H. K. Uriah, SASS #74619

Other than shotgun targets, reactive targets seem to be pretty rare these days. Shotgun last solves quiet problem. Is reloads really a thing anymore? Spotters have to watch closely.

MDF?

Dittos

Let's assume that "caliber" and "cartridge" are the same for purposes of this discussion. That would mean that, if you have one, a rifle in .38 Short Colt would be legal.

Generally speaking, none of my rifles have been slicked up, and I do just fine. Granted, I am not a top tier shooter, but my rifles all seem to work the they way they are supposed to. (A mixture of original Colts, Winchesters, a Marlin some replicas.) The only exceptions to this have been a couple of rifles that I HAD to have an action job done to. The first is an Armi San Marco 92 whose action was so rough out of the box that it was unusable. After I had an action job done to it, I came to feel that my Rossi 92, which I had thought was fine, was a little clunky, so I had an action job done to it as well. By Action Job, I mean smoothing it out to run like an original Winchester, not turned into a race gun. Another gun I had work done to was an early Navy Army imported Uberti 66. It had been "over slicked," in my opinion. The lever safety had been removed, and the hammer spring was so lightened that the hammer fell visually slower than any of my other other toggle link guns and I took it to a local smith to ask if he could return it to "more or less factory" specs. (It's still super smooth) And now it runs really fine. The only other work I've had done is some repair work as needed when things have broken, which is not a common thing to have happen. If you have the talent to compete for the belt buckles and intend to make a run at them, you will probably need the maximum of slicking up. But if you have no aspirations on that, then you probably don't need to have the expense.

I would love to shoot a .22 match, just for it to be something different once or twice a year. Got plenty of guns to choose from.

Mine. Near as I can tell, I dropped a double charge. Foolish carelessness on my part. Whenever I hear of people wanting to hot rod things, on purpose, I cringe. If my sharing my own mistakes can prevent others, it's worth it.

Shoot what the gun is made for. When you load your ammo, load to specs for the cartridge, and make darn sure you don't overcharge. Otherwise, this can happen It just ain't worth messing around with.

I tried running 200 grain RNFP in my 1911. It didn't work right. I still use a 200 grain RNFP in my .45 Colts. In a 1911, I use a 230 grain round nose bullet the same shape as a hardball bullet. It works. Sometimes you gotta use different bullets for different calibers. As much as you might like to use the same for everything, it doesn't always work. Especially if one of them is an autoloader.

Shoot the shotgun left handed. It'll take some practice, but shooting from the other shoulder can be learned.

Don't do that...

Rainmaker reacted with confusion, so let me try to be less confusing. THIS is a Volkswagen Volkswagen, the company, stopped selling them in the USA in 1977. They then stopped the convertible version in 1979. That was the end of the VW CAR, even though the COMPANY lives on. Yeah, yeah, they kept making them in Mexico for a couple more decades, but the ones sold in the US were all made in Germany. My point is that the above picture is of a Volkswagen. If it doesn't look like that, it's not a Volkswagen, per se, it's some other car that is made by Volkswagen. In other words, I am being ludicrously pedantic.

Best way to deal with any kind of a revolver reload is as follows... Obtain a S&W top break revolver (real or replica). When it comes time to reload, break open the gun, ejecting the empties. Place new cartridge(s) in empty chambers as needed. Close and shoot.

Well, since VW hasn't sold hardtop VW's since 1977 or convertibles since 1979 (In this country at least), it could be argued that all of them are wrong.

Which rule change is that?

My 93 is serial number A195xx (1895) My 97s are E442xxx (1909 30") E609xxx (1914 Black Diamond Trap) and E857xxx (1930 20", possibly a police gun as the stock is stamped WPD)

Of course, the only problem with all of this is that Red Dot is Unobtainium right now.

My dad came up with a load of 16.4 grains for shooting trap. It's a great load, and still use it for that, but it's a bit heavy for SASS use, especially in a 19" Parker where it kicks like a mule. I read somewhere that 10 grains of Red Dot was a good light load, so I tried that. It's a mouse fart that is quite honestly, too embarrassingly light. So I upped to 12 grains. This has the needed punch, AND still has mild recoil.

I can drive a standard. Er... A stick... But when I got a rental car over there, I purposely requested, and paid extra for, an automatic. Driving on the left side of the road was fairly simple to master, but I didn't want to mess with left handed stickshift at the same time!

That is one of my sometimes desires, to have a Lightning made by everyone who made/makes one. At the moment, all I have are Colts, (All three sizes) and AWA's. I will soon have a Taurus that has been worked on by Lassiter. That leaves me with having to obtain a Uberti, USFA, Beretta and Pedersoli. But when I look at the rarity/price/quality of some of these, I wonder...

I've been to the UK. Speedometers in cars and road signs are all in miles (And yards!) for example. In conversations with the locals, they would switch back and forth seamlessly, and most claimed they preferred Imperial. The weather was in Celscius, but I was told ovens are in Farenheit. (I can't spell either one!) Weights are expressed in units of stone, which is oh so many pounds. In other words, the UK is officially metric, but the common people prefer the normal system. (Based on observation.)

We goofed. After the War, the US, UK, the Commonwealth (And maybe a few others) still used real measurements. When we won, we should told the rest of the world to follow suit. They would have.

Interesting.... I went here... https://winchestercollector.org/dates/ CLL5586 returns a date of manufacture of 1897 Taking the letters off gives the same result. Turning the LL into 11 gives a date of 1900. I think those L's are L's not 1.s Ones, back in the day, would have possibly looked like an upside down L, but not like an L. Whatever you have, it's an early one. I'd get a Cody letter, sending them a photo of the serial number to be sure.

I love vague non specific possibilities.

To all my fellow New England pards, Pete's Gun and Tackle in Hudson, NH is going out of business. He has decided to retire. Everything but guns and ammo is on clearance, and he shuts some time in mid to late march. I was there the other day and found a bargain on a Hopkins and Allen single shot shotgun. He's fast running out of inventory, and has a little bit left that would be of cowboy shooter interest, and still a good about of stuff that may be of more generic interest. Amongst stuff that may be of Cowboy interest are a couple of Remington and a Fox Sterlingworth SxS and various single shot rifles. He also still has a lot of single action revolvers, Rugers, .22's (mostly Rugers) and Cap and Ball guns in the case. I've gotten a lotta interesting stuff from him over the years, including my original 73, a 92 with a large loop, a .22 Colt, a 9422, and the list goes on. If you are familiar with the place, give it one more visit while you can. He's got some primers... Tell him Kevin mentioned it. Maybe he'll give me a discount when I go back! Well, probably not,.