Griff
-
Posts
7,347 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Griff
-
-
18 hours ago, Cowtown Scout, SASS #53540 L said:
Well Griff looks like that would take a special run as they only list up to 30 year pin.
...must be why I've never got a 35 year pin... wait... never got a 30 year pin either!
-
1
-
-
3 Years til my 40th anniversary...
-
6
-
-
Not quite the same as being there, but Yul, thanks for the photos and captions.
-
4
-
-
1 hour ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:
Remove grips.
Wipe down with a damp rag with acetone.
Then wipe down with oily rag and reinstall grips.
Most likely you are seeing dried oil.
+1
-
17 hours ago, Hoss said:
on the plus side, pretty day shooting with my Pards.!
Nice to see someone focusing on the important things!
-
Technically, stage design shouldn't give an advantage to anyone except the inherently talented, nimble and athletic. The rest of us have to rely on practice, or if you will... experience & deceit.
Actually sentence two is only there for comic relief. (... Sort of)!
-
1
-
4
-
-
17 hours ago, Matthew Duncan said:
What after market modification or accessory on your reloading press that you found not needed or worth the cost?
The ones I don't have! Surprisingly, (or not), what accessories I installed on one 550, I've also installed on the other.
-
Very cool! Congratulations Non Stop on a beautiful piece of art! Conceived and executed wonderfully.
-
2
-
-
I load 4 grains of Titegroup with a 200 grain round nose in Cowboy 45 Special brass for a relatively light cowboy load. I also prefer to use a 45 Colt sizing die. The 45 ACP has more taper to the case than the Colt. A roll crimp will serve you better whether in a pistol or rifle. I use a RCBS # 18942 for the 45ACP/GAP/Auto Rim.
-
2
-
2
-
-
You can take a while... I had to reload one pistol 3 times to get 5 shots off. Sounds like everyone was happy the ordeal was over... me especially! Last stage of the match... if it'd been the first, I mighta taken the misses...
-
2
-
-
I tried the hand pour method at one time. Speaking for myself, it was too time consuming, too prone to spills, and I found it hard to keep my mold temperature close to optimum. I was given a 10 lb bottom pour, but found I ran out of lead too quickly. I now have a 25 lb Lyman and a 20 lb Lee. The Lee is used exclusively for pure lead RB for my muzzle loading rifle and conicals for my .36 caliber Navies. The Lyman I got about 6 years ago after my 37 year old 20 lb Lyman finally gave up the ghost. (I would've rebuilt it, but new parts were no longer available, or my "Google-fu" failed me). I'm glad I bought the new Lyman, it's a much more user friendly pot. Depending of what I'm concentrating on, or where I am in my projectile inventory, I typically run 1, 2 or 3 molds at a time. My casting technique varies on what the mold material is, whether it's a 1, 2 3, 4 or 6 cavity mold. I generally mix up the molds with ones of different cavity counts. My biggest projectile mold is for a 410 grain .40 cal. it also is a single cavity steel mold, so I seldom cast it alone, generally adding it in as a fill-in while concentrating on either casting a steel mold that yields a 230 grain TC .45 cal 2-cavity mold alongside it, or a steel 4-cavity .30 cal FN. Yes, I much prefer steel molds, they seem to hold a casting temp easier, although take longer to heat up to the optimum temperature.
The Lyman 25 lb pot has s PID temp controller on it and a "warming shelf" to ease in running two molds at the same time. IMO, mold temperature is just as important as lead temp. Getting two different molds running at a temp that keeps corners crisp and doesn't turn the bullets "frosty" is both a little time consuming and relies more on pacing than it does anything else. I don't mind dumping mistakes back in the pot until I start producing good bullets from both molds... Running 3 molds can get quite hectic, and I don't do it very often.
Casting is where one may get their greatest exposure to elevating their lead blood levels... as unless you have a good circulation of fresh air, you're breathing in fumes. Even in an open garage, you need to have a method of directing fumes away from yourself. I have a kitchen oven hood that is vented out thru the roof of my workshop. I'd like to have a window so I could regulate the amount of incoming fresh air better, but, my shop is kinda drafty as it isn't sealed from the outside. It's uncomfortable in both winter & summer, so my casting is usually done during the milder spring & fall seasons.
Good luck with whatever you decide upon... and never fear, there is probably room for a bottom pour AND a ladle pot on your casting bench.
-
1
-
-
I've had a Davis canvas belt with the canvas loops for over 30 years and I like it, but... the canvas stretches to point that they don't hold the shells up in a easy-to-pull position. I have to push the shells up from the bottom of the loops so enough of the shell is above the loop to pull them. Like Widder's, mine is single shell loops, I like my my all-slide better. They've stretched also, but with a strip of leather a the bottom, the shells stay up, easier to grab.
-
Update in progress
We're sorry, this web site is unavailable while an update is in progress.We're sorry, this web site is unavailable while an update is in progress.
-
On 2/22/2024 at 9:00 PM, Texas Maverick said:
This is interesting. Not sure why I am not having any issues doing them together. Mine have always come out looking like new.
Thanks
TM
I get the same results... I don't use citric acid and am just using a ¼ oz of Hornady's "Case Cleaner" and the pins that came with the FART. I think the difference in results might be the water. After tumbling for 2-3 hours, I pour the whole lot in a bucket and run cold water from the garden hose in until the suds are gone, pour the balance off on the lawn, add fresh water until it's clear and then run the pins & cases thru my media separator, put the cases on a towel covered cookie sheet and pop them in the oven at 170º for a ½ hour, let them cool and then into my storage containers (either plastic coffee cans or ice cream buckets), for future loading. I do decap as a first step. For 2 reasons, 1st: the primer pockets are devoid of any carbon buildup; 2nd: the primer pockets are devoid of any carbon buildup. (Not so important for pistol brass, but for my long range rifle brass, I'm a little pickier).
-
1
-
-
On 2/23/2024 at 6:58 PM, Donovan Shoost said:
With that, I have a couple questions. The easier and dumber one is probably whether the Coach Gun (and for that matter, the other firearms) I picked up will be allowed for this game. I thought I read somewhere that it was kosher, but wanted to double check in case it is a no-go.
Yes, those three are very kosher. but, be advised that for the really competitive shooter, they will all be better with a little work. The rifle will be smoother with a little tuning and judicious smoothing of the operating bits... Lighter springs will also be a big help. The pistols can potentially be improved with a look at timing and also lighter springs. The shotgun will shuck empties much better with the chambers polished and the extractors smoothed. Some folks really like the chamber mouths & extractors cut to ease insertion of loaded shells, but... taken to an extreme that can prematurely Lockup problems.
On 2/23/2024 at 6:58 PM, Donovan Shoost said:The second is about getting into CAS this season. As I understand it, I have two SASS clubs nearby (Thurmont and Damascus, I think?) that do at least monthly events, and I was hoping to learn more about what to expect locally. Is this forum a good way to make some connections to folks in those clubs and prepare in advance, or is it easier to reach out to the clubs directly through more traditional channels?
This forum can be very helpful, but... not every member hangs out here. Whenever I get the chance to visit a club, I make contact thru email or phone to the party list as the club contact on this site. that way I can confirm time & place where their shoots are being held.
Randy Saint Eagle has it a little wrong, for cowboy action is only the 2nd most fun you can have with clothes on... The first would be mounted shooting! That is, if you're a horseperson, or wish to become one!
-
1
-
-
10 hours ago, Orient Express said:
Is that overkill?
IMO, yes.
10 hours ago, Orient Express said:Is that even necessary?
Again, IMO, no.
10 hours ago, Orient Express said:How often do you anneal your straight-wall brass?
I've shot 45 Colt in a '73 rifle since 1987 and until recently, never annealed any of it. I still haven't shot that ammo yet... so can't tell you if it makes a difference.
I've sanded down each side of the carriers in each of my toggle-link rifles (2-1873s & 1 Henry) to provide a fair amount of clearance in the mortise and have shot several multi-day matches without bothering to clean between days... (up to 3-day match).
-
3 hours ago, Painted Mohawk SASS 77785 said:
Howdy...I have a Uberti [ also stamped Beretta ] Renegade .45LC...love this rifle
Did they make other Calibers..I'm thinking yes for .38, wondering about 44-40 ?
Cheers 'Mohawk
From blue Book of Gun Values:
BERETTA 1873 RENEGADE SHORT RIFLE Description
.357 Mag. or .45 LC cal., patterned after the Winchester Model 1873 rifle, case colored frame, 20 in. octagon barrel, 10 shot full mag., uncheckered straight grip walnut stock and forearm. Mfg. 2008-2011.
-
1
-
-
3 minutes ago, H. K. Uriah, SASS #74619 said:
Yep, makes sense.
I'll freely admit to not knowing the ins and outs of the category
Me too, still wish I could wear moccasins with my buckskins! Guess I was just thinking there was an 1890 cutoff...
-
1
-
-
My truck gun is a Winchester 94 Trapper in .30-30... more range, greater power, and still able to hold on the 16" gongs @ 300yards... Ok, so it only holds six... if'n I need more... I shoulda went with Capt Burt's plan.
And exactly what's wrong with a pretty "truck gun"?
-
4
-
-
It'd be an interesting added rifle for the Classic crowd! (If 38WCF OR 44WCF).
-
On 2/12/2024 at 11:08 PM, DeaconKC said:
Okay, mulling over trying out FC and if I do, I guess I would use the Magtech brass shotgun shells for the shotgun part. How do these hold up with black powder subs? How does APP work for these?
Part 2, would there be an advantage to using nickel cases with APP?
APP will work in brass shotshells. I loaded my first ones with Goex... but didn't get enough compression and they sorta went "poof" instead of "pow". I can't think of an advantage to using nickel cases, except for identification. I keep my ammo in GI cans and simply put a label on the can to identify what's inside.
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, Mogollon Munk,SASS#303 said:
Damn! Midway was a great cowboy. I will miss him. FIre a shell for me Ethan!
+1!
-
1
-
-
I bought a couple of Colt SAA cams from Peacemaker Specialties & had Boomstick Arms install one of my Colt 2nd Gen 1851s.
-
1
-
-
Congratulations!
-
1
-
Boot Makers
in SASS Wire
Posted
It's been many years since I bought my last pair of Paul Bond boots in Nogales, AZ... but they're holding up well. They're not just a glitzy Hollywood maker.
If your uppers are still in good shape, consider having them resoled. It can be difficult finding a good shop for that also, but... if they fit good, why toss 'em?