Griff

Every time I hear of such nonsense, I'm reminded of a early shoot put on by a club down toward So Texas that decided to throw in a stage that included a main match pistol, rifle, shotgun, a derringer, single shot rifle, rifle caliber rifle, a bow & arrow, knife & hatchet... with the stated intent "to make sure a non club member wouldn't win the match." I don't remember how that worked out for them, but... I haven't entered one of their cowboy matches since. Although I have taken home a couple of their belt buckles at their mounted shoots.

Yes, I bought my 1st '73 in 1987 and have shot BP thru it from the beginning, Lubed with a mixture of Crisco, lanolin & bees wax until S{PG came out. The 45-225-CAV has been my primary BP bullet. I've used Goex, (2f, 3f & Cartridge), Swiss, (3f) and APP (3f), with my best groups with Goex "Cartridge", sadly no longer made

If it were mine to sell: fair would be $1500-2000. If I were the buyer: fair would be $500-800, box, original papers, etc all add value. some value unaltered more than others. What Phantom said.

ROFLMAO!!! You ask about hunting loads on a site dedicated to a sport/game populated by folks who're most often accused of using mouse farts loads that barely make the 20-25' and make steel ring with a "tink". Many of whom think a lofty goal is to have loads so light they can dump 10 rounds out of their rifle in less than 2 seconds. I'm gratified that you received several well reasoned answers. IMNSHO, it's the Colt SAA that's the weak sister in your combo, due mostly to its thin chamber walls, especially the locking bolt cuts. Since you're not adverse to using cast bullets, I recommend Lyman's 4th Ed. Cast Bullet Handbook for load data for both rifle and pistol loads. If you happen to also cast, I can recommend the RCBS 45-225-CAV mold, it casts a truncated cone of about 230 grains with a nice grease groove & crimp groove for use with a BP compatible lube for Goex, In my '73 I need to crimp in the forward part of the crimp groove to keep OAL to around 1.57" to feed thru the rifle. The advantage to APP is that while a BP substitute, it doesn't require a BP compatible lube. Cleaning regime would be the same as Goex, warm water, or your favored mystery oil for BP cleaning. (I believe BP cleaning is easier than smokeless, just more often). While your pistol won't notice so much, using a slower burning powder in the rifle will gain you a few fps in the longer bbl. Stay away from "Ruger or Thompson Center" load data. 14,000 psi in a 45 Colt ain't anything to snicker at. If you consider jacketed rounds, stay away from bullets listed for the 45Mag or the more powerful .452 chamberings as their jackets may prove too stout to allow expansion. There're a few 45 Colt factory loads in the 225gr range that would serve hunting purposes well. While Sierra's 240 JHP has proven accurate in my 45 Colt rifles, I haven't ever found an equivalent cast bullet for more cost effective practice/sighting in purposes. Lastly, I've found Keith style bullets to be poor feeders in my toggle link rifles as the forward driving band tends to catch on the chamber mouth.

Right back atcha!

It was about the time that I cleaned mine, I realized that it was just dirty... it was worn out! All the parts that were supposed to rotate or slide up & down, did so... but sloppily... so much so that it was a real art to get the case lined up in the sizer die. When I asked Dillon's tech service, they told me the handle wasn't supposed to shift left to right, send it back & they'd fix it. Yep, they did that all right! Shipped me back a new 550C!

Yes, the last hundred I loaded 3 weeks ago all went bango, still have 500 of the last 1,000 I bought 50 years ago.

Surely you jest! Think "costume contest"... or at some bigger matches, "working/shooting costume".

Okay, Rifle Reports!

Style points are self-evaluated and awarded... it's what allows one to look at the scoresheet and say... "but, I looked good doin' it!" And labeling someone's equipment choice as "poor", certainly ain't taking into consideration all the myriad reasons folks make their equipment choices. Sometimes, they're predicated on category choice, as certainly I'll agree my 1851 Navies, although legal, would be a less than stellar choice if I shot in an age-based category, Classic Cowboy or B-Western, as there are clearly better choices available to one, not to mention the BP issue. Heck, even in Frontiersman some would argue there are better choices from a purely competitive viewpoint, but... this game isn't entirely about being competitive. How each of us choose to entertain ourselves is truly no one else's concern as long as we are participating legally, ethically and within the bounds of good sportsmanship. If one is on the scoresheet, one has "measurable results". While it may not fit anyone else's standard of performance, there've been times I finished dead last, but more than satisfied knowing that I overcame whatever adversity befell me. Not quitting is a measurable performance. There've been times I finished 1st overall and left unsatisfied, knowing that a particular competitor wasn't there to really measure my performance on that day. (Ok, that's happened infrequently and so long ago that no one here can bear witness to it). But, the point is no less valid.

Yes, but, the style points just aren't there with the '66 or '73. I'd have to guess that you're a bottom third shooter even with the '66 or '73? I know I am.

If you're reading all the replies, it should be obvious that the answer to your question is: It's a Ford vs Chevy vs Chrysler thing. Whether you pick up a Winchester, Marlin or Mossberg is really unimportant, as the real criteria is how they feel in your hands and how they handle for you. The other questions you need to answer are whether you can fill your needs with a carbine, or even a trapper, or do you need the added capacity only a "rifle" provides. My mdl 94 Trappers hold six rounds in the mag, my 20" carbines hold 7, while all of my mdl 94 26" rifles hold 10 rounds of .30-30 ammo. Then when you get that criteria narrowed down, and you've selected the best .30-30 rifle for YOU... you will then have to determine the best bullet for your rifle, in a load that it likes and provides you with your desired accuracy. Things like bullet weight, hardness, nose profile (generally you'll want a flat nose, but there are different profiles for even that), & velocity all affect the shooting experience. Are you a caster, or do you need "store bought" pills? Do you already handload .30-30s for another platform? My honest, brutal opinion is that none of the above should be determined by a popularity contest. There are many "bests". Some vary in minute details, others can vary greatly. Best for me, for you, or anyone else can be nearly identical, or differ wildly, expectations to the contrary are unrealistic.

All it takes are a few materials, some not-so-slight skills, a little time & viola! .40 caliber Volcanic Rifle

When I started shooting BP in the late 1980's it was reload or not shoot. I already had a MEC 600 Jr that I bought used in the mid 1970s to feed my Skeet habit. I'd buy a box of Peter's Blue Magics and reload them... buy another box and reload those... when I had 1,000 hulls, I quite buying any new ones... unfortunately that happened about the same time they quit making them. Since I still like shooting skeet and Blue Magics are (IMO) the very best hulls, I save them for that alone. I enjoy loading, shotshells, metallic cartridges or C&B revolvers... it's all fun and relaxing if you let it be.... Or you can stress out over the costs and time and not enjoy it. Now I buy Winchester LNLR and shoot them up in WB and reload them with BP on a Hornady 336. Quick & easy to crank out a couple of boxes and maintain my inventory of 150 rounds for any match I'm likely to attend. I'll probably keep buying the LNLR even tho' I have a 1,000 or so empties. Even at today's prices for components, rolling my own is less than buying new shotshells at today's prices... when they can be found.

As far as I'm concerned, there ain't one... but would still be interested in learning how others think...

Like any other firearm legal for use in SASS, it needs a bit of "tuning" to be run as fast as possible. The Henry "Hop" is a real thing unless you have a hole in your forward hand for the follower to pass thru, most folks don't. The Henry as well as the Uberti version will be better for a little gunsmithing, tuning if you will. As for they "love BP"... that remains an opinion. They react the same as any other rifle fed BP... Fouling control is job one. The first match I shot mine steel framed Henry in, I didn't get to round eight on the second stage before the fouling jammed the carrier up tight... (45 Colt). While a great BP cartridge it doesn't work well in a rifle, unless you do a few things. I've shot an 45 Colt chambered 1873 in this game since before the short stroke kit made it was the "go to" rifle for champions. Mine is still a factory stroke, but the lever & carrier springs as well as the trigger block safety spring have been replaced with aftermarket springs. I've shot my 1873 successfully with BP since I bought it expressly for that purpose after simply shaving a few thousandths off each side of carrier, to allow for the buildup of fouling on the carrier and the inside of mortise. While I did that with my Henry before running it with BP... I didn't remove enough. After that aborted match debut, I clearanced the carrier quite a bit more and now can run it for a full day's competition. With a C45S carrier in it, it holds 19 of the C45S cartridges in the mag tube. Add in a short stroke kit and it can speed up quite a bit. I don't particularly enjoy that aspect of the game, so don't bother to run fast. I've had fun losing to several guys that shoot a particular match with their cap guns and Henry's for the past few years. Sorta "our own match within a match." None of us are any huge threat to win overall, although several could, and have in years past, won their category, Frontiersman. Frontiersman requires the use of a double or an 1887 lever shotgun, cap & ball revolvers, shot duelist style, all firearms powered by BP. The use of a Henry is a still a handicap to a good Frontiersman. IMO, it you want to go fast, buy an 1873, short stroke it, tune the springs for a light, responsive action... but... if you wanna look good, buy the Henry. To be competitive among Henry users, you'll need to do that action work to it also... the good news is that with the Uberti, the action parts needed for their toggle link actions are the same, as internally, there's nothing except the carrier that differs from the 1866 or 1873.

Possibly the Marlin 336 as it's action is somewhat smoother than the Winchester 94... But, Microgroove rifling and cast have had a tumultuous relationship... that and Winchester is a marginally stronger action and easier to carry in hand (depending on bbl length & where the balance point is). Somewhat subjective in use however. Truly a matter of personal choice. With nearly 30 Winchester 94s in .30-30, my opinion is clearly tainted! But, when my best group with my favorite is ¾" @ 200 yards, it becomes no contest. Plus, why shoot an ugly rifle?

I've obviously been doing it wrong for the 37 years I've shot BP thru my shotguns in this game. I've ALWAYS used AA hulls and plastic shot cup/wads. First the WAA12R, and since that was discontinued, the Claybuster CB-1138-12. Clean up is simple, take the bbls off run hot tap water thru the bbls from the breech, push a nylon brush wrapped in a cotton patch thru once, change to a dry patch & lastly an oiled patch. (Removing the brush at the muzzle end each time to avoid drawing any fouling back thru the bbl). Only time I've had to make more that one swipe thru the barrels after shooting BP is when I've shot a 3-day match... You can spend your time at the match cleaning all the time... me, I'll clean once when I get home. Or... just fire a few smokeless rounds thru after the BP... (But, I still advise cleaning afterwards). There are multiple ways to skin a cat...

But... but... but.... a person might need a reason to turn over their brass inventory after a few dozen years....

Although not often, I do find myself in OR from time to time... now I have at least one more excuse!

Where? Lack of specific info is the reason it took me 3 years to find the location EOT was shot. Otherwise, I'd have been shooting cowboy action longer! Or maybe you don't want others to join you!

I crunched some numbers thru a couple of programs and came up with a 200 gr RFN in front of 9 grs of Unique ought to spit out the end of a 30" bbl at 1422 fps. With a BC around 0.140, & a 100 yd zero, it estimated the bullet would drop 26" +/- @ 200 yds.

I bought my 1st Stoeger in 1986, (coach gun), the 2nd in 1988 (26" bbls), and have shot my last two matches with that 1st one... + many, many matches in between. They've required less work than any other shotgun I've owned. And of my several double guns only one has seen the inside of a gunsmith's shop! And that one ain't a Stoeger!

Yes.

This is the product that I use: ONE SHOT® SONIC CLEAN™ CARTRIDGE CASE SOLUTION Non-toxic and uniquely formulated to clean brass cases. Quickly removes most tarnish, oxidation and carbon buildup. Designed specifically for the Hornady® Lock-N-Load® Sonic Cleaners.™ 32 fl oz. Item #043355 1 Gallon Item #043356 At 40 parts water to one part solution, MSDS is at: chrome-extension://oemmndcbldboiebfnladdacbdfmadadm/https://feeds.brownells.com/userdocs/MSDS/100-031-842_LNL_SONIC_BRASS_SOLUTION_1QT.pdf