply. That is an external mod. It is not an approved external mod and will never be allowed because of number one. Looks like Barney answered while I was typing.

I will guarantee you that they are NOT slam firing. They are all hitting the trigger with their finger. No one is running a slam firing rifle like Lucas MaCain in The Rifleman.

Where did you come up with this? The only SASS legal rifle that can slam fire is the Lightning and how many shooters do you see using them?